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PollyMobiles Rebuild

hoodedreeper

Ex. Club Member
Do you run an anti roll bar on either front or back? I can't see one on the front in your pictures and would usually search a thread but yours is 192 pages now!

Many thanks

Kirkynut

You can see the front ARB (left side is black) in this photo

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this old downpipe exhaust hanger bar have always been an annoying issue for me.
it hangs too low,
too soft & floppy moving around considering the backbox is now on solid bobbins and the engine mounts are much firmer,
and the biggest problem is trying to wiggle it past the sway bar & lower brace during removal, I'd have to unbolt the swaybar & brace every time which is a PITA πŸ™„

IMG_20210324_192542.jpg


after much thought I decided to fabricate a rigid subframe for the exhaust to sit on top supported by a rubber bobbin.
cut & drilled the flat bar.

IMG_20210324_210555.jpg


bent to shape

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welded solid

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fitted

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comparison of the old low hanging rod vs new higher subframe with bobbin

IMG_20210325_181333.jpg


plenty of ground clearance, the lower brace is definately the lowest part of the car

IMG_20210325_200007.jpg
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went for a test drive and there's no vibration or knocking so the new frame & rubber bobbins doing their job well
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've been curious to temprarily eliminate my powersteering to see if it'll improve the sloppy 5deg deadzone at the center of the steering
and if it'll improve mpg & HP from reduced parasitic losses?

Manual steering racks on ebay are a silly £100+ or £30 but would have to collect in person 200miles away during this pandemic 😬

decided to grab this cheap PAS on ebay for Β£30 posted next day and convert it into manual.

IMG_20210325_204411.jpg


the rack is #49001 1F715

IMG_20210325_204432.jpg


same as my current PAS rack. has the green plastic limiters

IMG_20210325_215055.jpg


stripped the un-used bits off.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
//measured the 49001-1F715 rack travels 129mm over 3.125 turns lock-lock.
//that's actually less than my current 69001-1F715 which does 140mm over 3.375 turns πŸ€”
//so I guess the initial 49001 or 69001 # relates to the length of the rack tube relative to the casing?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Correction:
actually I remeasured the 49001-1F715 rack without the inner tie-rods attached and the full range is 140mm over 3.375 turns.

exactly the same ratio (41.48mm per rev) as every single PAS rack I've ever used including:
49001-4F100
49001-1F715
69001-1F715

IMG_20210325_221905.jpg


next step is to strip the internal apart, weld the rotary valve/torsion bar pinion shaft solid to eliminate the sloppy feel and then remove the piston off the steering rack so there's no hydraulic resistance as it moves.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
checking the OEM GTIR pads fitted in the recent year and they are wearing really well and much more durable than the previous diamond black predators :)

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front.jpg


the OEM rear pads also wear very little

IMG_20210326_201313.jpg
rear.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
sick of pumping up the front left tyre every week cos the tyre valve was leaking for a while,

so I popped down to the local Kwikfit to get it fixed.
good time for another photo underneath 😁

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very nice of them to say it's free :D(y)
I just had to give em a 5 star review on google
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Converting the power steering rack into a manual rack,
first I welded up the ends of the obsolete hydraulic fittings to keep dirt out

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used this 5mm flat bar & spanner to unscrew the end cap of the hydraulic rack

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to remove the cap that's covering the pinion shaft nut, I trimmed this tool

IMG_20210327_142045.jpg
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but the 4 dimples in the soft aluminium is simply rounding off πŸ™„

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so I decided to just cut two big slots across the whole cap to increase surface area and use the flat end of the tool, which worked

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to remove the cap which presses the rack against the pinion gear, I made this tool

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removed the pinion from the other end

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drilled the rotary valve off

IMG_20210327_175058.jpg


welded the two shafts together to eliminate the mushy 5deg feel near dead-center inherent on all power steering racks

IMG_20210327_175719.jpg
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removed the piston seal so the rack can move freely without any hydraulic/pneumatic resistance

IMG_20210327_172705.jpg


rack converted to manual ready to try out someday 😎

IMG_20210327_192218.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Creality Ender 3 v2 Printer

I've been looking for a 3D printer upgrade for awhile now since my old 2015 machine is noisy, has a small platform, limited to low temp PLA since the heated bed was broken for yrs and a lot has changed in the evolving industry.

