Hi all was just wondering if either of these set ups were better/easier to fit/run better as think my dads found a 100nx being broken and might get the brakes off it and sell my pulsar ones, dependent on results from this haha!
100nx vs GTIR brakes
- Thread starter mottymicra
- Start date
There are two types of 100NX brakes.
on 1.6L -> AD18V (and rear drum brakes), These are also found on normal Pulsars
on 2.0L -> AD22F (calipers both rear & front), These are also found on Pulsar GTi-R's
Both will fit,but both need washers to fit properly. If you are in the UK, you'll probably only find AD18V's, since there are hardly no SR20-powered GTI NX's
Good luck with the conversion!
on 1.6L -> AD18V (and rear drum brakes), These are also found on normal Pulsars
on 2.0L -> AD22F (calipers both rear & front), These are also found on Pulsar GTi-R's
Both will fit,but both need washers to fit properly. If you are in the UK, you'll probably only find AD18V's, since there are hardly no SR20-powered GTI NX's
Good luck with the conversion!
OP
OP
Thanks a lot! The main area I was wondering about was the brake diameter because apparently the gti-r ones rub so wondered if the 100nx ones did too...
AD22VF are typically easier to obtain than AD18V in the UK, as they are fitted to the GTI-R and are always up for sale due to them upgrading to bigger setups.
Personally, if you can get hold of a set of AD18V, I would recommend them over the AD22VF. They are significantly lighter and will fit under 13" wheels and hardly anyone on here warrants brakes larger than that unless they are doing some form of racing. On a daily driver or fast road car AD18V will be plenty.
The disc rubbing on the caliper body is something I will never get my head around. It does seem to be an issue with the AD22VF setup and the only reason I can think of is that someone has altered the disc diameter slightly somewhere along the line, as both Nis and I have had them fitted to the car since 2003 and we have never experienced any kind of issues with them.
OP
OP
Ah awesome thanks a lot for your help! Looks like I shall whack my calipers on the but sell then 
pollyp
Club Member
unless ur on forced induction with high bhp AND you stress the brakes on fast circuit trackdays I think the ad22vf is abit of an overkill on a n/a and especially if its only used on street
each brake setup has a certain optimum operating temperature window.
brakes basically convert the cars kinetic energy into heat energy (heat also affects how grippy the pads are, more grippy <=> more heat upto a certain max) which is then dissipated/cooled into the surrounding air at a certain rate. higher the kinetic energy, the higher the heat energy
the stock brakes would have a low energy range (gets upto operating temp very quickly for best braking but starts to overheat/fade after awhile of abuse), the gtir brakes are a huge lump and has a higher energy range (least efficient during cold street driving and requires certain amount of heat energy from several decelerations before it begins to operate effectively and can withstand a high amount of heat energy) which means:
-yes it has alot of mass and vents to heat soak/dissipate any heat away from the pads
-the larger diameter offers more leverage BUT
-its over twice as heavy as the stock setup
-alot of unsprung/inertia weight
-slightly decreased handling & performance
-the effective cooling means the pads (depending on pad material) may not get upto operating temperature during low energy use (cold street driving or low powered NA) so the braking performance may not be allowed to become as good as a less powerful brake setup
-longer pedal stroke due to larger caliper piston so requires abit of pedal adjustment
matching the braking system operating window to the intended application is important to get the most out of it.
