Cool.
I don't know enough about the CG Series Motor to give you a definative answer to knife edging that particular crank...
but to aid response, obviously a lighter forged piston, same with con-rod, and a very good balance, rather than taking material away from something that will also make it weaker (removing nitrided/tuftrided surfaces, potentially introducing new localised stress points).
Simply balancing the engine will not have the effect you are after.
i didn't say that balancing the crank was going to have an effect that i'm after. i'm planning a full re-build for a turbo application if all goes to plan. so i'll be stripping down the engine and fitting all new bearings etc, there's no harm in having the crank balanced and straightened as it'll be out anyway. i'd be miffed if it was re-built and the crank wasn't true. for the money i'll be spending, i can justify an extra £40-£60 for the crank(£140ish for knife edge and balance).knife edging isn't about weight reduction as much as reduced resistance, less resistance = more useable power. the same as the lighter fly and crank pully that's on there now. i'll be purchacing forged pistons and possibly rods for the re-build.
it's not that i'm reving it higher, rather a more responsive engine - easier reving. i'll be getting the crank balanced anyway, just wondering if it's worth getting it knife edged at the same time.
Where you getting this done, have you seen their previous work?
Swiper, definately ask around to see who can balance your full bottom end
(Crankshaft, Flywheel, Clutch at least), because often it's hard to find a good machine shop that can accomodate the full bottom end rotating weight.
I would suggest a piston from someone like Wiseco or JE if they have listed, and Con-rod look at Carillo (I am using Wiseco Forged Piston and Carillo Super-A Conrod in my GTR). ARP Full Fastener package also will be money worth spending.
You'll get greater response from a lighter rod/piston setup, than llightening/streamlining/knife edging the crankshaft.
Sounds like a cool project mate! Good luck
Swiper, definately ask around to see who can balance your full bottom end
(Crankshaft, Flywheel, Clutch at least), because often it's hard to find a good machine shop that can accomodate the full bottom end rotating weight.
I would suggest a piston from someone like Wiseco or JE if they have listed, and Con-rod look at Carillo (I am using Wiseco Forged Piston and Carillo Super-A Conrod in my GTR). ARP Full Fastener package also will be money worth spending.
You'll get greater response from a lighter rod/piston setup, than llightening/streamlining/knife edging the crankshaft.
Sounds like a cool project mate! Good luck
Swiper, definately ask around to see who can balance your full bottom end
(Crankshaft, Flywheel, Clutch at least), because often it's hard to find a good machine shop that can accomodate the full bottom end rotating weight.
I would suggest a piston from someone like Wiseco or JE if they have listed, and Con-rod look at Carillo (I am using Wiseco Forged Piston and Carillo Super-A Conrod in my GTR). ARP Full Fastener package also will be money worth spending.
You'll get greater response from a lighter rod/piston setup, than llightening/streamlining/knife edging the crankshaft.
Sounds like a cool project mate! Good luck
How much is the Carillo crank may I ask?
There is no need to change the crank when nothing is wrong with the one in the K11. They are proven time and time agian at 8000+ RPM and with high power turbo conversions.