Cg engine swap

engine, box (although you can use yours), mounts, wiring loom (if you go bike crabs i have a manifold:grinning:)

its easy but with mine ive just gone about it the wrong way. kev is the man to ask here defiantly (Y)
 
its easy i think a child could do it :laugh:

basically unbolt and disconnect everything from the ma, drop it out and take your gearbox off and fit it to the cg. you will want to use the cg engine and gearbox mounts. bolt the engine back in simple as that (bear in mind you will have to modify the drivers side engine mount by moving it forward and re-welding it). have you ever took an engine out of a car before? if not i will do you a guide or you could use a haynes if you have one. its easy just remember where everything goes. how i see it is everything goes back on to reverse of how it came off.

things will become hard when it comes to the wiring however as kev just said in my blog its easy as 4 wires just dont make the same mistake as me by getting a nats loom haha.

also remember if you use a cg gearbox you will need to chop you gear selector and turn it 90 degrees and weld back up.

and one last thing if you get a cg13 you will need to use a cg10 flywheel and clutch. unless you want to chop your driveshafts and sleeve and weld them or get custom ones.
 
haha yeah me almost being one but i cant abandon it now :grinning:

Me neither I've just got a t2 delivered so I can restart my ma12t project, just need to sort out my new living arrangements, as I've got a million boxes full of stuff in barns and stables all around the farm :)
 
Me neither I've just got a t2 delivered so I can restart my ma12t project, just need to sort out my new living arrangements, as I've got a million boxes full of stuff in barns and stables all around the farm :)

ah sweet so your coming back to micra world now then?
 
yeah why not mate welding is easy when you get the hang of it just remember to prep your work pieces and you should get a nice weld. hand work with the welder is important also little tiny side to side movements moving along your work piece should give you the nice bead you want. a decent weld should look like a load of c's overlapping each over.
 
if you want to learn ALOT and do a conversion at some point in your life , then cg13 on injections is the one to do :nod:

i documented my progress fairly well but if you get stuck dont hesistate to ask questions on my blog.

i have the info here now to make a simple how to for the wiring. imo it was virtually the easiest part of the conversion :) and i hate wiring and iam colour blind :D
 
Jus quick question, coz I'm on eBay having a look how much this will cost, would I need the hubs, suspension arms, drive shafts, basically the whole front on the k11. Is there a certain year of car I should be looking at?
 
well which way you gonna do it? are you going to use your box or a pre 98 cg10 box? cause if you use any of these you dont need the shafts or suspension arms or hubs.

if you use a cg13 box you will need the driveshafts and you will be better getting the hubs as well if you go down this route.

but you don't need the suspension arms mate.
 
Well I was thinking of getting k11 hubs anyway for better brakes, Iv only got a 4spd box so would like a 5, so probably go down the route of having a Cg box...... So I'd have to mod the driveshafts then?
 
ah right. well you will have to mod the shafts if you get the cg13 gearbox if you use the cg10 gearbox you can just use your current shafts. but you will have to fit a cg10 flywheel and clutch onto the cg13 engine so the cg10 box fits (Y) i hope im not confusing you lol
 
So..... I will want a cg13 engine, cg10 gearbox, flywheel and clutch, my drive shafts from my k10 will be fine, k11 hubs
 
all the k11 hubs are the same, its the pre-face 1.0 k11 gbox that fits the k10 shafts eh :)

ah right its all this talk of cg's confusing me :laugh: cheers for clearing that up(Y) cause im going to be getting a set of hubs when i get my other bits next week.
 
Wot bout loom and stuff, read on yours bout a nats loom? And should avoid that( whatever that is)

(have patience with me, if I Dnt ask I Dnt know....besides this is what these forums are for(Y))
 
yeah ya have to ask mate (Y) the nats wiring loom is defiantly not the loom you want. you want the wiring loom from a early micra around anything earlier than 95 and ecu.
 
Cool, have a good idea of what o need to be looking for now, have plenty off tools/space, jys need welder. I'm reasonably good at takin things apart and rebuilding them, I maintain compressors for a living, jus never messed about with cars till now, so should be slot of fun (/frustration) learning all of this
 
haha i would say maintaining compressors is harder than this:laugh: good learning curve tho. anything you need to know just ask mate (Y)
 
Did this conversion recently to a PAO. Full K11 ECU integration, Full K11 running gear. Its something I can see getting more popular for Fusion.
 
