HELP/ADVICE NEEDED!! NON-HUBCENTRIC SPACERS? DANGEROUS?

[Ihtisham Rauf]

Hello people,

Please read below as I am worried and need help:

I have 5mm spacers on front and 19mm spacers on back, these are the universal type and are non-hubcentric, meaning they have no lip, some people call them the shim type.

I have extended studs fitted in the rear, these are 20mm longer than the standard studs and since I only have 5mm spacers on front, I didnt bother putting extended studs in front, and now the studs fit flush with the lug nuts on the front, and they poke about 5mm from the lug nuts on the rear.

Now my worry is that am I putting too much strain on the studs?? since on both front and back, the wheel is being held on by only the studs as can be see in the photos attached.

Ive been running this setup for a few days and there is absolutely no vibration, weird noises or wheel wobble etc at any speed (up to 70mph).

I didn't really want to buy hubcentric spacers as their around £60 a pair but now am thinking I may have to as I dont want to run the risk of having a wheel falling off while I drive

 

[John_D]

View attachment 56140 View attachment 56141


Hello people,

Please read below as I am worried and need help:

I have 5mm spacers on front and 19mm spacers on back, these are the universal type and are non-hubcentric, meaning they have no lip, some people call them the shim type.

I have extended studs fitted in the rear, these are 20mm longer than the standard studs and since I only have 5mm spacers on front, I didnt bother putting extended studs in front, and now the studs fit flush with the lug nuts on the front, and they poke about 5mm from the lug nuts on the rear.

Now my worry is that am I putting too much strain on the studs?? since on both front and back, the wheel is being held on by only the studs as can be see in the photos attached.

Ive been running this setup for a few days and there is absolutely no vibration, weird noises or wheel wobble etc at any speed (up to 70mph).

I didn't really want to buy hubcentric spacers as their around £60 a pair but now am thinking I may have to as I dont want to run the risk of having a wheel falling off while I drive

I got my 20mm hubcentric spacers from these people, complete with extended wheel bolts for £36 inc p&p. They currently only list ones suitable for K12's with 60.1mm bore/spigot but might be worth asking them if they would do some for a K11 at a similar price......

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

I got my 20mm hubcentric spacers from these people, complete with extended wheel bolts for £36 inc p&p. They currently only list ones suitable for K12's with 60.1mm bore/spigot but might be worth asking them if they would do some for a K11 at a similar price......

Thanks for the advice but I keep getting confused by 'extended wheel bolts', do you mean the studs or actual bolts?

 

[John_D]

Thanks for the advice but I keep getting confused by 'extended wheel bolts', do you mean the studs or actual bolts?

Unlike the K11, which uses wheel studs, the K12, which is based on the same platform as the Renault Clio 3 (amongst others, see the hyperlink), uses wheel bolts to secure the wheels, hence the extended wheel bolts that I got with my spacers, the hubcentric spacers are about £10 cheaper, a pair, without the extended wheel bolts..........
The K12 spacers would fit the K11 (the same 4X100 PCD of the wheel studs) but would need spigot rings to reduce the 60.1 centre bore to the small spigot size (58.5?) of the K11 hubs.

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

Unlike the K11, which uses wheel studs, the K12, which is based on the same platform as the Renault Clio 3 (amongst others, see the hyperlink), uses wheel bolts to secure the wheels, hence the extended wheel bolts that I got with my spacers, the hubcentric spacers are about £10 cheaper, a pair, without the extended wheel bolts..........
The K12 spacers would fit the K11 but would need spigot rings to reduce the 60.1 centre bore to the small spigot size (58.5?) of the K11 hubs.

Okay so I could save £10 and just buy these hubcentric Spacers without the bolts and then use spigot rings to reduce center bore size from 60.1 to 56.1 or whatever it is, just confirming if this is okay?

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

Okay so I could save £10 and just buy these hubcentric Spacers without the bolts and then use spigot rings to reduce center bore size from 60.1 to 56.1 or whatever it is, just confirming if this is okay?

And sorry to keep bombarding you with questions but would you say my setup is dangerous?

 

[John_D]

And sorry to keep bombarding you with questions but would you say my setup is dangerous?

Not sure about 'dangerous', but I personally would not like to use wheels on the car that weren't located on a concentric spigot. Whith out this central location you are subjecting the wheel bolts/studs to shear stresses as well as clamping stress.......

 

[John_D]

Okay so I could save £10 and just buy these hubcentric Spacers without the bolts and then use spigot rings to reduce center bore size from 60.1 to 56.1 or whatever it is, just confirming if this is okay?

If I were you I'd first measure my hub spigot diameter, then get in contact with the people who supplied mine and ask if they would supply you the K12 ones with the smaller location diameter machined on them.....

 

[SuperUno]

I run 5mm spacers on the rally car (rear), but 20mm is too much IMHO....

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

If I were you I'd first measure my hub spigot diameter, then get in contact with the people who supplied mine and ask if they would supply you the K12 ones with the smaller location diameter machined on them.....

Okay I fully understand you now, thanks very much for the help.

 

[Ihtisham Rauf]

I run 5mm spacers on the rally car (rear), but 20mm is too much IMHO....

I see I see, just wanted to get the rear wheels lined up with the wheel arches as much as possible. Reckon I'll go for the hubcentric K12 Spacers with the smaller K11 bore as John says

 

[John_D]

I run 5mm spacers on the rally car (rear), but 20mm is too much IMHO....

That was my initial thought Matt, (though only based on bearing life). I was initially fitting 16mm rear spacers but found that the rear hub spigot on the K12 was about 16mm long, consequently the 16mm hubcentric spacers would not sit down on the hub. I finally decided that changing the rear hub bearings at perhaps 30K miles wasn't that much of a chore, as I already had fitted new ones when I first got the car, so settled for the 20mm ones that fit OK. Been on the car now for about 5K miles with no obvious problems (the rear wheel bearings on the K12 start to drone when they are worn).