The ender 3 v2 caught my attention last yr cos it's a very popular machine, large heated bed, very quiet motor drivers and at a very affordable price.

last year it was at £240-270 which was kinda pricey but recently in march it went down to £200 which I was more comfy with and quickly brought it 😁

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4days after coming from china it finally arrived :D
bits all nicely arranged & labelled

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first issue I noticed was the platform didn't move smoothly, it seemed to bind every 5cm like 1 of the wheels were flat spotted πŸ€”
that's not ideal for a crisp accurate motion

IMG_20210331_192535.jpg


removed the rolling platform and noticed the plastic roller wheels are slightly deformed/marked probably from being stored under constant tension for long periods

IMG_20210331_192946.jpg
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removed all the wheels and it's a good thing I have a mini-lathe to remachine those 45deg edges perfectly round & smooth.

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now it slides sooooo much smoother 😎

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the big heated bed rated at 220w 24volts

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assembling the vertical beams, keeping aligned with a square edge

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wasn't happy with this rectangle block for mounting the z-axis motor cos it had a noticeable 5deg taper (easier to release off injection mould) which made the lead screw sit 5deg off πŸ™„

IMG_20210331_212725.jpg


so I sanded the sides squarely to make it sit parallel with the vertical beams so it won't bind

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close look at the small hot end, the heatsink doesn't look very effective with such thick fins and small surface area,
many ppl complained about the noisy fan needed to cool it

IMG_20210331_215447.jpg


fans are an odd 24v which might be tricky to replace

IMG_20210331_215452.jpg


the Creality v4.2.2 board features silent stepper drivers, 32bit chip with bigger memory able to utilise more of the Marlin firmware features, comes with a big colour interface and can be added with an auto levelling sensor

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all assembled 😎(y)

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turned it on:
the hot-end cooling fan is soo noisy & always on and whenever the PSU gets warm and turn on it's own fan it's even louder! πŸ™„
there's 4 fans which all needs either tuning down or replacing.

but the stepper motors are sooo super quiet in comparison. :cool:
and the print accuracy quality is simply superb :love:

IMG_20210331_232450.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
1st big thing I printed was another solid bushing for the spare steering rack I recently converted from PAS to Manual.

Settings at a faster default speed compared to my older machine, I'm soo impressed at how fast, responsive & consistantly accurate this printer moves πŸ˜ƒ

IMG_20210401_225422.jpg


the finish is amazing :love:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The PSU fan is annoyingly loud & kicks in very regularly so it's time to remove & fix this

IMG_20210402_220424.jpg


it's a 350w regular PSU putting out 24v.
interesting that the printer just uses 1 of the 3 available terminals

IMG_20210402_215903.jpg


this small thin fan cools the hot mosfets attached to the alloy casing and the smaller components like the transformers etc

IMG_20210402_220924.jpg


it's a 12v fan which can easily be replaced with other quieter PC fans.
notice the fan is 60mm while the air opening is just 50mm πŸ€”

IMG_20210402_220932.jpg


hmm spot something wrong here?
the Meanwell PSU casing has exhaust vents at the opposite end to the fan inlet whereas the black steel enclosure Creality made to contain the PSU is missing these vent holes! πŸ™„

IMG_20210402_223959.jpg


just look at how restrictive these mismatched vent holes are choking the poor fan

IMG_20210402_224052.jpg


a better look at how bad the holes are.
the fan is 60mm
the PSU hole is 50mm
the Creality hole is just 45mm AND missing an exit hole so there's nowhere for heat to escape! 😬
no wonder it gets hot and frequently triggers the temperature controlled fan to spin faster πŸ™„

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I marked & cut out the ful 60mm holes and exhaust holes

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I even added a spare fan controller to help tune the fan speed to a less annoying frequency

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that works sooo much better & bareable now.
only the screaming hot-end fan left to sort out next
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the odd hidden rattling wires within the dash is extremely annoying every day so during this bank holiday weekend it's time to strip the dash out, reorganise & secure this rats nest of wiring 😬

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it tested my patience but I managed to neaten it all

