Car stuttering/shuddering/cutting possible coil issue?

Coming home a week ago after a pull up a long hill hard in 2-3 I changed into 4th and with still some incline left my K11 started to shudder/stutter losing power, changed down and it went away a little, but then got worse as I got towards home, last few corners and it just felt down on power and would shudder/jerk/cut in and out bad in 4th.

Found some overly worn plugs (1.4mm gaps with nice round tips) and very dirty fuel filter and replaced those, also bad white corosion and worn pitted edge rotor button in dizzy, cleaned replaced those, took a test drive yesterday and it was actually worse, this was with new plugs and filter and cleaned dizzy cap.

Someone suggested fuel pump but during checking of filter etc I primed a few times getting like 1L or more with an ignition start prime, and it sounds ok.

Car will generally idle just fine, but on the test drive power was still down and the shudder when trying to hold it in gear and give it power was very bad, like cutting quite forcefully in and out, never making any real power in any gear now.

What I did do today was find the coil specs in the Haynes, primary is like .8ohm secondary 1.0K ohm, on testing mine I could not get the inner dust cap off, but from what I could measure from got 1.3 on the primary and 11.7K on the secondary, I'm hoping maybe I found the issue? (unless I'm measuring it wrong).

If nothing else can someone tell me what the secondary measures off a known good coil, and if a high resistance can or will cause the car to cut out so badly under load like mine is?.
(On the test drive it was cutting in and out so violently I had to slip the clutch to make it back up the hills to get it back home again).

Current personal theory is if the secondary is so high it's just not giving enough spark under load, yet with the primary okish it will start and idle fine, as it's getting signal and needs very little spark to idle or rev at idle with no load?.

Right now considering ordering a complete dizzy or replacement coil off ebay in the UK, locally in Australia the price would kill me, need to get my car back driveable asap.
 
under load = dodgy
not under load = fine
i had a clutch worn out doing that a few years back or like you said distributor
wait for some more suggestions though
is it the newer facelift? you got------prefacelift throttle body can be solderd/cleaned
 
Yeah I did wonder about the clutch at first (originally it felt like the car was losing drive, like a slip and grab repeat etc), engagement has not been great of late, but then the cable also feels half stuffed, in theory I was told the clutch was replaced when I got it about 6+ months ago, so brand new but then who knows if the cheaped out and only put in a friction plate, with the bad cable it's hard to tell if maybe the pressure plate or thrust whatever is maybe ######ed.

I did a few 4th gear stall tests last week, trying to take off in 4th it does not seem to be slipping or shuddering, just load up and stall, if it is clutch I think it's weird in some ways, it would help if I had a tacho but alas AU market did not get them in general.

And yeah mine is a 08/95 build, or 96 model here, which was the first we got, and then only got it till 98, shame when it's such a nice car, been meaning to maybe to the T/B, it's had some reluctance to rev and only ok fuel consumption maybe a drop less than it should at best.
 
I likely will during the week, picked up some fresh silicone Tuesday for that purpose, but considering I have yet to hear of the throttle body issue making the car undriveable (which mine now is), I have my doubts it will get it back on the road, maybe idle a but smoother and rev out a little better though.

Considering the issue I posed is that the ignition coil is 'well' out of spec, I'm still more inclined to believe that is my main fault, which is why I bought a new dizzy off ebay UK last night, likewise if I turn out wrong, I'll likely move on to buying a new fuel pump from the USA, after that I'll likely guess the last thing which seems possible and a 'very' rooted T/B, and get a new one of those from ebay UK.

Seems extreme, but then even with all those parts I'd still be ahead of getting it towed to a garage to fix, which I decided on the weekend I just can't afford to do, that would easily cost me half what I paid for the car.
 
I likely will during the week, picked up some fresh silicone Tuesday for that purpose, but considering I have yet to hear of the throttle body issue making the car undriveable (which mine now is), I have my doubts it will get it back on the road, maybe idle a but smoother and rev out a little better though.

Considering the issue I posed is that the ignition coil is 'well' out of spec, I'm still more inclined to believe that is my main fault, which is why I bought a new dizzy off ebay UK last night, likewise if I turn out wrong, I'll likely move on to buying a new fuel pump from the USA, after that I'll likely guess the last thing which seems possible and a 'very' rooted T/B, and get a new one of those from ebay UK.

Seems extreme, but then even with all those parts I'd still be ahead of getting it towed to a garage to fix, which I decided on the weekend I just can't afford to do, that would easily cost me half what I paid for the car.

I have driven one that was undrivable and the t-body was to blame
 
Ok, me buying a new dizzy could have been a huge waste of time, secondary resistance comes up the same on the new as the old, either the Haynes and online specs are wrong, or my multi meter is faulty.

I would still be greatly appreciative if someone could check theirs or a spare one they had access to, be nice to know for sure, or if I just got sold a dud?.

While on the subject of the new dizzy, are these things out of the UK usually a little rough?, my 'new' dizzy seems kind of rough around the edges, a touch of corrosion here and there, wires etc look sort of used but not, don't know if it's some weird rebuild and not truly new thing, or if maybe they are just rough from whoever makes them?.

Edit: New Dizzy is a 22100-41B00, are they actually the newest version, seems strange to me the other models run like 99B01-99B04.
 
Just to follow up my own issue...

We had some terrible weather here late last year, ended up with a good two months of rain blowing in under the house, which made it hard to do any work on my Micra, but...

It looks like the throttle body was the issue, which blows me away cause I don't think it was a 'typical' failure/fault, and I found so much else wrong thinking that must have been the issue, got around to resoldering the known dry joints in place (which I found a prick of a job), then a test drive later all now seems good, in fact better than that with new plugs dizzy cap etc.

Now I just have to finish getting all the mold out of the car from sitting in all the bad weather, then maybe I will get around to fixing what the car really needs done, other CV's tyres vague steering and much needed lowering.
 
hello caller whats your name? where you calling from?,,,,,,,,,,:grinning:
really happy to hear this! i get a warm feeling when a jap car breath's life again.
check in regular to the site!
 
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