Rear arches
- Thread starter AH.K10
- Start date
You can flare the arches with arch roller but I'd say that would be maximum of 1" maybe little more, but more you flare uglier it looks.
Edit. Wouldn't bit more tyre strech help your problem?
Edit. Wouldn't bit more tyre strech help your problem?
chance tyres? in what sence? put up some pics mate
13 i quess, and how wide?
195/65/13 on 7j? I really cant see you succeeding. I have managed to pull arches with arch roller quite a bit but this seems to be a chalange
OP
OP
AH.K10
K10/K11
Yeh thats the ones. So what do you think the best tyre size will be for the wheels to fit the car? Thanks for the replies
It really does depend on your offset. I have 7x13 et-7 rims with 175/50/13 on the rear and have still had to add arches. You could try 165's and some serious camberYeh thats the ones. So what do you think the best tyre size will be for the wheels to fit the car? Thanks for the replies
you need to cut the beam bend it and weld it back together. try willtheyfit.com to compare your size now compare to some different options
still waiting for pics. I have managed to flare the arches quite a bit on s12
before
after
still waiting for pics. I have managed to flare the arches quite a bit on s12
before
after
Looks doable with some effort
Ok. Be carefull with it. Take your time is te most important an clear the arches from the road dirt and debri from the inside otherwise you get **** result.
This is what i usually print for the people i rent mine to. have a read
Go onto: goo.gl/xbeNg to see very useful Youtube video.
Firstly check the arch for rust, rusty arch will not roll very well at all, even slight corrosion will have an effect as it doesn’t bend quite the same as good steel would.
Next remove all screws/bolts holding the inner arch plastic if applicable. Then clean up the inside of the arch, behind the lip as it will probably be full of mud and road debris. A good stiff brush is usually enough. Once clean it’s a good idea to paint something like seam sealer, under seal grease or oil over this area as once the lip is folded over will be become a water trap without anything there.
Attach the arch roller to the hub with all bolts or studs just like you would with wheel and position the rolling wheel against the lip. You may need to jack up the axle so the roller will be in contact with the arch all the way across. It’s a good idea to use a hot air gun here to warm the paint up to try and prevent it splitting as it’s being rolled. Don’t warm it too much or the paint will go too soft.
Now add a little pressure by winding the arm towards the arch and gently move it back and forth. As mentioned before, the whole arch does not need to be rolled, just the area where the tyres might make contact – on the rears that’s just above the tyre but the fronts may need more for turning.
As the lip folds you will feel it becomes easier to move the arm, add more pressure and continue (and keep applying heat if you’re using it). Keep checking the angle of the rolling wheel and adjusting as necessary, it needs to be at an angle to the direction the lip will be folded.
When finished check the fitment of your wheels, if this has not created enough room then you need to move on to arch flaring, which is basically pushing the arch outwards with the roller. This requires a bit more effort and is not as easy to do a neat job, as you will be working with a double thickness (or more at the back) of steel where the lip is folded and having to stretch it.
Go onto: goo.gl/xbeNg to see very useful Youtube video.
Firstly check the arch for rust, rusty arch will not roll very well at all, even slight corrosion will have an effect as it doesn’t bend quite the same as good steel would.
Next remove all screws/bolts holding the inner arch plastic if applicable. Then clean up the inside of the arch, behind the lip as it will probably be full of mud and road debris. A good stiff brush is usually enough. Once clean it’s a good idea to paint something like seam sealer, under seal grease or oil over this area as once the lip is folded over will be become a water trap without anything there.
Attach the arch roller to the hub with all bolts or studs just like you would with wheel and position the rolling wheel against the lip. You may need to jack up the axle so the roller will be in contact with the arch all the way across. It’s a good idea to use a hot air gun here to warm the paint up to try and prevent it splitting as it’s being rolled. Don’t warm it too much or the paint will go too soft.
Now add a little pressure by winding the arm towards the arch and gently move it back and forth. As mentioned before, the whole arch does not need to be rolled, just the area where the tyres might make contact – on the rears that’s just above the tyre but the fronts may need more for turning.
As the lip folds you will feel it becomes easier to move the arm, add more pressure and continue (and keep applying heat if you’re using it). Keep checking the angle of the rolling wheel and adjusting as necessary, it needs to be at an angle to the direction the lip will be folded.
When finished check the fitment of your wheels, if this has not created enough room then you need to move on to arch flaring, which is basically pushing the arch outwards with the roller. This requires a bit more effort and is not as easy to do a neat job, as you will be working with a double thickness (or more at the back) of steel where the lip is folded and having to stretch it.
