Improving the breathing on the K12 CR range of engines (Now Fitted)

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I can't be alone in thinking that a little extra performance could be squeezed out of the non 1.6 or diesel engined cars if the engine could breath better.
Not wanting mind numbing induction roar I steered away from open air filters, (though in hindsight, what I have finally come up with could be useful in that application as well), so the initial stage was to buy a K&N panel filter to replace the standard paper one.
The next thing I wanted to do was find a way of neatly replacing the, apparently very restrictive, air feed from the slam panel, with a resonant chamber in it, with something considerably more free flowing.
I had a look at the air feed box under the filter and soon realised that there was two variations (both with yet another resonant chamber 'stuck' on the side.
The one on my car was the post 2005 design:-



Resonant chamber integral with the box:-



The inlet spigot fouled up with support webs for the chamber on the side:mad::-



The earlier version had a separate chamber attached to the side of the box with rivets:-



And with a usable inlet spigot :cool:



With this in mind I decided that the earlier version would be better to 'play with' and I managed to buy a complete early type engine top cover/ filter box on ebay, for the princely sum of £14.50 inc carriage, with the bonus that it came with a spare MAP sensor and vacuum switch and piping still attached:cool:



Having got the replacement earlier filter box to play with, I measured up the spigot, finding that the O/D was a just under 55mm and the bore tapered from 50mm at the opening to about 46mm on the inside edge.
I plan to open this up to a consistent 50/51mm to maximise flow.
The next stage was to design a suitable 'big bore' cold air feed that looked as if it was OEM;)
More to follow tomorrow.......






.
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Following on from yesterdays post......
Routing an enlarged cold air feed, without cutting holes in the front of the car and using a very long duct on my K12 appears to leave me with an obvious solution, copy what Nissan did, mount the new cold air pick up on the slam panel.
With this in mind I started looking round for a suitable donor part and found this from a Renault Megan:-


Having no definitive idea of the sizes from the ebay picture, but deducing that as it was suitable for a 136bhp 2 litre engine it would be more than adequate for my 1.2 80bhp Micra, I made an offer to the ebay seller and picked it up for £10.50 including carriage :)
It arrived after a couple of days and apart from being seriously dirty it fitted the bill perfectly.
I stripped the disgusting (too short anyway) flexible pipe off of it and measured the hose connector spigot which turned out to be 60mm diameter, which effectively sized the rest of the new system.
After cleaning and removing the attached rubber flap I offered it up to the slam panel where the original cold air pick up was mounted and found that as it was the outlet was too square to the panel/engine to easily line up with the air box inlet.
A bit of work with the dremel cured this. (at this point I still needed to drill the holes for the mounting clips to the slam panel)



The 60mm spigot on the air pick up dictated the next stage so I ordered this flex hose:-



The next problem was to find a suitable way to transition between the flexible 60mm bore inlet pipe and the 54mm air inlet spigot on the air box.
A bit more searching on ebay came up with this 45 degree elbow, which has a 55mm bore each end and an outside diameter of fractionally over 60mm, which the 60mm flex just fits over :cool:.



The elbow is just a little loose over the airbox spigot so I cut four equi-spaced slots in one end



and order two of these 59 to 63mm stainless hose clamps,



the other one to use on the other end of the flexible pipe, with the fitting that I had saved from the other end of the Megan inlet pipe, which I will glue into the new flexi pipe.



Just trial fitted the Megan air inlet to the slam panel and with a bit of extra trimming to the L/H end the bonnet closes :D.


When the hose clamps arrive I will do the final fitting, cutting the 60mm flexi hose to the correct length.
Watch this space for the grand finale.:cool:
 
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John,
I've been thinking of same issue, non restrictive flow of air to engine. With new Mini BMW MINI - NEW BONNET SCOOP R53 R52S - 2002>2008 fitted to hood and then making ducting from existing parts from scrap yards. Result, cool looking hood/bonnet with scoop intake :)

-Mika-

http://[url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-MINI-NEW-BONNET-SCOOP-R53-R52S-2002-2008-/221655517521?hash=item339bb2c951:g:hkwAAMXQBlJSBPjX][color=#FF8000][b][u]BMW MINI - NEW BONNET SCOOP R53 R52S - 2002>2008[/u][/b][/color][/url]
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
John,
I've been thinking of same issue, non restrictive flow of air to engine. With new Mini BMW MINI - NEW BONNET SCOOP R53 R52S - 2002>2008 fitted to hood and then making ducting from existing parts from scrap yards. Result, cool looking hood/bonnet with scoop intake :)