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all back together

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went for a test drive tonight and wowsa it's superbly quiet & luxurious to drive her with no distracting rattles or squeaks :love:😎

it's actually quite deceptive cos I became accustomed to the noise, rattles & vibrations as a way of sensing the cars speed over the years.
so even though I'm taking a fast countryside corner at my usual 60 speed and the speedo shows 60 and my body tenses like normal, it didn't seem that fast anymore due to the missing rattles, shakes etc

similar to how an old, loud, shaking, light, agile, small car screaming at 60 tends to feel a lot faster/engaging/exciting than a modern, quiet, silky smooth, big & heavier car at the same speed & corner
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
this old downpipe exhaust hanger bar have always been an annoying issue for me.
it hangs too low,
too soft & floppy moving around considering the backbox is now on solid bobbins and the engine mounts are much firmer,
and the biggest problem is trying to wiggle it past the sway bar & lower brace during removal, I'd have to unbolt the swaybar & brace every time which is a PITA πŸ™„

View attachment 74209

after much thought I decided to fabricate a rigid subframe for the exhaust to sit on top supported by a rubber bobbin.
cut & drilled the flat bar.

View attachment 74210

bent to shape

View attachment 74211View attachment 74212

welded solid

View attachment 74213

fitted

View attachment 74215View attachment 74216

comparison of the old low hanging rod vs new higher subframe with bobbin

View attachment 74214

plenty of ground clearance, the lower brace is definately the lowest part of the car

View attachment 74217View attachment 74218View attachment 74219

went for a test drive and there's no vibration or knocking so the new frame & rubber bobbins doing their job well
With that 'bobbin' A/V mount connected directly to the exhaust pipe, it is going to cook the rubber VERY quickly Paul!! :0( I give it a few days at most!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
With that 'bobbin' A/V mount connected directly to the exhaust pipe, it is going to cook the rubber VERY quickly Paul!! :0( I give it a few days at most!

so far so good from normal driving. the real test will be next time I take her on trackdays & push her, that'll definately heat stress the mount.
even if it cooks on track, it's really easy to replace
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
popped round to visit me local m8 Craig for a good long catchup and assess the rust hole on his R33 Skyline that needed fixing before it can pass MOT

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looking under, I found the hole but surprised to see that both rear sills have been patched over before but BONDED on! :oops: πŸ€”
and the patch ain't a good protected steel either cos the passenger side plate is rotten πŸ™„

I could've welded a small plate over that hole just to pass MOT (little difficult to access with welder cos the side skirts are stuck/blended to the bodywork) so he can move this car to work on the other 4 cars (and then it can be fixed proper at a later date) but looking rearwards I saw a bigger issue

IMG_20210404_150957.jpg


this thick double skinned inner sill serving as the jacking point and suspension subframe bracket mount is seriously rusty/flaking and very likely why it failed MOT 😬

IMG_20210404_150949.jpg


that is a much more serious big job I can't do on a driveway πŸ’©

so we had a deep chat bout the various options/scenario around his circumstances ranging from either:
- stripping it for parts and focus more on his other favourite R33 or
- storing both SORNd skylines in shipping containers so he can fix the other two more important daily cars or
- send the rusty skyline to a repair shop he knows to both slowly repair, store for awhile and free up space in his garage to work on the other cars (likely choice)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the left side dash lighting has blown and I don't have any spare bulbs left but I do have some bits of white LED strips remaining

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so I wired them in for a whiter lighting that'll last a long time

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that's better

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Before fitting the non-PAS rack I'd have to remove the hydraulic systems, pump & belt but looking online it's hard to find a non-PAS idler pulley. making one from scratch would be a PITA.

Instead of spending more money on finding & buying the idler pulley & new shorter belt, I already have a spare PAS pump so I decided to strip out the pump mechanism and simply running the bare pulley spindle as an idle pulley and keep using the PAS belt & tensioner 😎

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filled with oil and both ports capped off

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Just looked at parts of this blog in more detail for the first time as whilst I have been a lingerer on here for years, whilst not a member I've only seen bits and bobs.

I used your index to look at the bits that interest me most, so thank you for taking the time to create that!

You've done so much to this over a long period of time, most people would have got bored of the car a decade ago!

I bet you've taught yourself loads of knowledge and skills!

