K11 stalls after driving for 10min....

[CMF_rowstar]

Surely not the TB this time....
I can drive for about 5km around town before it starts to fuel cut and stall completely.

...and then it won't start until 1hr later. then it will do the same thing...5km then stall.

Once it stalls completely and i pull to the side of the road, the starter motor is working but just won't kick over. And also the battery then becomes intermittent - dash warning lights not even working. But all is fine if i just wait and hour or 2.

have a feeling it has to do with something heating up due to having to leave it turned off for a while before it starts again.

I have soldered the TB a few times now and fixed it each time no probs every few months. This is kind of the same symptoms how it cuts out, but even when the TB was at it's worst it would still kick over and start straight away.

any ideas? cheers guys

 

[CMF_frank2]

the dashlight fault sounds like a dodgy connection somewhere rowstar, try those 2 big spade connectors that run into the batt + lead

 

[CMF_sikK11]

I would say crank angle sensor if micras have them. Seems when it gets hot it stops working. Had to replace the one on our WRX last week for same reason. Find the Crank angle sensor if cg;s have them and hose it down when it stops. Then see if it starts. Or just check for spark. If there is no spark then thats your problem. When it cools the sensor works and will work until its hot again.

 

[CMF_asdame]

maybe the idle speed is also set too low.

normally idles at 1300rpm when cold then the IAV closes when warmed up to drop the idle down to 700rpm.

if the IAV works fine and the idle screw is set too low, it'll idle fine when cold above 700rpm but once warmed and the IAV closes and idle drops below the optimum 700rpm therefore engine cannot sustain momentum & stalls

try warm up the engine and then turn the allen head idle screw at back of TB anti-clockwise to raise the idle up to 700rpm

 

[CMF_rowstar]

it is idling fine, cold is at 1200rpm, then warm is 800rpm.
at traffic lights etc idle is fine, but as i said i can feel fuel cut while cruising and then sure enough next time i stop at lights it will idle kinda ok but splutters and stalls as i go to take off. this is usually 10 min into driving.

 

[CMF_sikK11]

Its the crank angle sensor.

 

[CMF_frank2]

sikK11 WROTE:

"Its the crank angle sensor.

when my cas failed it was instant and total, then worked 100% if allowed to cool (for 5 minutes lol)
and a faulty cas should,nt affect the dashlights eh ?

frank

 

[CMF_rowstar]

had the RACV look at it...

checked spark plugs, fuel pump etc....they said the crank angle sensor is actually working, but the distributor doesn't have a great spark or is heating up and then cutting out.
So i got a bottle of cold water and slowly poured it over the dizzy metal casing that attaches to the side of the head....and sure enough that did allow it to start again for a short while.

so....off to the 'parts section' for a secondhand dizzy.
hopefully, fingers crossed, this is the solution.

 

[CMF_sikK11]

TOLD YOU. LOL

 

[CMF_mycra]

interesting...its always fun figuring out whats wrong with the micras. why cant we have jap delivered car like NZ.

 

[CMF_frank2]

any update rowstar ?
what your man described sounds like a faulty coil ? (but that still would,nt explain the dashlight problem tho eh )

 

[CMF_rowstar]

not yet i have to still take to the mechanics to fix /diagnose propertly....