-Mika-

Nice idea Mika, though I didn't want to cut any holes in the body on my car and I can revert back to standard in a couple of minutes with the design that I have come up with for the smaller engines. There's plenty of opportunity out there for subtle modification/re-design, if you set your mind to it.:cool:
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
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Used hood from Netherlands it's 100€ including shipping. You can even choose color...
Parts must me cheaper in the UK Mika, I got involved in repairing the K12 of a friends wife, after she ran into the back of a bus and the replacement hood/bonnet cost us about £25 and the front bumper £36, in correct colour, from breakers....The expensive bits were the aircon and water radiators :(
 
Often shipping from your islands of UK is more than value of part and all sellers aren't willing to ship to the Land of the Finns. Continental Europe is for me in that sense cheaper in many cases.
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Well the clips finally arrived today, so no time was wasted fitting the parts:-



Looks neat and seems to make for a smoother acceleration through the rev range, and appears to hit the 6.7K rpm rev limiter much faster now ;).
The old system was restricted to 39mm dia at the airbox entry, now 51mm dia there and the slam panel air gatherer had an outlet dia of 41mm, now 57mm diameter with 60 mm I/D flexi to the air box :cool:
Now we are making the most from the K&N panel filter!
 
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I removed 160SR duct today. It's all the way from intake to air box about 54mm in diameter. I found two intake silencers, most likely to muffle suction noise in drive by noise test, in duct. When I installed cold air induction to my Camaro, instructions told to plug or remove silencers, in order to avoid turbulence in air flow. I tough follow same principal with Micra and taped silencer openings in duct, I left silencers in place. Bigger one has mounting post for duct. This modification took about hour. I don't know is it my imagination, since something was done. But throttle response seemed to be little bit crispier... :rolleyes:
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I removed 160SR duct today. It's all the way from intake to air box about 54mm in diameter. I found two intake silencers, most likely to muffle suction noise in drive by noise test, in duct. When I installed cold air induction to my Camaro, instructions told to plug or remove silencers. I tough follow same principal with Micra and taped silencer openings in duct, I left silencers in place. Bigger one has mounting post for duct. This modification took about hour. I don't know is it my imagination, since something was done. But throttle response seemed to be little crispier... :rolleyes:
The one in the intake pipe on mine Mika was just a weird shaped straight through device, now obviously totally removed, however I left the one on the side of the lower part of the filter box in place. Might try taping the connection hole to see if it makes any more difference. Strangely the original, post 2005 filter box that I replaced has the connection hole to the 'silencer' chamber on the right hand side, away from the engine and at right angles to the air inlet spigot, whereas the earlier one, which I have fitted has the connection hole directly opposite the inlet spigot, the chamber being 'L' shaped and removable, and attached to the side of the filter box by 3 pop rivets as shown in some of my earlier pictures on here............
More driving today has definitely strengthened my initial feeling that the new inlet system has made quite a difference to the cars performance. :cool:
 
I completely removed the air box and feed from my dci and replaced it with a cheap cone filter. I'll fit a pipercross cone when I get a chance but as this was just experimental it's fine. After fitting it to the maf it just happens to flex through to behind the wheel arch providing it with cooler air all the time. This has freed up a lot of bottom end power
 

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Following this with interest. I've been experimenting on a CR14DE in a Cube which has the same intake. The biggest problem with the CR engines is the intake air temperatures. The airbox/throttle body assembly heatsoaks from the top of the engine and the exhaust manifold. I routinely get intake temps +10C above ambient. What was worse was when the cold air tube fell off - the intake temps shot up to 50C !!

I made some gains by insulating the underside of the airbox with heat shield (a lot of the japanese March owners do this). It reduces the intake temps to within +7C of ambient. Not great but a step in the right direction.

