Throttle Body replaced and no result... Clueless now, help pls!

A

azizulhye

Hi everyone,
I'm new to the forum and am in need of desperate help with my K11.

2 weeks ago, my wouldn't turn over and it was a result of needing a new dizzy cap.
So I replaced that along with a rotor arm and at the same time gave it a mini service of spark plugs, ht leads, fuel filter, air filter and oil filter with new oil.

The next day, giving its first run after fitting the new parts; the car started jerking once reaching normal temp... Loss of power/acceleration.

I believed it to be the throttle body after doing a bit of research and replaced it today with a reconditioned one.
Gave it a good run to reach normal temp, etc and as I was coming to the end of my journey thinking its fixed; the jerking/kangeroo'ing and loss of power/acceleration started again!

I also noticed, when I'm at standstill with the issue and rev the engine, the rev its a smooth one... More like a juddering one.

Now I'm very annoyed and helpless to what it could all be... Does anyone else have any suggestions?
Thank you in advance, for any responses! :)
 
I'm in exactly the same situation, i replaced my throttle body at the weekend and i still have the same problem only slightly better (at least it's drivable now). there is a set up sequence in the haynes manual, it recommends you do it after a throttle body change, but it's still not much better.
I'm thinking of going down the Almera throttle body route to get round the problem once and for all.
 
@azizulhye & @ash1712..... where did you get this replaced throttle body from? have you re- service your present throttle body? if not then you should do it though.:rolleyes: ( it will be involve with soldering work and clean with carb cleaner.)


cheers
jk
 
I got it from a breaker on ebay but i read on the net after that 9 out of 10 throttle bodies would fail at some point, the newer one is better the problems only intermediate now it only happens under 35mph. I was thinking about an almera set up for peace of mind.
 
ash1712 said:
I got it from a breaker on ebay but i read on the net after that 9 out of 10 throttle bodies would fail at some point, the newer one is better the problems only intermediate now it only happens under 35mph. I was thinking about an almera set up for peace of mind.
Click to expand...

Well in my opinion, I don't trust to any breakers. I got bad experiences with them in past.
You should re-service on your throttle body which will save your money. If you do this then your car will be ok but I don't know if you got other problems.

How long did you drive your car? How old your car?

Cheers
Jk
 
the cars a 98 sr, i've had it a couple of months. This is my third k11 i owned two super s with no hint of a problem from the throttle body on either of them. I thought it could have been a vacuum pipe but i double checked them all. what part of the tb needs soldering?
 
Is vacuum leak sort it? Did you fit this replaced tb properly? Is this inlet manifold gasket ok? If all are ok then you must have other problem somewhere.

You got this replaced tb from breakers so IMO, it might be not recondition one.

I am on my phone ATM so I can't send this link to you. Go on k11 section, k11 blogs then go to pollyp rebuild index. You can find 'resolder TB'. It's useful info.

You can find more info in 'Search Bar.'

I will send more links when I get to home at 11pm.

Cheers
Jk
 
Plus you need to clean with carb cleaner. It take time to clear these dirts out and sort out with using multimedia too. (set up properly)
 
I gave the ebay one a good going over, but that's what i ended up doing every few days with the old one to try and get rid of any dirt.
 
@ash1712 - I hope we both get ours sorted soon mate, I haven't had the chance since my post to check under the bonnet yet due to working til late, but hoping to do so before this weekend... Please let me know if you manage to resolve yours and how. :)

@jk9194 - I bought it off ebay as a reconditioned one too... Inspected it visually and looked all cleaned up with a fresh seal on the cover that hides the chip board, etc...
On its first run after fitment, it started jerking, etc when the temperature reached halfway/normal level... Fuming, thinking that the problem hasn't gone after all that...
Just about an hour ago, I gave it another a run for 15 - 20 minutes and suprisingly didn't get any issues... It's got me thinking did I drive it long enough or has the issue actually gone?

Btw, I re-soldered my old throttle body before posting this reply; believing that I've done it correctly lol so if the problem does occur with the replaced part, I'll give my old one a try as last hope. :s

Thank you both for your responses and sorry for the late reply. :)
 
@azizulhye.... It sounds ok then? Just keep your old one for incase. (do soldering and clean with carb cleaner as well.)

edit: ash, you need to do like what azizu do... it might be work for you. (do soldering and clean with carb cleaner as well.) Oh yea, have you found any info from search bar?
 
If you used a halfords dizzy rotor there's your issue, made 2 of my facelifts run the dogs nuts and I forgot about them, after much hair pulling went back to.stock and pow! Judder\pull back under load is gone,

Hope you don't have a halfords dizzy rotor!

Sent from my LG-P880 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
I've decided to let my regular mechanic to sort the fault out by re soldering as suggested, as i am the worlds worst at soldering. I hope that's all that was causing the problem.
 
