Wishbone Rear Mount Jack Stability

[tooManyNotes]

Hello all,

I wish to lift the front of the vehicle. I don't want to use the sills because they give me trust issues. I was just wondering about the stability and slip risk where the jack contacts the wishbone rear mount.

I did a test lift, I aligned the jack perpendicular to the vehicle, aligned the swivelly part with the wishbone mount, and partially jacked up the vehicle:

It seems stable but I don't have a much feel for how much force is going through the contact point between the jack and the wishbone mount. The four contact points are rather small as well. is there a slip risk? can those contact points on the wishbone mount fold?

Would this also be fine with the rear of the vehicle being on axle stands?:

Thanks for taking the time to read my post.

Thanks,

tooManyNotes

 

[marco2002]

I usually jack the front up on the rear wishbone mount as in your picture as long as you get the jack central and turn the 4 points round so that they are either side of the mount at 9 o'clock to 3 o'clock then the other 2 points will be at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock if that makes sense. I have seen people put the axle stands under the roll bar bush. As you said the front sill jack points do have a tendency to bend. The axle stands on the back look fine. I use a couple of railway sleepers underneath the bottom of the rear springs and that has always felt secure...

 

[tooManyNotes]

Do you mean like this?

Because I tried that but unfortunately as the diagram shows, the points aren't wide enough and touch the edges of the wishbone mount slightly.

Aah never thought of putting the axle stands there instead. that seems nice and sturdy. Like this?

Will this be stressful on the mount since the contact point it very small (red arrow)? should I add a cloth to spread out the load a bit?

Should I also jack the vehicle here instead?

Nice idea with the railway sleepers, nothing more certain than a solid block of material

Thanks,

tooManyNotes

 

[marco2002]

Hi the first picture if you were looking at the jack cup straight on the point would be lined up straight ahead. I have two jack's one has a small cup and the other has a larger cup. The smaller one will just allow the mount to sit in it and just touches the sides doesn't cause any issues. I've never had any slipping issues as long as you are on level ground and not on a hill. The last picture is that the front or the back of car? What part are you jacking on? The same principle goes for the rear main beam but make sure the cut outs line up under the main beam and not on the points if that makes sense.

 

[tooManyNotes]

The wishbone mount is too big to sit in the jack cup so I wanna put axle stands under the wishbone mount as you mentioned. The last image is a diagram of the front, here's a picture instead, shall I just jack up at the point indicated by the arrow:

 

[marco2002]

That looks like box section. To be honest I wouldn't put a jack on that have a feeling it might crumple up. Your jack must have a tiny cup on it as most of the jack's I've had in the past are 40mm diameter which is enough. Not sure what else to suggest. Can you borrow a jack off a friend? I always jack on the wishbone mount definitely not on the sill lol...
Maybe someone else will answer your question

 

[tooManyNotes]

Oh wait I can just remove the cup from the jack and the wishbone can sit in the thing the cup sits in:

 

[marco2002]

That would do it. Problem solved

 

[tooManyNotes]

Tried it, worked nicely. Front up on axle stands now, thanks for taking the time to respond : )

 

[marco2002]

No problem at all. That's what this forums all about helping other Micra owners. My Micra passed the MOT yesterday so quite relieved and no advises either not bad for a 23yr old car. Lol. I think eventually the whole drivers side sill will need replacing at some point it rusted from the inside out. The prefacelifts don't seem to rust out as bad as the facelifts. I've got a facelift Micra for spare parts and the sills are rotten both sides. On the preface lift k11I had to rebuild the middle section inside 18 inches long. Took 2 weeks to weld it up as weather here was so bad....

 

[tooManyNotes]

Nice, I''m sure you'll get it to 1 million miles aha . I plan on keeping this as my daily driver for ever, should be a fun challenge figuring out what's required to keep it going for ever. How long do you think it would take to get reasonably poficient with welding / basic metal forming? I see the body as the biggest challenge! I hope to get a pre facelift some day, 4 doors are cool, and me and the bros all learnt to drive in the same pre facelift.

 

[marco2002]

It's the fabrication of the metal that takes the time the bending shaping etc.ive been welding on and off for 9 years the hardest part is setting up the welder once you have done a lot of test welds on scrap metal then you can begin. Worst thing you can do is rushing the jobI always look at the penetration on the backside of the metal your welding as that determines how strong your welds are. I use wire and gas some people use fluxcore I found it horrible stuff to weld with. One thing with thin car bodywork 0.6mm is so thin it's easy to blow holes in so you have to do lots of spot welds and overlap them so it looks like a continuous weld takes ages to do but it stops the heat buildup and keeps body panel distortion to a minimum. You can't run a continuous weld on thin sheet metal either. what I have found best is to use the highest setting possible for the shortest possible time literally count 1000 2000 and that's how long it takes....