Ultimately i'd like to find a way to take the throttle body off the top of the engine altogether. Have a look at this setup:

 
Well the clips finally arrived today, so no time was wasted fitting the parts:-



Looks neat and seems to make for a smoother acceleration through the rev range, and appears to hit the 6.7K rpm rev limiter much faster now ;).
The old system was restricted to 39mm dia at the airbox entry, now 51mm dia there and the slam panel air gatherer had an outlet dia of 41mm, now 57mm diameter with 60 mm I/D flexi to the air box :cool:
Now we are making the most from the K&N panel filter!
Hi Am doing this modification to my 1.2 K12 and was wondering on the ram air tube rings on end of hose did you cut out the inner part of the rings ?
Once hose is over the elbow and other end the finishing rings supplied with hose won`t fit over.
Any pics of what was done to end rings ?
Cheers
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Hi Am doing this modification to my 1.2 K12 and was wondering on the ram air tube rings on end of hose did you cut out the inner part of the rings ?
Once hose is over the elbow and other end the finishing rings supplied with hose won`t fit over.
Any pics of what was done to end rings ?
Cheers
Hi, yes I forgot about that bit, I carefully cut the 'turn in' part of the finishing rings out , just leaving the end flange in place, then no problems fitting the finisher over the flex, with a small amount of 'Gorilla glue' to keep it in place...
 
Following this with interest. I've been experimenting on a CR14DE in a Cube which has the same intake. The biggest problem with the CR engines is the intake air temperatures. The airbox/throttle body assembly heatsoaks from the top of the engine and the exhaust manifold. I routinely get intake temps +10C above ambient. What was worse was when the cold air tube fell off - the intake temps shot up to 50C !!

I made some gains by insulating the underside of the airbox with heat shield (a lot of the japanese March owners do this). It reduces the intake temps to within +7C of ambient. Not great but a step in the right direction.

Ultimately i'd like to find a way to take the throttle body off the top of the engine altogether. Have a look at this setup:

Hmmm, insulation of duct and air box on 1.6l engine. Need to think for few moments how to do it. It feeds cooler air to engine => bit more POWER! :cool:
 
Hi, yes I forgot about that bit, I carefully cut the 'turn in' part of the finishing rings out , just leaving the end flange in place, then no problems fitting the finisher over the flex, with a small amount of 'Gorilla glue' to keep it in place...
Cheers John D, just thought would check before start cutting. Going to have a go at fitting roof spoiler from sport sr version. Mine is an SE one so will have to find out how is fixed on and get some nissan bolts for it
 
Hi John! I always thought in these days the same things as yours, our cr14de needs more air, i noticed the air feed was a completely disaster.
I had the same ideas as yours, then i searched on internet different type of solutions, then i randomly found this post and here we are!
I now ask you few things:
don't you think that a smooth inlet hoose is better for the fluid dynamics laws? ( smooth for air intake and rough for liquids?)
What you think about a suction horn on the top of the hoose instead the megane's air feed, gaining the venturi effect?
And a tecnical one, how do you attached the hoose in the spigot?
I'm a tweaker so i decide to move on in this direction gaining (hopefully) some bhp!! thanks for your experience and well done!
Forget my english, i'm still learning english!
Well the clips finally arrived today, so no time was wasted fitting the parts:-



Looks neat and seems to make for a smoother acceleration through the rev range, and appears to hit the 6.7K rpm rev limiter much faster now ;).
The old system was restricted to 39mm dia at the airbox entry, now 51mm dia there and the slam panel air gatherer had an outlet dia of 41mm, now 57mm diameter with 60 mm I/D flexi to the air box :cool:
Now we are making the most from the K&N panel filter!
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Hi John! I always thought in these days the same things as yours, our cr14de needs more air, i noticed the air feed was a completely disaster.
I had the same ideas as yours, then i searched on internet different type of solutions, then i randomly found this post and here we are!
I now ask you few things:
don't you think that a smooth inlet hoose is better for the fluid dynamics laws? ( smooth for air intake and rough for liquids?)
What you think about a suction horn on the top of the hoose instead the megane's air feed, gaining the venturi effect?
And a tecnical one, how do you attached the hoose in the spigot?
I'm a tweaker so i decide to move on in this direction gaining (hopefully) some bhp!! thanks for your experience and well done!
Forget my english, i'm still learning english!
Hi Johan, look up 'boundary layer effect' in air ducting, you will see that there is a layer of air virtually lining the inside face of a duct , which effectively smooths out the ripples of a flexible duct ....... Also you need flexibility between the inlet and the engine, as the engine moves relative to the car body...
As for the pick up point on the slam panel I figured that the Micra designers would have done airflow tests and picked out the optimum place for it, so just went along with that. I'm sure that it would be possible to get better air flow using a different approach but it will be governed by the law of diminishing returns, and I think my approach gives an appreciably large increase in flow and any future improvements would be marginal... the hose is glued into the spigot that in turn clamps to the Megan inlet.
 
