Is this true?

Hi people,

As a very possible purchace of a Micra K10 I'm getting off my friend it says in the book it does like London to Paris and back on a tank, I Google mapped it and it's 455km there which is god nose how many miles.

Is this true? What sort of miles do people get from a full tank?

Cheers.

Edit - just found out there and back is roughly 564.4 milrs.
 
Well 455klm which is 283 miles so thats a 566 mile round trip so i would say not, even taking into account not driving whilst crossing the channel
 
#### easy dude, i did 420 mile round trip from leeds to st davids south wales on one full tank. Was reading a fraction above empty when i got home but it still had plenty left. That was with 3 people in the car. If the engines are well serviced and maintained you can get some serious mileage out of your tank.
The absolute max you can possibly do, and i mean to actually drive untill it runs dry and stalls, is about 550 miles. That is as far as i've ever got from a single tank (fortunatly i was carrying two full jerry-cans in the boot lol)
Fuel consumption info given by nissan and confirmed my my own k10's.
1.0L low-comp 50bhp ma10 - 56 MPG (LS & pre-facelift models only)
1.0L high-comp 55bhp ma10s - 59 MPG (GS & upwards & special order 1L's have this motor)
1.2 ma12 non-cat - 62MPG (all non-cat/ecc 1.2's)
1.2 ma12 cat - 59MPG (SLX & Super S models)
 
I've got a 1987 1.0 Colette with the 50bhp low comp engine and 38k miles on the clock. I've been using the roadtrip app on my phone to track the mpg since march and it's averaging 46.5. I've got as much as 48mpg when i was making a bit of an effort to be economical but i think it could get to 50 just about if i lost the rubbish in the boot, pushed the tyres up a few psi and avoid the revs. Not too bothered anyway as I know I have to really push it to get less than 45mpg. I think I managed 420 miles from a tank but chickened out of going any further.
 
i went to newcastle and back in mine it took £40 off me but i have to go over lots of hills and lots of starting and stopping before i get to the m6 lol and that was when petrol was about £1.15ish and i dint drive slow on the way back. i think that is 100 odd miles from mine i think it worked out to be 300 something miles as i got lost in newcastle as well cause my missus can't read a map :doh:
 
Porky are you saying the 1.2 is better on fuel than the 1.0 ? Would this be on the motorway and is it because the 1.2 has the 5 speed box ?

Thanks
 
So what kinda mpg are you talking about from a 1.2 on motorways? What figures have people actually got other than guesses?
 
esox; yep that's exactly what i said, and that would be all-round not just on motorways. It's a much cleaner engine, stand by an idling 1.0L then stand by an idling 1.2L, the 1.2 doesn't stink of rich & gassey fumes like the 1.0L. Think on, bigger engines don't have to work as hard to pull the car along. It's not simply because of the 5-speed box, it's the engine as a whole & the smaller jetted carb that make the difference.

dg; pretty much as above; 62mpg is the average on the motorway and i've had the same figure on non-motorway driving, providing that the car is well serviced and highly maintained. The lowest "local" driving figure i've clocked is 55mpg, that's driving main roads (30, 40 & national speed limit) in ordinary steady traffic.

Of course there will always be some guy who comes on and says something like; "no way you're talking rubbish, i have a 1.2 and i can't get those figures.", to which i say fair enough those kinda people are just as intitled to thier oppinions as the rest of us. But they are forgetting one small but very important point, which is that they aren't driving MY cars.

I service my engines every 3 - 4 thousand miles; and that includes fuel, air & oil filters, 15w/40 castrol gtx, rotor arm, dizzy cap & plugs. I also clean and grease the brake callipers when servicing my k10s, all in all it costs just under £40 each time. Gear oil is changed every 10K. I only use "total" fuel and i keep all 4 tires at 29psi.
When is comes to maintainence i'm a completely obsessed geek but my cars are all the better for it and i enjoy doing it so all's well. *geek*

I'll give ya'all a tip, weather it'll work for you or not i don't know, but for me i find that filling up by £25 - £30 in one go gives me a lot more mileage to the amount i spent than just topping up by a tenner here and there. (Y)
 
Thanks for clearing that up Porky...Can you tell us a little more about greasing the brake calipers ? Which parts and do you have to remove them or do you just apply grease to a certain area ?

Thanks

Cheers for the TIP going try that as i'm a £10 man
 
You have to remove the calliper, pads, slide rails (the silver clip-on things that the pads slide around on), and you need to remove the rubber gaitors around the slider pins and remove the slider pins. The slider pins are what cause all the problems on the k10's and k11's because they tend to rust & seize up if they aren't kept greased. Which causes the pads to bind against the disk and in bad cases can prevent you from applying full braking force (k11's are more prone to that).
You need to clean the pistons too but i've stopped greasing them on my cars because sometimes the grease can make it difficult for the piston to move because all the dirt sticks to it.
I might make a little guide or something the next time i do my brakes, for the new micra mechanics in training out there :laugh:
Is there a propper section on this forum for guides? I don't remember ever comming across one, if there isn't one then maybe we have one, put em all in one place so they don't get lost in the archives.
 
Ok that's very interesting. I was impressed with 45-50mpg but seems like there is a bit more to be had from the 1.0 if a well run 1.2 is getting 60+mpg. Mine is in pretty good nick but due a good service and a new dizzy. Wondering what a GC10 or GC13 conversion might give me (carbs or injection)?
 
