My cars is steaming from exhaust exesivly had an head gasket recently and has been fine up until today
Micra exesive steam from exhaust
- Thread starter Micra-wave 92
- Start date
Its not showing the pic but it started to steam realy bad an i left it 20 mins parked up started up again still abit steamy drove home with no steam what so ever an no steam when i stopped at home strange you couldnt see the tail light wen it was parked up because of steam now its cleard thanks for help
Thanks also i tried fitting a sterio but every time i connect the earth the sterio comes on thn goes straight off again
I have correct adaptor wires i shal try with aireal on tomoz thanks
Yes it dose it with it on off and running bought the car without sterio
Maybe so hope not tho also do you know where i could purchase a decat pipe for the cat underneath the car
I thought about sleave but would have to b quite a long sleave but im thinking about a peter lloyd system so would have to cut flange off that if i purchesed
I think so it dosent say just says for cars with cat under car
Sterio now in and working back to the problem of the steam when the car gets upto running temp after been run a while the exhaust is exesivly steaming thn coolant starts to come out of the breather on the header tank HELP
frank
Club Member
pollyp
Club Member
a cold engine and cold exhaust will always cool n condense the exhaust vapours especially during this colder wetter season. if it still steams heavily once fully warmed up after a hard run it could be a blown HG
with a cold engine, remove the rad cap, start engine and look for any bubbles when blipping the throttle. if it always bubbles, the HG blown
if the coolant expansion tank always bubbles abit or overflows n gushes out coolant from the top port when reving then the HG blown
with a cold engine, remove the rad cap, start engine and look for any bubbles when blipping the throttle. if it always bubbles, the HG blown
if the coolant expansion tank always bubbles abit or overflows n gushes out coolant from the top port when reving then the HG blown
Thats what im thinkin yes could be cheaper to purchese a second hand engine if its had the gasket done before only 5/6 days ago
Where can i find the engine code for my engine its a 1999 1.0
Thanks i will have a look tomoz
Well i have changed the thermostat an its stopped pressurising is there any bleed points as the heaters are still abit cold run for a while with cap off
frank
Club Member
no, and the heater system is about 6" lower than the radcap (ie, if a heater goes cold on you, the rad will be about half full)
Wen i put water in the rad tho it just over flows
SirChris
Educated Bodger
lol I feared my head gasket repair was failed due to the water left in the exhuast lol/ Most scary!
It is when it steams like crazy i panniced but a trusty thermostat annit seams ok apart from a cold heater
frank
Club Member
i always fill the rad then run it round the block till the gauge starts to move, then when its cooled down it takes another half a litre or so.........job done
pollyp
Club Member
remember to turn heater on full hot during bleeding to allow fluid to purge through the heater matrix.
I usually brim the rad and the coolant tank to full, start engine with rad cap off and let it warm up stationary (idle with occasional blipping) to 82c till the thermo opens to allow the excess bubbles to escape from the block to the rad top till it no longer bubbles.
during warm up, the liquid coolant will expand and try to overfill the radcap, you simply cover the rad hole with the rad cap to seal it, squeeze the top hose to push the excess over to the expansion tank, remove the rad cap then unsqueeze the top hose.
whenever any excess bubble pops up, the liquid level will drop in the rad. provided the level in the expansion tank is near full, raising the rad fluid level is the reverse of the prev step above.
squeeze the top hose, seal the hole with the radcap, release the top hose to suck coolant from the expansion tank into the rad, open the rad cap to check level and repeat as required till its brimmed.
when the fans kicked in twice and it stopped bubbling its prob bled
I usually brim the rad and the coolant tank to full, start engine with rad cap off and let it warm up stationary (idle with occasional blipping) to 82c till the thermo opens to allow the excess bubbles to escape from the block to the rad top till it no longer bubbles.
during warm up, the liquid coolant will expand and try to overfill the radcap, you simply cover the rad hole with the rad cap to seal it, squeeze the top hose to push the excess over to the expansion tank, remove the rad cap then unsqueeze the top hose.
whenever any excess bubble pops up, the liquid level will drop in the rad. provided the level in the expansion tank is near full, raising the rad fluid level is the reverse of the prev step above.
squeeze the top hose, seal the hole with the radcap, release the top hose to suck coolant from the expansion tank into the rad, open the rad cap to check level and repeat as required till its brimmed.
when the fans kicked in twice and it stopped bubbling its prob bled