Thanks for the crystal clear explanation,
Jolly good, i’ve already changed my wheels with a 15x6 et42 Toora Competizione (+-6kg each) and my shock absorbers with 4 bilsten b4, ( springs not changed)
Which work it’s good to be done after this air feed?
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Thanks for the crystal clear explanation,
Jolly good, i’ve already changed my wheels with a 15x6 et42 Toora Competizione (+-6kg each) and my shock absorbers with 4 bilsten b4, ( springs not changed)
Which work it’s good to be done after this air feed?
Engine wise, there is not much in the way of options for the K12 petrol engines, unlike the 1.5 diesel which will benefit from a tuning box, giving 25/30% more power! You would have thought that someone out there would be able to re-map the ECU, if only to move the rev limiter up to at least 7k rpm? With the inlet modification my engine is still pulling like a train till it hits the limiter at about 6.5K. :mad:
 
Well..i come from italy and there's one that surely can remap our engine...it is called Carburatori Bergamo, had a YT channel named as the same way, maybe you can contact them asking if is it possible, he did a lot of cars, minis included.
 
yeah the dirt it's the next thing i had to solve, by the way no, i was searching something smoother than the flex, but also flexible like that..always for the discourse of the fluid dynamics..maybe i'll contact some hoses detail seller for hints..
 
Engine wise, there is not much in the way of options for the K12 petrol engines, unlike the 1.5 diesel which will benefit from a tuning box, giving 25/30% more power! You would have thought that someone out there would be able to re-map the ECU, if only to move the rev limiter up to at least 7k rpm? With the inlet modification my engine is still pulling like a train till it hits the limiter at about 6.5K. :mad:
I had a 2004 1.2, and it was a first gen,
The intake was smaller (and pretty crap), and 6.5k limiter , wouldn't redline, but went pretty well, the ECU seem to left learn on driving habits abit.,
My mate had a first facelift of the same model , with the revised intake ect that was just over 7k limiter and felt alittle faster?, (Hard to tell going from driver to passanger ), .but appears there was a update on the management and setup alittle

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
The rev limiter it's not adjustable from us, it needs a remap.
The difference it's in detalis, like the etc you previously mentioned...what is that modification?
By the way i made a test on a driveway on 90kmh (maybe 55mph?) and the comsumption is 5,2L/100km.
I will compare that with a modded air intake and then a modded air intake+sprintfilter.
Plus obviously a 20-60mph and 40-80mph test per each stages.
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
The rev limiter it's not adjustable from us, it needs a remap.
The difference it's in detalis, like the etc you previously mentioned...what is that modification?
By the way i made a test on a driveway on 90kmh (maybe 55mph?) and the comsumption is 5,2L/100km.
I will compare that with a modded air intake and then a modded air intake+sprintfilter.
Plus obviously a 20-60mph and 40-80mph test per each stages.
I doubt that you will see any perceptible change in the fuel consumption at a regular 90km/h, however some expected changes I suppose in your acceleration tests, but I would expect the biggest change would be at the very top end of the rev range of these engines and would show up better on a timed 'drag' type standing 1Km run, gear changing at or near the rev limit.....
 
Following on from yesterdays post......
Routing an enlarged cold air feed, without cutting holes in the front of the car and using a very long duct on my K12 appears to leave me with an obvious solution, copy what Nissan did, mount the new cold air pick up on the slam panel.
With this in mind I started looking round for a suitable donor part and found this from a Renault Megan:-


Having no definitive idea of the sizes from the ebay picture, but deducing that as it was suitable for a 136bhp 2 litre engine it would be more than adequate for my 1.2 80bhp Micra, I made an offer to the ebay seller and picked it up for £10.50 including carriage :)
It arrived after a couple of days and apart from being seriously dirty it fitted the bill perfectly.
I stripped the disgusting (too short anyway) flexible pipe off of it and measured the hose connector spigot which turned out to be 60mm diameter, which effectively sized the rest of the new system.
After cleaning and removing the attached rubber flap I offered it up to the slam panel where the original cold air pick up was mounted and found that as it was the outlet was too square to the panel/engine to easily line up with the air box inlet.
A bit of work with the dremel cured this. (at this point I still needed to drill the holes for the mounting clips to the slam panel)



The 60mm spigot on the air pick up dictated the next stage so I ordered this flex hose:-



The next problem was to find a suitable way to transition between the flexible 60mm bore inlet pipe and the 54mm air inlet spigot on the air box.
A bit more searching on ebay came up with this 45 degree elbow, which has a 55mm bore each end and an outside diameter of fractionally over 60mm, which the 60mm flex just fits over :cool:.