How many people don't get it and ask you why you spent so much time and money on what they perceive to be an old worthless car?

I read with interest about your BC Racing coilovers and how they can be set to be comfortable on the road. I had Bilstein Streetlines on a Nova GTE years ago and they were harsh!

Kirkynut
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just looked at parts of this blog in more detail for the first time as whilst I have been a lingerer on here for years, whilst not a member I've only seen bits and bobs.

I used your index to look at the bits that interest me most, so thank you for taking the time to create that!

You've done so much to this over a long period of time, most people would have got bored of the car a decade ago!

I bet you've taught yourself loads of knowledge and skills!

How many people don't get it and ask you why you spent so much time and money on what they perceive to be an old worthless car?

I read with interest about your BC Racing coilovers and how they can be set to be comfortable on the road. I had Bilstein Streetlines on a Nova GTE years ago and they were harsh!

Kirkynut

Thanks Kirkynut! 😁 πŸ₯°(y)

Yeah the index & spec page really comes in handy for finding specific info in this huge blog. It needs updating badly πŸ˜…

A lot has indeed happened which results in a refined Kassandra & refined Pollyp and proud of sharing the journey πŸ˜‡

lots of ppl certainly don't understand my passion, circumstances, methodology, background, goals or philosophy but I just carry on perserveering, doing my own thing and share my findings for those who might find it useful.

I used to run the Streetline kit which was ok generally but the dampening was too stiff during fast bump & fast rebound.
The BC in comparison is soo versatile & well controlled dampening when set correctly.
comfy ride on bumpy roads when at full soft for daily use
firm ride & controlled body movement when at full hard on track
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with the fan controller silencing the PSU, it's time to neaten the wiring up

IMG_20210406_210227.jpg


looks like the bare minimum amount of thermal paste was used on the hot MOSFETs

IMG_20210406_210309.jpg


slots were cut in the casing for the fan wiring to pass through and mount the fan controller on the side.
fresh thermal paste & pads added between the MOSFET & case should help them cool better

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not impressed with this rats nest of wires over the control board which will affect it's cooling

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the hot-end fan (left) has less blades, larger area and louder than the board cooler fan (right) which has more smaller & steeper blades, smaller area but slightly quieter.
so I swapped them over

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wiring is now much neater and should help keep the board cooler

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the next mod is to add a 24v fan controller to the screaming hot-end/board fans
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the alloy cap on the steering rack needed sealing up. Initially tried to machine a bung to weld onto the existing screw cap but the TIG weld went horribly wrong and once again I got angry at how effing slow & crap I am at it πŸ™„πŸ˜€

IMG_20210409_201155.jpg


I just need a simple cap to cover it, even duck tape it.
but then realised I got a friggin 3D printer! πŸ˜…
modelled & printed a new cap in 15min and it worked ffsπŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ

IMG_20210409_213513.jpg
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to lock the tensioner I tried hammering the soft alloy casing against the thread with a chisel but didn't hold it exactly where I wanted, so I ended up drilling and inserting a lock pin through the top

IMG_20210409_230137.jpg


ready to strip out the PAS & fit the manual rack tomorrow 🀞
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
on my bday I ripped out the power steering systems

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comparing my 1998 preface pump (left) to the spare facelift pumps (right) they unfortunately have different mounting geometry πŸ™„

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so I'll have to just remove the pump mechanism off this existing pump.
notice the preface pump shaft uses roller bearings whereas the smaller facelift pumps use plain bearings :unsure:

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filled with ATF and capped off

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removing the rack with both tie-rods attached was a PITA!
I had to remove 1 tie-rod in order to squeeze it out from above.
both racks are the same part# and same rack geometry.

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installing the new rack without the tie-rods makes it a bit easier

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leaves a bit more roomin the left side of the bay now

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started her up for a test run.
1st thing I noticed was a loud clunking while stationary and exerting large force left to right, can see the pinion shaft/steering column joint clunking up/down 2mm.

thinking back, it seems to be caused by removing this rotary valve (but I didn't reattach it) where the bottom edge of the casing (circled red) was actually involved in preventing the shaft from moving downwards (blue arrow) when steering left due to the spiral pinion gear acting like a screw thread.