Sorry I've been so late with my replies everyone... Just a little update, the re-con t/b gives me a much smoother drive but problem of the jerking, etc still remains... However it is now less violent and the car is drivable for a more longer period... When I get home, i'll try and fit the original t/b that I soldered up and see how that goes.
 
azizulhye said:
Sorry I've been so late with my replies everyone... Just a little update, the re-con t/b gives me a much smoother drive but problem of the jerking, etc still remains... However it is now less violent and the car is drivable for a more longer period... When I get home, i'll try and fit the original t/b that I soldered up and see how that goes.
Click to expand...

Had this problem on two engines... both turned out to be bad distributors (cam sensor failure once hot) (had replaced the Tb's before hand = problem persisted)

Id stick a cheap scap dizzy from a breakers in for a try.
 
The first thing the mechanic did was replace the distributor (it badly needed replacing) but i felt no difference, and if the tb re-soldering doesn't work then it's something much more serious.
 
azizulhye said:
Sorry I've been so late with my replies everyone... Just a little update, the re-con t/b gives me a much smoother drive but problem of the jerking, etc still remains... However it is now less violent and the car is drivable for a more longer period... When I get home, i'll try and fit the original t/b that I soldered up and see how that goes.
Click to expand...

ash1712 said:
The first thing the mechanic did was replace the distributor (it badly needed replacing) but i felt no difference, and if the tb re-soldering doesn't work then it's something much more serious.
Click to expand...



let us to know. :)
 
I had the replacement tb re-soldered as suggested. There is a change but over all still same old problem. There is no pattern to it either i.e driving style, engine temp or distance. Some days it's absoloutley fine and others it's nearly undriveable.
I'm out of ideas.

The car will be for sale very soon, this is my fourth micra and the only one with any problems, very disappointing.
 
Sounds like its repetitively missing almost? With you saying that it has no pattern and happens hot or cold. Just go through your ignition again and see if there's a weak link?
Also as a completely different angle have you checked maf sensor recently? If its giving an incorrect signal to the ecu then it wont be fueling correctly.
Another idea to check is your injectors... one may be blocked or partially on one cylinder giving you lumpy running?
Just a few more ideas for you
 
Hmm far out, have you seen how your iac and air values look personally? Its not diagnostics i dont think, more watching of the values and looking at whats going on across the board. Could you have improperly seated the throttle body after fitting? Or not torqued it correctly?
 
You'll need a multimeter to test your IAV. Despite it being clean.
You'll need a wiring diagram for it to and find the signal to ecu wire. Test it for voltage (20v max) and resistance.
I had a car in not long that ran alright most of the time then lumpy and would overrun. Despite what you might expect... it was the water temp sensor

Have you checked cambelt/chain condition? Or the O2 sensors?
Does yours have a cam angle sensor?
Its a tedious task but its worth checking all your sensors. You'll only get an ecu fault if the sensor fails, not if it's giving a signal despite how poor. Like migs said its worth checking all your values fed into the ecu. Quicker than a 1 by 1 test
 
auto electrics are seriously over my head. But i was told when i picked it up the other day, that it might be worth replacing the inlet manifold and injectors, luckily i found a full set 10 miles away for £60 with sounds like a good price but adding in £40 an hour labour costs it's going to run well over £100. Very expensive if it's not the problem especially for someone on job seekers. but he also said failing that it could be an electrical issue.

I
 
Not likely, you need it plugging in really i reckon, like before if you could see the values you could narrow it down, id take off and reseat the.tb personally!
 
if you can find a garage with nissan obd1 diagnostic gear eh, i would check the readings from the lambda personally.
if its closed looping ok @ idle then its not fueling or airleaks, then check the timing, mine will hunt if the timing is too far out (and i have no idle control valve fitted)
 
I need to retract my last post. The car is worse than ever and i'm tired of the time and money it's taking, when it's a guessing game as to what the problem is. So it's going on ebay later today as spares or repairs.
 
Hi,

I had the exact same problem on my Super S, Frank changed the throttle body, re soldered it, changed dizzy. I changed spark plugs, check fuel filter etc.

It turned out to be a dodgy lambda sensor. My advice is to unplug it at the grey plug and see if the kangarooing improves slightly.
 
If it doesn't sell i'll buy a pair of lambda sensors, the ones i have in at the moment are not original. So i'll give that a go.
 
I had the same problems as you.
I paid aprx. 15£ and replaced the air's flow sensor. Everything is just fine now.
You can get it from ebay.co.uk
It is not a Bosch but it works just fine.

My Nissan guys were telling me to change the throttle body and pay 600€.
So I paid only 20€.



Sent from GT-N7100 with Tapatalk 2
 
I have the same Problem and after talking to someone in the know they said it might be an airflow meter, he replaced his and says his car is as new now im confused if i should replace Throttle bodies or air flow meter, its a 1.4 K11 cheers
 

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