alarm fitting?

bombz4

Ex. Club Member
Ive just bought a falcon predator alarm (cheapy ebay job) and omg im slightly affraid of wiring it up! especially trying to hide the wires! but having never taken the console apart im realy quite affraid of damaging my car! i need to find the wiring for the following-interior light,ignition start, ignition acc, handbrake light,rpm?(power to the tach?) and alternator (unsure which cable). Is there a module that most electrics run through? basically has anyone fitted an alarm to their k10 ? or anyone got any tips? also i am unsure where to place the actual shock sensor and microwave sensor? I got an advert with the alarm for a fitting company but id rather not get ripped off and do it myself!fwn bomb
 
What wires go where?

The shock sensor, siren and main control unit are proberley best located on the firewall in the engine bay. You could put them in the dash but theres not much room and a K10 dash is pretty open.

The microwave sensor should be located under the front seats as close to the middle of the car as possible, or possibley inside the centre console.

Ignition start - I guess this is to do with an immobiliser and is used to break the circuit with a relay, need some more specific info on this.

Ignition acc (red) - can be found easily in any car at the back of the car radio.

Interior light - would have to look in the haynes manual to see what colour the cable is proberley runs to the fuse/relay block on the drivers side. You could get to it by the door switches.

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UPDATE: must be for remote engine start (would not bother with it on a K10, proberley wont work that well)

RPM - To make sure it knows when the cars started, dont know anything about this as I dont have a rev meter on mine.

Handbrake light - To make sure that it will only remote start when the handbreak is on. This is easy to locate by removing the centre console, just a few screws very easy really. Sould be an electrical cable that connects to the handbrake switch.

---------Still not sure about this:

Alternator - This is either to do with provideing power to the alarm (+ve to battery) or for connecting to any accessory that you dont want to set of the alarm when its used, eg a fan. This could also be for a battery backup siren, if so you could just wire it onto the battery (+ve).

Opinion & Installation

To be honest you should be able to fit the alarm without removing your dash board. The easiest way to hide the cables is to put them under the carpet, in routing the microwave sensor you may need to make a tiny slit in the carpet to get the cable from underneath it to under the seat. If you remove the door trim you find its easy to put stuff under the carpet.

Most of the wires you will need will run into the back of the radio, to the car body, the battery or around the ignition switch. Take each wire one at a time as long as you dont power up the alarm you dont even have to do it all in one sitting.

Serious alarm fitters aim to make every cable very hard to get to and do not make them colour coded or distinguishable from the original wiring loom. But the install is only as strong as its weakest link (could give examples of obvious weak links but proberley shouldnt). Hopefully a thief would not bother trying to steal a K10 if its got an alarm/immobiliser anyway.

I am by no means an expert, just knowledge from personnel experiance. Heck maybe someone on here fits alarms for a living and can advise you more.

Essential tools & top tips:

- Electrical tape - to cover exposed wires and hold stuff in place.
- Electrical connection blocks - simple way to join wires just screw them in each side, cant really be used under the carpet tho.
- Screw driver or other sharp point - for making small wholes in the carpet or any rubber grommets to pass wires into the engine bay.
- old coat hanager - can be used to navigate wire through tight or difficult spaces.
- Wire cutters, strippers and electrical screw driver
 
andrewb150 said:
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UPDATE: must be for remote engine start (would not bother with it on a K10, proberley wont work that well)
andrew why do you doubt the engine start? :down: just because its a no throttle start on an old engine? or are there other reasons? i have seen remote sterts on far worse cars!
 
bombz4 said:
andrew why do you doubt the engine start? :down: just because its a no throttle start on an old engine? or are there other reasons? i have seen remote sterts on far worse cars!

Sometimes K10's dont start unless you press the accellerator first.
 
You beat me to it Arnold. Also I leave mine in gear to make sure it doesnt roll away!
 
I only need to put my foot on the accelerator in the winter, but my dad told me to do it all the time coz it saves strain on the battery or somethin!!!!
 
Retepetsir said:
By doing so you set the automatic choke.

Yep! the autochoke in my old carb was nackered which is why it never used to start at all lol!!
 
help!!!!

finaly made the time to start fitting the alarm but after a few blown fuses and lots of disconnecting an prodding with a multimeter im still stuck! can someone tell me what each wire is for on the ignition barrel? what is channel 3/total closure output? (is this only for cars equipt for window closure?). where can i find the wire for the handbrake light? ( i got scared after taking the console outer case off i didnt want to open the actual console ((is it straight forward if i do)) can i find it any where else?) where is the coil for the tach? does a k10 have acc2? sorry for getting abit technical! i could probably do it im just affraid! i already had to put another drill hole in my dash and i dont like defacing my car!:glance:
 
I can't remember the colours of any of the cables on the ignition barrel, look in a Haynes mannual. If you don't have one buy one from ebay, got mine for £3 inc P&P, there not perfect but better than nothing.

In answer to your Q's:

what is channel 3/total closure output? Either to do with window closing or central locking, neither of which concerns you. (don't connect)

the handbrake light? don't connect (remote start)

Where is the coil for the tach? don't connect (remote start)

does a k10 have acc2? no, don't connect

I would have thought you would have had more trouble connecting to the interior light circuit and indicators.

Anyway good luck, just try connecting the bare essentials, eg. microwave sensor and alarm power, siren and LED. At least then you will have a working alarm, other stuff should be able to be fitted later.
 
cheers andy was begining to think that i wouldnt get a reply. You've actually hit the nail on the head! i haven't connected the interior light or the indicators!
as for the interior light i havent even looked into it yet. any tips?
and i do have a haynes and wow! i would have never thought that indicator circuits were so complex! even my avionics tutor (aircraft electronics) couldn't even give me a clear idea on which cable i needed to light the hazards!!!! which kind of scared me because he is usually very competant.

as for the ignition after some logical thinking if tomorow i quickly conect two wires to a 12v bulb i can work out which wire is which. (il try the haynes first tho)

as for the remote start although i have been told it isn't going too work, i feel that ive got it so i might aswell try it! (i think if the choke was left open slightly it should work, its manual because i've got a webber on.)

also my alarm only has one port for a sensor i have currently connected a shock sensor but i also have a microwave sensor. im unsure wether i can connect both together or not through the same port (it seems a waste of time attempting this for it to fail) any ideas?

again thanks for the reply and i am slowly getting there!!
 
Fair play with a manual choke the remote start will proberley work, cant really help with wiring that up as Ive never done it.

Id rather connect the microwave sensor than the shock sensor, but you should be able to connect both in parallele. The only reasons that this might not work is if the alarm its self can not support enough amps to power both units or if they have different trigger outputs. This is proberley not the case, seeing as you bought them as a package.

If I remember correctley the door switches are push to break switches and connect to ground, if the wire on the alarm is for a negative door input (most likley) it needs to go anywhere on the lead connecting the door switches to the light.

Ed. Already told you how to wire the indicator lights, running a wire to each side of the car from the alarm. I imagine that the diodes are there to protect the alarm when the indicators are on in normal operation. Now Im not going to argue with Ed because he's normally right, but you could try connecting to the broken side of the hazard light switch (thus bypassing the switch).
 
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