Oil overfill: potential problems?

[CMF_mike004]

The oil warning light flickered on on my 2001 Micra Activ 1.0 this morning. The dipstick was very low. Just a patch at the very bottom of the dipstick.

I didn't have any oil at home, so I drove 1/2 a mile to the nearest garage and bought some 15/40 oil.

I made an elementary mistake. I poured 1 litre in and then checked the dipstick. Of course, it was still low. So, I poured another 1 litre in.

The car started up and drove OK with no problems. But now I think the oil is too high -- the disptick level is 1 inch above maximum!

* Is this a serious problem? Or is it safe to drive it home from work 20 miles before draining to get the right oil level?

I bought the car 3 weeks ago. It is not leaking oil and shows no evidence of burning oil as far as I can see.

Mike

 

[CMF_frank2]

mike

i doubt you,ll do any damage, the crank will probably be dipping into the oil now, just keep the rev,s down eh

frank

 

[CMF_mike004]

frank2 WROTE:

"mike

i doubt you,ll do any damage, the crank will probably be dipping into the oil now, just keep the rev,s down eh

frank

Thanks, Frank. Looking on the web, there are scary stories about the oil ending up in the cylinders if you overfill.

Do I need to drain the oil down now, or will the level dip naturally over a few weeks or so?

Mike

 

[CMF_frank2]

mike

1" is way too much, i think some of the "splash" will make it,s way out of the crank-case breather

frank

 

[CMF_sarge3uk]

drain it i had this on mine.i put 3litres after servicing it and it was ok for a while then the level went up, next thing i knew my car was smoking and spitting flames drove to work drained the oil and is right as rain now,

if you have a cat on it will do damage so im told but mine is fully decates so no worrys

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

Having too much can be as bad as not enough, the oil can froth and get aerated. Works well in your cappuccino though.

A good idea when buying a new vehicle is to do a major service yourself, so you know it has a new oil and filter and the right amount of fresh oil. I bought a new (used K11) Micra last week so I'll be doing that, once I can get the wheels off!

 

[smidge]

on my first car i accidently overfilled my car (filled it on a hill, false reading.. duh..) with oil and the only problem i got was fouled plugs.. drain a little as soon as you can, and if you're feeling game i'd be checking your spark plugs

 

[CMF_deNs]

DeepFraught WROTE:

"A good idea when buying a new vehicle is to do a major service yourself, so you know it has a new oil and filter and the right amount of fresh oil.

I wouldn't exactly call changing oil + filter a major service, but you're right in saying it's a good idea to replace at the very least, oil and filter when you buy a used car.

---dens

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

You would know a lot more from major service, but those are the few things relevant to this thread.

e.g. You might benefit from major service by confirming there isn't an ass clown hiding in your muffler, but that wasn't relevant to oil overfill.

 

[CMF_turbo march-rolling shell]

DeepFraught WROTE:

"I wouldn't either =P<BR>If you're going to quote, you should read it too!<BR><BR>It's good to see every forum has someone doing the thankless job of adjudicating on right and wrong

bahaha... this coming from someone that has a massive post total of... 8

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

You *can* read! pat on back.

 

[CMF_fred]

lol!!!!

 

[CMF_turbo march-rolling shell]

DeepFraught WROTE:

"You *can* read! pat on back.

yeh.. some are quicker then others

 

[CMF_mike004]

deNs WROTE:

"DeepFraught WROTE:

"A good idea when buying a new vehicle is to do a major service yourself, so you know it has a new oil and filter and the right amount of fresh oil."</div>

I wouldn't exactly call changing oil + filter a major service, but you're right in saying it's a good idea to replace at the very least, oil and filter when you buy a used car.

---dens

Thanks. Maybe I should have done this immediately when I bought the car.
The car has now developed a noisy transmission. And if I go over 50mph, there is vibration under the drivers seat...

Mike

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

If you don't have service logs, it's not expensive to replace the transmission oil.

Check the seat rail bolts in the cabin, rubber exhaust hangers under the body, also engine mounts have the rubber connection. Like the knee-bone rhyme, tranmission/engine/body are connected and vibration can be passed along.