IMG_20210327_160941.jpg


so by leaving the rotary valve casing off, when the car is stationary and I steer hard right, the ball bearing at the end of the shaft works as normal in resisting the shaft from 'pulling' upwards.

but as soon as I turn hard left, the pinion gear wants to 'push' the whole shaft downwards and without the support of the missing rotary valve the ball bearing at the end of the shaft actually 'pops/clunks' out of it's socket and it's the steering universal-joint bolted to the splined end of the shaft which is preventing it from fully popping out 😬 oopsy

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anyway, went out to see how it feels.

at low 30-40mph speeds it felt like normal steering effort & same wiggling response (due to soft tall sidewalls).

high speed cornering above 50mph is where the benefits are very noticeable (especially for trackdays).
steering response around the dead-center is now immediate.
steering weight increases with speed so it felt quite chunky, direct, involving (good) but it made her handling seem twitchy/nervous (bad).
whilst I'm exerting lots of muscles holding the steering angle I could feel the rear-end become quite light/sensitive to my every input, which certainly makes me more nervous in trusting her handling 😬

it's as though the torsion-bar in the PAS rack is dampening/cusioning my inputs along with obviously reducing the effort required, both resulting in smoother cornering πŸ€”

the biggest downside is the insanely heavy effort required during 0-5mph steering (parking in my tiny garage, T-junctions, 3p-turns), not helped by the clunking pinion shaft. I've decided this is actually unbareable to me for daily use πŸ₯΅πŸ˜©

was an interesting brief test but guess I'll be reverting it all back to PAS tomorrow πŸ˜…
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Is it worth trying a larger steering wheel? Less caster? I'm not sure what your caster is set at, or even just pumping up the front tyres some more?
naa I like he feel & size of the current oem wheel.
caster is standard.
tyres are already near 40psi max pressure.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
6hrs later and the power steering is back on.

inserting the 4 large fine-thread bolts for the rack mounts blindly was a big PITA cos it didn't wanna engage.

the top right bolt was especially hard to get going, but once I felt it bite and began tightening, it got tighter only 1/2 way and probably cross threaded ffs!

nothing I can do to fix it so I just added oil and continued wrenching it really hard till it finally clamped the bracket to the bulkhead.
gonna be a pain to remove & repair that bolt next time so it'll probably be when the engine gets taking out someday.

IMG_20210411_194253.jpg


cba to realign the wheels till tomorrow πŸ˜“
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
A local m8 Shaun needed a fan blade printing for this motorcycle radiator fan motor

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I modelled the new fan

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printed this 180mm fan on my printers 220x220mm base and 3hrs later it turned out perfectly 😍

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fitted and worked brilliantly :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wanted to fit a rubber cusion between the center beam & chassis (like originally) to reduce some vibrations. so I removed the center beam.
the modded downpipe mount made removal soo much easier now

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the new downpipe rubber mount still intact

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cos I welded an m10 washer onto the old holes, I can't re-use the original bolts

IMG_20210417_141449.jpg


so I machined them down to 10mm to fit the new hole

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sandwich some rubber pieces inbetween them

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I also had to cut out the bracket that joined the lower brace to the center beam cos the beam has now shifted downwards

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overall the reduction is very minimal but helpful.
there's still that annoying rattle behind the glovebox that needs tracking down tomorrow
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Those exhaust mounts look the same as ones that get used on minis, I've found that there are some bigger diameter, but thickness remains the same, mounts made for morris 1100s or ado16 if you find you need a sturdier mount.
I thick it was a Mackay rubber part.
yeah I believe these are normally for mini's
I'll see how they stand up to trackdays before upgrading em further
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
haven't done a video for few months now,
So with the new interior, removed glovebox cos I was still trying to find this annoying rattle & refined exhaust I went for a quick blast through the countryside to capture fresh footage with the sharper gopro & mic


and captured some useful datalogs


still couldn't find the rattle that resonated loudly at 2500rpm near the A-pillar 😀
this morning I narrowed it down to this front wing rubbing the A-pillar and the main cause is the Sony headunit cover rattling loosely, so I wedged some paper behind it and most of the noise is gone. still a tiny rattle left but it's less annoying now

went for a cruise through the sunny yorkshire moors too :cool:

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can clearly see the 3-4 different shades of grey on kassandra here lol

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