In the same way that you get the most traction from ur tyres at the point when its just about to spin (during acceleration) or skid (during braking) you get the most braking performance just before the pad temperature begins to peak & fade & the disc can't dissipate anymore heat fast enough, so you then match that peak temperature with the highest amount of energy that ur application could throw at it (for normal roads lets say at most its a high speed motorway emergency stop)
actually on a similar note, tyres should be the first priority before upgrading the brakes next. powerful brakes and engines are useless if the tyres can't offer enough traction
each brake setup has a certain optimum operating temperature window.
brakes basically convert the cars kinetic energy into heat energy (heat also affects how grippy the pads are, more grippy <=> more heat upto a certain max) which is then dissipated/cooled into the surrounding air at a certain rate. higher the kinetic energy, the higher the heat energy
the stock brakes would have a low energy range (gets upto operating temp very quickly for best braking but starts to overheat/fade after awhile of abuse), the gtir brakes are a huge lump and has a higher energy range (least efficient during cold street driving and requires certain amount of heat energy from several decelerations before it begins to operate effectively and can withstand a high amount of heat energy) which means:
-yes it has alot of mass and vents to heat soak/dissipate any heat away from the pads
-the larger diameter offers more leverage BUT
-its over twice as heavy as the stock setup
-alot of unsprung/inertia weight
-slightly decreased handling & performance
-the effective cooling means the pads (depending on pad material) may not get upto operating temperature during low energy use (cold street driving or low powered NA) so the braking performance may not be allowed to become as good as a less powerful brake setup
-longer pedal stroke due to larger caliper piston so requires abit of pedal adjustment
matching the braking system operating window to the intended application is important to get the most out of it.
In the same way that you get the most traction from ur tyres at the point when its just about to spin (during acceleration) or skid (during braking) you get the most braking performance just before the pad temperature begins to peak & fade & the disc can't dissipate anymore heat fast enough, so you then match that peak temperature with the highest amount of energy that ur application could throw at it (for normal roads lets say at most its a high speed motorway emergency stop)
actually on a similar note, tyres should be the first priority before upgrading the brakes next. powerful brakes and engines are useless if the tyres can't offer enough traction
pollyp
Club Member
if you are considering the ad22vf here's afew info on my blog
here i receive and overhaul the brakes
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-3#post-394623
upgraded to grooved discs but found the pulsar disc bore is slightly larger than k11 hub causing vibration and rubbing the caliper
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-3#post-396604
centred the disc on the hub with layers of tape reducing vibration but still rubs the caliper when hot
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-4#post-396800
the calipers on the k11 hub sits abit closer to the disc than on a pulsar so the discs were lathed 2mm to clear it
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-7#post-409479
fitted braided hoses to reduce the spongy feel
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-4#post-397419
here i receive and overhaul the brakes
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-3#post-394623
upgraded to grooved discs but found the pulsar disc bore is slightly larger than k11 hub causing vibration and rubbing the caliper
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-3#post-396604
centred the disc on the hub with layers of tape reducing vibration but still rubs the caliper when hot
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-4#post-396800
the calipers on the k11 hub sits abit closer to the disc than on a pulsar so the discs were lathed 2mm to clear it
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-7#post-409479
fitted braided hoses to reduce the spongy feel
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-4#post-397419
OP
OP
Thanks polly more help than I could ask for. I already have the ad22vf's but think I am gunna sell them now, don't need that much stopping power, and I'm sure when I do take it round track the ad18v's will have plenty of stop in them thanks a lot man
thanks a lot man
My issue with them Paul is definitely their high mass. On short circuits like Brands hatch there's very little time to cool them between corners and both times have come back blue, which is less than ideal in my mind. They've never faded off but they did get pretty cooked a few times and on an N/A setup any reduction on rotational mass is worth consideration at the very least. On longer circuits this was not an issue, so perhaps I am just being a picky SOB
I spec'd up a front brake package utilizing a larger vented disc which had an equivalent mass to an OEM disc together with a lightweight caliper that resulted in an overall package with less unsprung weight than the standard setup. It's still on paper for the moment but offered significant performance advantages and the ability to provide a tweakable operating range by way of a large range of available pad compounds.
I spec'd up a front brake package utilizing a larger vented disc which had an equivalent mass to an OEM disc together with a lightweight caliper that resulted in an overall package with less unsprung weight than the standard setup. It's still on paper for the moment but offered significant performance advantages and the ability to provide a tweakable operating range by way of a large range of available pad compounds.