I know I'll get asked for them more as people realise that I do them.
 
From what Iv read, all I'm gunna need welding is the engine mounts, would you be able to make me those? Lol
 
its only one mount that needs doing mate. i haven't moved mine tho. i just used a ma10 head bolt, a big tube spacer, and made a new bracket that needs bolting in. :grinning:
 
haha i just find stuff easy except when it comes to electrics lol. i think people just think its a bigger job than it actually is and not just that a lot of k10 owners like to keep them original i think. but i think it should be done more often more tuning parts for the cg and a tad more reliable as well. im not slating the ma lumps tho i just think it makes more sense to go cg.
 
the fuel supply is probably the biggest hurdle :eek: a fig or ST tank and pump would cost a bundle, and i guess an "in tank" pump needs to be immersed in fuel to keep it cool :eek:
 
the fuel supply is probably the biggest hurdle :eek: a fig or ST tank and pump would cost a bundle, and i guess an "in tank" pump needs to be immersed in fuel to keep it cool :eek:

yeah true i will probably opt for a setup similar to kev's i would of preferred an intank one but like you say cost and finding one. how reliable are the out of tank pumps frank?
 
From what Iv read, all I'm gunna need welding is the engine mounts, would you be able to make me those? Lol

Not true. Its not as simple as that 3 mounts needs welding and the gear linkage and exhaust system, then the wiring for the efi and fuel system.
 
the fuel supply is probably the biggest hurdle :eek: a fig or ST tank and pump would cost a bundle, and i guess an "in tank" pump needs to be immersed in fuel to keep it cool :eek:

Not wishing to point out the obvious, but its the fuel flowing through it that cools it, not what sits around it.
 
i only have one modded mount on my car and the cut and turned 90* g/linkage.

cg13 with cg10 flywheel, clutch, gearbox and mounts all from prefacelift. then one modded mount and the front stabilser is cut and rewelded slightly different.

wiring cant be hard cose i got mine running within 20mins.

hardest part is making the fuel system nice and adequate. swirl pot requires 2 pumps, more plumbing and more wiring. figaro tank on ebay 100 with pump.

defo need to look into the k11 tank me thinks
 
Not true. Its not as simple as that 3 mounts needs welding and the gear linkage and exhaust system, then the wiring for the efi and fuel system.

kev (machisan) only had one welded mount and used cg mounts if i remember rightly?:confused: ive fitted mine without any welded mounts yet but it does need to be shifted to the left about 3/4's of an inch. im wondering now if i have to extend the passenger side box mount? i used the cg pre98 1.0 box and mount. i still need to locate a rear box mount.

the mount at the drives side (top engine mount) i just used a head bolt from the ma10 with a nut and long spacer with an L bracket on the end to support it the L bracket will be bolted to the chassis leg.
 
i only have one modded mount on my car and the cut and turned 90* g/linkage.

cg13 with cg10 flywheel, clutch, gearbox and mounts all from prefacelift. then one modded mount and the front stabilser is cut and rewelded slightly different.

wiring cant be hard cose i got mine running within 20mins.

hardest part is making the fuel system nice and adequate. swirl pot requires 2 pumps, more plumbing and more wiring. figaro tank on ebay 100 with pump.

defo need to look into the k11 tank me thinks

haha i thought so this is all getting confusing lol. :laugh:
 
I use the later 1.3 gearbox. Much stronger than the early 1.0 (which is basically the same as a K10 gearbox)

I cant imagine why you even need to consider a swirl pot?
 
I use the later 1.3 gearbox. Much stronger than the early 1.0 (which is basically the same as a K10 gearbox)

I cant imagine why you even need to consider a swirl pot?

what sort of power can the 1.3 box hold ed? im thinking of going down that route when i get some cash together for the shafts cause i think 1.3 and a turbo is on the cards for me.

i think kev just went down the swirl pot route to get his running and the issue of finding a tank. my reason is my garage is 17ft by 8ft and its full of crap so no space to change the tank at the min and i have double yellows everywhere round my area so traffic wardens get annoying :laugh:
 
Just fit an in line pump under the car that's all we did.

1.3 box will take 200hp ok and wont blow up too often!
 
Back
Top