timings for ron 95 and 98

[CMF_david (2)]

what timings should be used to get the most out of each of these fuels?

How easy is it to change/set the timing?

What tools are required?

How do i do it/if a diy person can?

I notice my friends holden barina just has a nice plug to easily switch to and from 95 to normal. Has anyone had experience with this? Does it actually get u further / litre than normal?

 

[CMF_sikK11]

wont get you much. Not sure how to adjust on a micra as i have never looked but to get better F/E and power you need to put it on a dyno to get the proper results from it. Not really worth doing in my opinion. Just put fuel in it and drive. You should be looking more at o2 sensor and tyre pressures if you want to get more out of the fuel.

 

[CMF_frank2]

15 deg normally david, and you just need a 12mm ringspanner to slacken the 2 bolts that hold the dizzy on (the holes are slotted so that you can twist the dizzy round)
i always mark the front slot for reference, and try out a few different settings

frank

 

[CMF_david (2)]

frank2 WROTE:

"15 deg normally david, and you just need a 12mm ringspanner to slacken the 2 bolts that hold the dizzy on (the holes are slotted so that you can twist the dizzy round)<BR>
i always mark the front slot for reference, and try out a few different settings<BR>
<BR>
frank

Is that for ron 95?

What about ron 98?

Since e10 furl is ron 95 would people recommend doing this if e10 and premium fuels were to be used consistently?

 

[CMF_david (2)]

sikK11 WROTE:

"wont get you much. Not sure how to adjust on a micra as i have never looked but to get better F/E and power you need to put it on a dyno to get the proper results from it. Not really worth doing in my opinion. Just put fuel in it and drive. You should be looking more at o2 sensor and tyre pressures if you want to get more out of the fuel.

Is there an easy diy check for the o2 sensor? For cleaning/repairing it?

 

[CMF_Micra_King]

Normally you replace the o2 sensor after 150,000km mark. There is a way to test it but I cant remember how its done but you might be able to find it via search on here. You cant clean them to make them work like new. How many k's you getting from each full tank? easiest way to see if the sensor is working.

 

[CMF_sikK11]

yeah there is a way but i cant remember either. Think its to do with the ecu isnt it. Cant remember but either way NSM can get them pretty cheap and its well worth doing.

Plus you wont find better help then Nick

 

[CMF_david (2)]

frank2 WROTE:

"15 deg normally david, and you just need a 12mm ringspanner to slacken the 2 bolts that hold the dizzy on (the holes are slotted so that you can twist the dizzy round)<BR>
i always mark the front slot for reference, and try out a few different settings<BR>
<BR>
frank

When you say 15 degrees is that like angle degrees?

Which way is that? Clockwise or anticlockwise for the part that will be loose.

 

[CMF_frank2]

david WROTE:

When you say 15 degrees is that like angle degrees?

Which way is that? Clockwise or anticlockwise for the part that will be loose.

you need a strobe pointed at the crank pulley david, and its 15 deg before TDC @ idle with the TPS disconnected iirc.
i would just mark the original position and try some different settings (a little at a time)
and rotating it anticlock (the same way as the engine turns will retard it, and visa-versa)
most cars will "pink" with too much advance but CG,s are very det resistant and tend to just feel "coarse/rough" when overadvanced
(is yours still on LPG btw ? because that is high octane and likes a lot of advance)

frank

 

[CMF_david (2)]

it is still lpg but it is some sort of injection one. I don't know if fiddling with the dizzy might adversely combine with the lpg comuter thing.

I might see if i can advance my vfriends non lpg super s first.

P.s. I didn't understand the stuff about tdc, tps and how to use the strobe.

 

[CMF_frank2]

no it wont affect your injector emulator/piggyback thingy david, and you are losing some performance/milage by running on LPG with the stock ignition timing settings, mine is probably around 25 deg BTDC (before top dead center) as i have no petrol tank and run only LPG with raised compression

frank

 

[CMF_david (2)]

so as mine is dual fuel, if i can advance it 15 degrees and run both 95 ron and lpg, would it not be better to use 98 ron as my petrol and advance the timing a bit more? How much more could i advance it?

 

[CMF_frank2]

david WROTE:

"so as mine is dual fuel, if i can advance it 15 degrees and run both 95 ron and lpg, would it not be better to use 98 ron as my petrol and advance the timing a bit more? How much more could i advance it?

it depends what yours is set at now david (a mechanic would check it for a fee no probs)
and my adjusting slot is advanced about 3 or 4mm more on gas
if you have too much retard the car will be hesitant (a bit like turbo lag )and as long as you mark the original setting (a deep scratch or a dab of paint) you can always return to it no probs

frank

 

[CMF_1300cc]

question 4 u frank,

i have the nissan data scan cable...can i use this to test on how much i can adjust the timing? the way i understand it is it can be change but the ecu wont retain it once the nissan data cable is unplugged...

 

[CMF_frank2]

1300cc WROTE:

"question 4 u frank,

i have the nissan data scan cable...can i use this to test on how much i can adjust the timing? the way i understand it is it can be change but the ecu wont retain it once the nissan data cable is unplugged...

that is my understanding too, baguete is the expert on stock ecu,s atm, he may advise ?

frank

 

[CMF_1300cc]

wat i mean is if once im happy with the settings then i can adjust with a timing light, correct?

 

[CMF_frank2]

1300cc WROTE:

"wat i mean is if once im happy with the settings then i can adjust with a timing light, correct?

i guess so, autodata say,s 15 deg @ 650 rpm, and haynes say,s to disconnect the throttle position sensor while setting it

frank