(joke) The vibration under the driver's seat may be a custom modification, was your previous owner a Dykes-on-Bikes entrant? (winking smiley face)

 

[CMF_slugman42]

Dykes on bikes...although interesting in a twisted way
How does this relate to an overfilled engine ?
I love this forum
:-}

 

[CMF_mike004]

DeepFraught WROTE:

"If you don't have service logs, it's not expensive to replace the transmission oil.

Check the seat rail bolts in the cabin, rubber exhaust hangers under the body, also engine mounts have the rubber connection. Like the knee-bone rhyme, tranmission/engine/body are connected and vibration can be passed along.

I was thinking maybe I had screwed up the main bearing/big end by driving the car when the oil light was lit.

Mike

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

From past experience in other engines I've found the oil light is triggered by a pressure sensor in the head, or top of the block. e.g. when you start up, it is momentarily lit until oil pressure builds.

I wouldn't think the bottom end would be starved of oil first, and rather than a vibration it would probably sound a lot more sinister.

I had a friend rebuild an engine thinking main bearing problem based on the sound under load. Turned out the diesel injector service he payed for, was actually a swift trick of blocking the EGR to reduce the smoke. Dribbling injectors causing detonation then sounded like impending main bearing failure.

If it ain't broke... it can still be modified

 

[CMF_deNs]

The oil light i'm pretty sure is a < 5psi oil pressure switch (i.e. an idiot light ).

---dens

 

[CMF_mike004]

DeepFraught WROTE:

"From past experience in other engines I've found the oil light is triggered by a pressure sensor in the head, or top of the block. e.g. when you start up, it is momentarily lit until oil pressure builds.

I wouldn't think the bottom end would be starved of oil first, and rather than a vibration it would probably sound a lot more sinister.

I had a friend rebuild an engine thinking main bearing problem based on the sound under load. Turned out the diesel injector service he payed for, was actually a swift trick of blocking the EGR to reduce the smoke. Dribbling injectors causing detonation then sounded like impending main bearing failure.

If it ain't broke... it can still be modified

Thanks, DF. I hope you're right. But the car has loud "tappet" noise on start up, and the engine also seems to get *very* hot. Although the temp sensor stays mid-range, when I pull the car into the works car park after a 1hr stop-start commute, the body work and radiator ticks itself cool for about 5 mins. Like I've just done a Grand Prix or something. Lift the bonnet and the engine is very hot.
Luckily, the weather is cooling down in the UK. Maybe I will get overheating problems next summer...

Mike

 

[CMF_DeepFraught]

Mike, you're a gambling man aren't you?

 

[CMF_slugman42]

HI mike
If the engine seems very hot, how is the radiator,not as hot or cooler ?
you may have a jammed or partially stuck thermostat ?
BUT your temp gauge reads normal,,,,hmmmm
Summer may show if there is a problem as you say,
How frigging cold is it over there & ( joke ) what day is UK summer this year ?
How quick does the "tappet" noise go away ( cam chain tensioners ? )

 

[CMF_mike004]

>
If the engine seems very hot, how is the radiator,not as hot or cooler <
Radiator is not as hot as the engine block. But the radiator "ticks" itself cool even after a short 2 mile run.

>you may have a jammed or partially stuck thermostat ?

BUT your temp gauge reads normal,,,,hmmmm<
Yes. Temp gauge is OK and coolant level is OK.

>Summer may show if there is a problem as you say,

How frigging cold is it over there &amp; ( joke ) what day is UK summer this year ?<

We don't get cold winters anymore over here. But I tend to put the heater on in the mornings.

>How quick does the "tappet" noise go away ( cam chain tensioners ? )<
It doesn't. Pull up after a 20 mile drive and it is chattering away...

Still rolling...
Mike

 

[CMF_slugman42]

I would replace the thermostat on suspicion , it shouldnt break the bank & its cheaper than potentially cooking the engine
Try taking it out & putting it in a pot of water boiling on the stove ( that should make mum happy ) it should open smoothly & fully
The noise of a cam chain is a constant "whirring" noise while a tappet is a definate "clicking"
without hearing it "in person" its hard to say

 

[CMF_LonePhantom]

If you are getting clicking noises that may be a tappet get some performance engine treatment. On my previous 200SX I developed this noise a while after I got it, and it was a result of the car originally using mineral based oil and I had started using synthetic. This had caused a built up of crap from the mixing of the remnants of the mineral oil after an oil change. The treatment pretty much cleared it up straight away.