The elbow is just a little loose over the airbox spigot so I cut four equi-spaced slots in one end



and order two of these 59 to 63mm stainless hose clamps,



the other one to use on the other end of the flexible pipe, with the fitting that I had saved from the other end of the Megan inlet pipe, which I will glue into the new flexi pipe.



Just trial fitted the Megan air inlet to the slam panel and with a bit of extra trimming to the L/H end the bonnet closes :D.


When the hose clamps arrive I will do the final fitting, cutting the 60mm flexi hose to the correct length.
Watch this space for the grand finale.:cool:
Do you have the 45 degree elbow e-link? i won't find it :|...
And if it's possibile choosing by that elbows, maybe it's better have a 54x59mm, because you cutted of a mill in the moment of assembling, don't you?
I do not find out the other end of the megane's pipe, it's too wide the ramair hose vs the air feed?
And, 300mm hose it's enough? or it's better 500mm?
 
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John_D

John_D

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Do you have the 45 degree elbow e-link? i won't find it :|...
And if it's possibile choosing by that elbows, maybe it's better have a 54x59mm, because you cutted of a mill in the moment of assembling, don't you?
I do not find out the other end of the megane's pipe, it's too wide the ramair hose vs the air feed?
And, 300mm hose it's enough? or it's better 500mm?
Hi, the elbows come sized to suit standard pipe and they don't make 54x59mm ones, the standard being 55x62mm.
THIS is the elbow I used and THIS would probably work as a substitute for the spigot I got with my Megan air pick up.....As for the flexible pipe length, I've just been out and measured the pipe on mine and 300mm would be enough IF you fit the air pickup in exactly the same place on the slam panel as I did.....
 
Hi John, and thanks for all your tips, yeah, i definitely follow your guide because it's well done..i bought the pipe and the elbow, i try another time with the junkyard for the spigot...stay tuned :D
 
3A73E30E-873C-4F23-AEB8-577065C93080.jpeg

i replaced the filter with a new one meanwhile i do not fit the sprintfilter , and it seems it has wider paper arches, maybe 1bhp gained 🤣
F7EFD5D6-BA1B-4930-9439-8A1B671C24DE.jpeg

by the way the improvement it’s huge between the oem.
4016C20A-2BBD-4717-949D-5301AF691A52.jpeg

Did you ever notice a 1inch hole in the back of oem feed?
 
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John_D

John_D

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Radio Code Guru
View attachment 66927
i replaced the filter with a new one meanwhile i do not fit the sprintfilter , and it seems it has wider paper arches, maybe 1bhp gained 🤣
View attachment 66928
by the way the improvement it’s huge between the oem.
View attachment 66929
Did you ever notice a 1inch hole in the back of oem feed?
Hi Johan, just checked my old inlet and yes there is a hole, I measure it at 15mm diameter. I assume that it is designed to suck some warm air in from above the exhaust manifold to improve warm up of the inlet air on very cold mornings? Mine runs OK without it, though on very cold mornings I don't just start the engine and drive away immediately, I start it, put the blower on, then close the car door and go right round the car, scrapping the ice off of all of the windows... :mad:.
Glad to see that you managed to source the plastic spigot for the flexible hose. I do recommend that you use the same tipe of hose clamps that I did, and not screw type 'Jubilee' clips. Apart from looking better they do a much better job of clamping. :cool:
 
Hi Johan, just checked my old inlet and yes there is a hole, I measure it at 15mm diameter. I assume that it is designed to suck some warm air in from above the exhaust manifold to improve warm up of the inlet air on very cold mornings? Mine runs OK without it, though on very cold mornings I don't just start the engine and drive away immediately, I start it, put the blower on, then close the car door and go right round the car, scrapping the ice off of all of the windows... :mad:.
Glad to see that you managed to source the plastic spigot for the flexible hose. I do recommend that you use the same tipe of hose clamps that I did, and not screw type 'Jubilee' clips. Apart from looking better they do a much better job of clamping. :cool:
Hi John, yeah i’m pretty sure it’s that the reason for the hole.. but it’s worse for performance soaking warm air....
I was thinking to insulate the upper airbox from the rocker cover.. what do you mind?
And what about lower airbox resonator? It is better pluging it?
It’s definitely better the renault spigot. It fits marvellously!
 
