Cluster I.D

[CMF_DECIM8]

Hey peoples,

Can someone please tell me two things...

Is this a super S tacho from a AUDM car? Pin 9 is broken, (right hand side plug, 2nd from the bottom pin) what does this pin do? Wiring diagrams I can find dont match this plug

Secondly, This is the Blue wire with black stripe which is technically the tacho, I do get voltage fluctuation when I test it so it much be tacho signal. It is going to pin 3 on the tacho however is this correct is this signal meant to be on pin 2????

Tacho is not working, has not been for some time I assumed it was due to pin 9 failing to work, this has no pin connected to it though can anyone suggest how to get a signal to the tacho firstly then I will work out why the tacho does not fire...

 

[CMF_deNs]

If the cluster doesn't have the MPH as the primary speed measurement and KPH inside that, then it's either from an Australian Super-S or a Jap K11. From a quick look at my picture folder of 'Clusters' it definitely looks more like an ADM/UK one. The Jap clusters tend to have quite different PCBs and even though all the plugs from your UK K11 might plug in, I haven't heard of a single person getting their Jap cluster working 100% right, even with the japanese senders to try and get the fuel/water temp gauges working (main issue).

I just looked up the workshop manual and that pin that's damaged is labelled as pin 1 of the cluster and it refers to the water temp gauge. You don't think there's any chance of soldering to the trace? Would be worth a shot.

It's late so I may not understand the question 100% correctly but you can either get an RPM signal from the wire on the ECU or you can get it from the negative lead of the coil (blue wire coming out of the dizzy/coil from memory).

---dens

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Thanks Dens, How did you work out its Pin one? It deffinately either pin 2 or pin 9.. Its second from the bottom on the right hand side.

Sorry I didnt mean the physical pin is broken.. That is the cluster pin is torn on the plastic/copper pin on the actual plug into the cluster.

I think that makes more sense.

 

[CMF_deNs]

Does it have Pin 2/9 marked on the PCB itself? I looked it up Nissan workshop manual. The cluster is actually drawn upside-down but since each of the plugs are unique in the amount of contacts points they have, I'm quite sure i'm looking at the right plug and have it the right way up

Have you plugged it in to see what is/isn't working apart from the tacho?

---dens

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Everything else works. Perfectly. So weird.

It has a 9 marked next to it in the photo. 9 or 6 haha.

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Dont happen to have a scanner do you>???? All I can find is this one.

According to that layout.. It is indeed pin 2 .. However looking at the plug I have.. I dont actually have a RPM signal to pin 2.. Its some other signal which looks like 12v power to me.

From what I take from the diagram I need to move the blue/black rpm signal to pin 2.. which is circled. but i could be wrong i guess

The pin circled is the one damaged on the pcb.

 

[CMF_deNs]

Sorry I think there's been a bit of a misunderstanding on my part - I have the same diagram and we're looking at the right thing but I honestly thought it was the pin in the corner (Pin 1) that was damaged. That diagram is the one from the workshop manual and you are right in that it will be that if it's that wire that's damaged, you're not going to get a signal to the tacho gauge.

It's unfortunate it's that contact that's causing you problems since it means you have to find another way to get the signal to the gauge. Since you say it looks like you're getting a signal to the wire up to the gauge, there's no point stuffing around with that anymore as for now I'd be focusing more on attempting to get a better connection to that contact for Pin 2. Worst case I can think of is that you could attempt to solder a wire to the trace (then protect it with some PCB lacquer or something) to get the connection from the Tacho wire to the gauge.

---dens

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Well so far you'll prob notice the wire ive soldered onto the PCB which is black which I will use as a jumper wire for the circuit. So far with my attempt I have yet to get it to work. I was looking for more info if the pins are in the in-correct position which will confrim my thoughts.

Now I just need a wiring diagram for the wire colours to confirm the position for each wire.

As you can see in the photo of the plug the blue wire is in pin 3 which should move down to pin 2. Lets hope that does not spoil the clock light.

Thanks I appreciate your help! I cant seem to find any other pins which goto the tacho so I can only assume that if I move the pin 3 to pin 2 and wire onto the pcb as ive done It should work. Prob wont though haha

 

[CMF_deNs]

Wish I could help more now but I'm at work and don't have access to any of my wiring diagrams I'll check them out if I get some time before I head out again tonight. I didn't notice the black wire you've soldered on there, but the impression from you is that the the connection at the plug was where it was bad rather than further along the trace as your wire jumping might suggest.

Between the plug connector and your two solder joints I'm assuming you tested it with a multimeter have good contact, yeah?

---dens

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Yeah, I felt it was the easiest option to do. I have not tested for continuity yet.. Its just a progress in the works atm. In terms of soldering to the PCB can I just scratch back the cover and solder in? I assume a jumper will achive the same purpose but unsure if those connections will work yet.

 

[CMF_deNs]

DECIM8 WROTE:

"Yeah, I felt it was the easiest option to do. I have not tested for continuity yet.. Its just a progress in the works atm. In terms of soldering to the PCB can I just scratch back the cover and solder in? I assume a jumper will achive the same purpose but unsure if those connections will work yet.

Yeah that's the method I'd try but my current question would be how durable is the circuit? From the looks of them they're just a flexible material rather than a solid plastic PCB in which case I'd be worried about melting the material. That said if you've already soldered onto existing points/traces without issue then go for it.

---dens

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

No ive soldered onto pins on the pcb I just followed the failed pin and soldered to where its pin out for the tacho was on the pcb. I have tried to solder to the plastic pcb but as you say it does melt.

 

[CMF_DECIM8]

Turns out that wire cannot be the tacho cable, its got power along with the fact that the terminal I soldered to has positive power too...

WTF is going on lol