Help Wanted Please!!!!

Hi,

A few weeks ago the key to my 1999 V Reg 1.0 Auto K11 snapped. I got a none chip key cut and used the fob from the snapped key to start the car. I did this by holding it next to the code reader whilst turning the ignition on with the new cut key.

On numerous occasions, I have had the engine light flash, were it has not picked up the key. After a couple of attempts, the car just turns over with no firing of the engine. To help resolve this, I disconnected the battery, hoping that the ecu would reset and not think that a thief is trying to nick the vehicle. Once reconnected, the vehicle has worked.

Today, i had the same problem, except the engine would not restart. I removed the cover around the steering column and put the fob right next to the reader. nothing happened, the electrics tried to fire up the engine, but to no avail.

i managed to get the vehicle towed home, and have disconnected battery, and will try in the morning.

My question to you guys is......

Could the chip in the fob be knackered?
Could the reader be faulty?

I have contacted a mobile auto key programmer who has advised me to get the code from Nissans as this will be needed to get a key programmed. I contacted Nissan in Canterbury and they said that thay could not help. i needed to contact the main dealer....Glyn Hopkins, and get the code. Is this correct? I assumed that all details of nissans would be on a central database.

Could anyone please give me any ideas as to what the problem could be. Hopefully, it is just an issue with the key as the problem did not start until the key snapped and i used the broken fob and the key cut to start the engine.

Any comments and advice are most welcome!!!!!!!!!!!
 
NATS can be a very evil and sensitive thing. You ideally need to keep the chiped key near the reader at all times even after engine fires up. if you get it started again you could save your self some money and try and fit the non chiped key into the original snapped key, you can also pop the red square and there should be a chip inside, but becareful as damaging this could mean lots of money for nissan to recode your ecu. Sure someone else maybe able to give some better advice

peter
 
I Went out first thing this morning and checked the fuses for corrosion. Noe was present. I re-connected the battery, turned the ignition and the car fired for 2 secs then went dead. I then adjusted the position of the fob on the chipped key and it fired up.

Hopefully the issue is with the key.
 
could be that the engine is flooded because it has been turning over without firing.


if i ever had that problem i would go to a scrappy and find a non nats ECU or a nats one with a key. that does mean changing the locks, but it would probably be cheaper.

what you could to is detach the coil and glue the chip to it and just leave it like that.
 
NATS dont you just hate it, 3 ways around it, as nex said get none nats ecu and engine side of loom from scrappy pre 94 should do it, 2nd get ecu pickup ring and key + ignition barrell again from scrappy but if its facelift 99 again you will need engine loom, 3 and more expensive option is tow to nissan recode ecu and new key cost upowards of 100 quid, I have a 1.3 ecu pickup ring and chip from a 99 si but not sure if this would suit 1ltr model, its easy to tease the chip out of key and re glue in a new one
 
NATS dont you just hate it, 3 ways around it, as nex said get none nats ecu and engine side of loom from scrappy pre 94 should do it, 2nd get ecu pickup ring and key + ignition barrell again from scrappy but if its facelift 99 again you will need engine loom, 3 and more expensive option is tow to nissan recode ecu and new key cost upowards of 100 quid, I have a 1.3 ecu pickup ring and chip from a 99 si but not sure if this would suit 1ltr model, its easy to tease the chip out of key and re glue in a new one

as far as i know you shouldn't have to change the ecu loom, they are all the same, you can even plug and play a GA16 ecu, its all the same.
 
diddy

personally i would just glue the chip to the pickup ring, or fit a non nats (auto) ecu (as long as yours isnt a coilpack and/or hitachi t/b)
 
tape the origninal key to the pickup ring and use spare key is the cheapest option. Although this renders nats useless and makes your car a little easier to pinch but hey, becareful where you park it:p
 
Hi All,

I had two new keys cut and programmed for £60.00. Tried them all and both worked.
Went to use the car this morning, key was recognised by ECU as solid orange light went on, but the engine would not fire. Leads are clean, plugs are clean, fuse to fuel pump are not corroded. Last night the weather was damp. Could this be an issue with the start up? I have noticed from other forums that temp sensors can play up and put extra fuel into the system and flood it.

Can anyone give me some ideas as to what could be going wrong.

Regards

Karen
 
as far as i know you shouldn't have to change the ecu loom, they are all the same, you can even plug and play a GA16 ecu, its all the same.

sorry to burst your bubble but the engine side of loom from 99 facelift is differant to prefacelift loom, that is why i had to change it all in the si to suit the ecu i got to run it............but as the problem is solved then its HAPPY DAYS
 
Hi All,

I had two new keys cut and programmed for £60.00. Tried them all and both worked.
Went to use the car this morning, key was recognised by ECU as solid orange light went on, but the engine would not fire. Leads are clean, plugs are clean, fuse to fuel pump are not corroded. Last night the weather was damp. Could this be an issue with the start up? I have noticed from other forums that temp sensors can play up and put extra fuel into the system and flood it.

Can anyone give me some ideas as to what could be going wrong.

Regards

Karen

That happend with my red 1.0, it flooded, got my dad to tow me and at 40mph droped into fourth gear and bumped. This also work if you push it down a hill. once you have it runnign again take it for a blast and get the engine warm taking it through the rev range, should clear any crap.
 
Had this problem with my dads 2000 model Primera P11 144 today.

It needs a new ECu so i sourced a complete set from breakers. I got the ECU, Immobiliser box, ring from the barrel and key with chip.

Swapped it all over, fob works first time, locks/unlocks. But when you turn the key, car cranks but does not start.

I confident all the bits came off the same car, but just did not want to fire.

Put all the old bits back in and it fired first time.

So frustrating.

Going to back to scrappers on Fri as he says he has another Primera coming in and i can have the bits off that.
 
Had this problem with my dads 2000 model Primera P11 144 today.

It needs a new ECu so i sourced a complete set from breakers. I got the ECU, Immobiliser box, ring from the barrel and key with chip.

Swapped it all over, fob works first time, locks/unlocks. But when you turn the key, car cranks but does not start.

I confident all the bits came off the same car, but just did not want to fire.

Put all the old bits back in and it fired first time.

So frustrating.

Going to back to scrappers on Fri as he says he has another Primera coming in and i can have the bits off that.
 
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