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John_D

John_D

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Hi John, yeah i’m pretty sure it’s that the reason for the hole.. but it’s worse for performance soaking warm air....
I was thinking to insulate the upper airbox from the rocker cover.. what do you mind?
And what about lower airbox resonator? It is better pluging it?
It’s definitely better the renault spigot. It fits marvellously!
Hi Johan, ideally the upper airbox should be insulated from the lower metal parts of the engine to keep the inlet air temperature lower though haven't come up with a simple solution for this, perhaps some very thin reflective insulating film stuck to the underside? As for the lower airbox resonator, I did toy with putting tape over the hole between the filter chamber and the resonator but didn't bother in the end. Have you managed to get the earlier lower air box so that you get a clean spigot to put the elbow over? If not how have you solved that problem?
 
I do not buy other parts because i've already spent 40€ and that's enough, plus 60 for sprintfilter, i will file it creating necessary space to fit it without problems..
I've found some thin reflective materials, maybe one day i'll fit under it..
 
Now we have all we need!
Let's begin now!
(don't look so much at the garage, it's not mine, i'm not so messy..)
IMG_7081.JPG

Beginning with a cleanse from the excess of glue around the feed and his friend spigot
IMG_7109.JPG

Creating some space with a grinder, some file shaping, using some chisel to blow off the teeth ( work in progress photo)
IMG_7083.JPG

Cut the spigot so it may enter into the rim..
IMG_7085.JPG

So it works.
IMG_7088.JPG

Cut the elbow to lay it be tightened with a metal clamp.
IMG_7091.JPG

Cut the rim into half, letting the elbow fits inside..
IMG_7092.JPG

IMG_7095.JPG

IMG_7098.JPG

Grind the feed letting his friend spigot fit around (approx grind out 1,5mm diameter)
IMG_7099.JPG

58mm the spigot
IMG_7101.JPG

57,7mm the feed (after the grinding)
IMG_7105.JPG

Perfect fit.
IMG_7103.JPG

Use tape for the right clearance between airbox and elbow.
IMG_7109.JPG

IMG_7104.JPG

Use the silicon to fix the rim on the elbow.
IMG_7111.JPG

Plug the hole on the bottom (i used a piece of bike air chamber and electric tape)
IMG_7115.JPG

Use the silicon for fixing the hose in the spigot.
IMG_7120.JPG

Job done! ( when silicon dries i'll fix the hose into the rimmed elbow)
IMG_7122.JPG

Differences.
I have to drill the feed creating two fitting holes for the clips. (clamps already fitted around feed and elbow)
 

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John_D

John_D

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Now we have all we need!
Let's begin now!
(don't look so much at the garage, it's not mine, i'm not so messy..)
View attachment 67168
Beginning with a cleanse from the excess of glue around the feed and his friend spigot
View attachment 67169
Creating some space with a grinder, some file shaping, using some chisel to blow off the teeth ( work in progress photo)
View attachment 67170
Cut the spigot so it may enter into the rim..
View attachment 67186
So it works.
View attachment 67191
Cut the elbow to lay it be tightened with a metal clamp.
View attachment 67203
Cut the rim into half, letting the elbow fits inside..
View attachment 67205
View attachment 67206
View attachment 67207
Grind the feed letting his friend spigot fit around (approx grind out 1,5mm diameter)
View attachment 67210
58mm the spigot
View attachment 67211
57,7mm the feed (after the grinding)
View attachment 67216
Perfect fit.
View attachment 67212
Use tape for the right clearance between airbox and elbow.
View attachment 67213
View attachment 67214
Use the silicon to fix the rim on the elbow.
View attachment 67215
Plug the hole on the bottom (i used a piece of bike air chamber and electric tape)
View attachment 67217
Use the silicon for fixing the hose in the spigot.
View attachment 67218
Job done! ( when silicon dries i'll fix the hose into the rimmed elbow)
View attachment 67219
Differences.
I have to drill the feed creating two fitting holes for the clips. (clamps already fitted around feed and elbow)
Looking good :cool:
 
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John_D

John_D

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Don't forget that you will have to cut a wedge shaped piece off of the front of the Megan scoop to keep the alignment of the hose to the airbox elbow.........
 