Ok that's very interesting. I was impressed with 45-50mpg but seems like there is a bit more to be had from the 1.0 if a well run 1.2 is getting 60+mpg. Mine is in pretty good nick but due a good service and a new dizzy. Wondering what a GC10 or GC13 conversion might give me (carbs or injection)?

you mean cg10/cg13 lol. on carbs probably not good depending on the carb/s i know the cg10 when in a k11 gives quite good mpg so would be better in a k10 cause the k10 is lighter.
 
If running on fuel injection set up maybe, but the cg is a heavy clumbsy lump of crap and i cannot for the life in me understand why people wanna put them in k10's. If you're gonna convert go for something worthwhile like bluebird 1.8, sunny 1.8 or 1.4, primera 2.0, anything with some balls. Hell has anyone ever tried a 2.8 VR6 implant, or a honda v-tech?
If you're gonna blow the time, effort and money one a cg conversion you may aswell stick with the ma and just tune the thing it's much less hassle and much better value for money.
 
If running on fuel injection set up maybe, but the cg is a heavy clumbsy lump of crap and i cannot for the life in me understand why people wanna put them in k10's. If you're gonna convert go for something worthwhile like bluebird 1.8, sunny 1.8 or 1.4, primera 2.0, anything with some balls. Hell has anyone ever tried a 2.8 VR6 implant, or a honda v-tech?
If you're gonna blow the time, effort and money one a cg conversion you may aswell stick with the ma and just tune the thing it's much less hassle and much better value for money.

I considered a b18c swap but the box being on the other side put me off
 
There doesn't seem to be much on other engine conversions so I guess its a bit of go with what others know. I don't have cash to do anything for a while but when I do i'd want to get 10-20 more bhp and keep or improve the fuel consumption. Maybe trying to have my cake and eat it. Suppose thinking about it the best option for me would be to recondition an MA12 and gearbox but they are getting pretty rare. Thinking behind a CG13 was that parts etc will be easier to get for some years to come as the MA's rot away in the scrap yards.
 
I'd recommend custom manifolds and an easy flow exhaust in that case dg. The stock manifolds suck, they just aren't able to feed enough fuel/air to the engine, especially with the ma12 coz it uses the same manifold as the ma10, go figure...
You'd think, bigger displacement - bigger manifolds, but i believe it ultimately came down to cost & Nissan don't like spending money :glare:

I think that probably the best way to mod an MA would be to convert it to fuel injection like the figs for example but not necessarily with a turbo attached. The injection manifolds are a much better and more modern design and once an engine is running that sort of a setup, tuning is easier (I believe) especially because there is an ecu which can be mapped to free up some horses.
Plus you’d have the added bonus of better cold starting and increased stability of combustion, it’s just an all round good solid base to build from. Because of course then you can play with super chargers and multiple turbos. :grinning:

I guess the other option would be to go down the road of NA tuning, but that can be a wee bit pricey for what you acctually gain from it.
 
I considered a b18c swap but the box being on the other side put me off

yeah thats the same reason i dint bother going down the honda swap route. i could of bought the b20 out of my old prelude back and chucked the b16 head on it but like you say with it being the other way round i bet its a nightmare.
 
Porkpie do you know of a bolt replacement manifold and downpipe for the k10 1.0L ?
Would it be possible to have the original one ported along with the head and would it show any significant improvement ?

Cheers
 
Porkpie do you know of a bolt replacement manifold and downpipe for the k10 1.0L ?
Would it be possible to have the original one ported along with the head and would it show any significant improvement ?

Cheers

the original manifold is just pure bad design for anything performance wise mate. you will probably have to buy or make a custom manifold they are very easy to make if you know how to weld. you can buy a k11 4-2-1 or 4-1 manifold and just modify the flange as they are the same port spacing mate.
 
It's all custom fabrication if you want performance manifolds for k10's. There is virtually no demmand for those kinda parts which is why no mainstream tuning companies bothered to start producing them. Best thing to do, if you are serious and you are prepaired to spend some money, get a spare inlet mani and a spare exhaust mani, then take em to a propper fabricator and ask em to make performance versions.
Many people forget that the stock inlets have coolant pumped through them to keep the carb at the right temp. So they don't incorporate channels in their "performance" manifold to carry the coolant, which means they can't use it.

A port polish won't turn your engine into a fire breathing rocket, it just makes it a little easier for it operate. A slight improvement in throttle response is what will be gained. This is part of NA (naturally aspirated) tuning which i mentioned above somewhere, and as i said, the costs involved outweigh the benefits. Performance manifolds are probably the single most effective way to tune an MA engine, or as i said, conversion to a fuel injected setup.

One thing i'll say about tuning, whichever tuning route you wanna take. Give yourself the budget to see it through all the way. I've lost count of the number of times people have asked "how can i tune my MA to get more power" and then further along they write something like "i'm on a shoe-string budget".
It always bugs me a little because you can't do it on a nothing budget, if you want power then you've gotta be prepaired to spend the money to do it right or else you're just gonna run into problems and waste money.
If anyone out there is serious about tuning, the best advise i can give you is to research into it and workout what costs are gonna be involved before you even spend a penny. Get a plan together, research local companies who can do the fabrication you need, or who sell the parts/products you need. Get at the very least a rough total price figure and then make sure you have enough cash saved up and put aside for it before you start putting things into action.
(Y)
 
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