Why i have to cut in this shape? For the flux direction? I think the flux anyway reach the elbow in the same way.. or not?
I think the feed’s edge re-direct flows Indipendently and it doesn’t matters the beginning of the rim/feed/scoop.
So you’re agreeing me?
Tell me your idea..
 
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John_D

John_D

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Radio Code Guru
Why i have to cut in this shape? For the flux direction? I think the flux anyway reach the elbow in the same way.. or not?
I think the feed’s edge re-direct flows Indipendently and it doesn’t matters the beginning of the rim/feed/scoop.
So you’re agreeing me?
Tell me your idea..
If you cut it the way I have, when you line the front edge of the scoop up, parallel with the back edge of the slam panel the outlet of the scoop is then pointing directly at the out let of the elbow in the filter box, so that the flex pipe is straight with no forced bend in it, just a change in height, also the flex is kept away from the engine block ......
WP_20170518_004.jpg


WP_20170523_001.jpg

If you don,t cut it and fit it in exactly the same place as I have done you will not be able to close the bonnet without it hitting the scoop... You also have to determine the length of the flex AFTER fitting both the scoop and the airfiter box, with the elbow fitted in place, then you can see what the gap and alignment is, between the two spigots, and what length of flex fills it without being compressed or stretched....I trial fitted the inlet scoop several times, holding it to the slam panel with double sided sticky tape, being sure that the bonnet would close, BEFORE permanently fitting it THEN I cut and fitted the flex pipe...... You will see from the difference in two pictures above that I still had to trim a small amount from the L.H. edge of the scoop, even after permanently fixing it, as it still rubbed on the underside of the bonnet...
 
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I'm not obligated to do this fortunately, i mean take attention to the bonnet because it's not fitted into the slam panel but in a lower and smaller subframe..then for that i'm completely in safe..
On the other side i don't have a big flat surface where i can easily fit the scoop, instead i am handcuffed for this, as you can see on my photo (#35th reply), so i need to drill on the nearest flat part of the scoop, and fit on the first flat part of the subframe..
Anyway thanks i'll sure pay attention for the final fitting..
Today i've glued the elbow to the pipe.
Tomorrow, when it is all dried i'll proceed with the installation..
Stay tuned.
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm not obligated to do this fortunately, i mean take attention to the bonnet because it's not fitted into the slam panel but in a lower and smaller subframe..then for that i'm completely in safe..
On the other side i don't have a big flat surface where i can easily fit the scoop, instead i am handcuffed for this, as you can see on my photo (#35th reply), so i need to drill on the nearest flat part of the scoop, and fit on the first flat part of the subframe..
Anyway thanks i'll sure pay attention for the final fitting..
Today i've glued the elbow to the pipe.
Tomorrow, when it is all dried i'll proceed with the installation..
Stay tuned.
All is clear, I thought that you were fitting it to a K12 Micra, so I now assume that your car is a Note?
 
Yeah it is, i’ve fitted the new intake hose, The gas pedal seems more responsive, more ready, it’s clearly a gain in term of the immediate availability need of air from the engine...
By the way, i’ve removed the rear seats, ( 50 kg)
The car Have a more responsitive steering and it
Feels lighter... consumption decreased 0.3l/100km
78800D2E-9CD1-40B8-B9EF-56BBF10058D4.jpeg
 
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John_D

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I assume that you took some 'before' acceleration readings? Be interesting to see what the change is 'after'..... :)
 
I assume that you took some 'before' acceleration readings? Be interesting to see what the change is 'after'..... :)
Yes i did.
A 60-100 km/h (7s), and a 0-100 (Me and 58kg person) 13s, without rear seat, and in gpl..like the original.
Maybe in petrol and Only me 12 fortunatelly
 
Re-tested with worst conditions, (9°C in front of 16 and lower humidity)
60-100 6s flat! Really nice gain, -1s gained!
i will test another time with similar conditions (16°C +-) and another comparison test with sprintfilter fitted.
(I have videos if you want i will post it out)
 
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