Rough Idle Help - Update

[CMF_micrafun2]

I have recently done two bits of work on my car.

Firstly, The whole ignition system has been changed by me. This includes rotor arm, distributor cap, HT leads(wires) and spark plugs. Bosch plugs FR8 set to 1.1mm.
This has made a good improvement to the starting performance of the car.

Secondly, the clutch has also been changed by a garage. It may be that the kangaroo jumps were there previously but because the clutch was slipping so badly, we had not noticed it before.


The car, a Nissan Micra 1.0L is doing Kangaroo jumps at low speeds like 40mph.

When idling and stationary, idling is not smooth.
On the dashboard, if engine running it gets too rough, the charge warning light comes on momentarily.
But mostly the engine keeps on running. When stationary, sometimes it stalls when idling.

At times, but not always, the car does not pull away smoothly - there is judder and vibration when pulling away.

When doing a constant 40mph, sometimes you can sense that the engine has hit a "flat spot" or a point when there is little power. And to get out of that difficultly, you need to press the clutch pedal, rev the engine to a different speed and then move off.

Any pointers would help.

TIA
Danny.

 

[CMF_asdame]

check idle timing is 15deg when warm at 750rpm

 

[CMF_frank2]

throttlebody solder job maybe ?

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

asdame

I will be doing this

I have not been able to check out or replace CTS/AFM/MAF/TPS/Throttle body resolder, IAC valve (if one is fitted) and wiring harness losing its insulation. Especially with the clutch being replaced. Have any 1997 Micras had the wiring harness dis integrating problem or is the micra not subject to this problem.

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

frank2 WROTE:

"throttlebody solder job maybe ?

I will be doing that next

 

[CMF_Juzzy]

Def throttle body solder!

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Time for an update!

I have done the throttle body re solder.

Thanks to "mighty CG13DE" for writing up the re solder guide.

I could say the car is transformed - and it is.
Its bit early to say but ...
Idling is better and have not experienced kangaroo jumps yet.
But this is only the first day after the re solder.

Thanks to everyone who commented here.

For those who suffer from flooded engines with a distributor in the ignition circuit
- I think first thing to attend - rebuild the HT ignition circuit and replace (not just clean) the rotor and distributor cap and HT leads and spark plugs. I have not suffered from a flooded engine since. YMMV.

Thanks again

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

There is still some judder and vibration when pulling away in first - but the car is 13 years old
- so I dont expect perfection
- any pointers on this would be appreciated though

Danny

 

[CMF_Tinky]

micrafun2 Maybe engine rear oil seal or input shaft is leaking & got oil on your new clutch plate to cause the shudder again.Mechanic should have checked/changed them.

 

[CMF_frank2]

my blue k11 did that danny, and the solder job seemed to fix it but it was only because i had disturbed the connector/plug on the maf.
i tried another t/b, then soldered that too (still did it sometimes), but it only cured fully when i cleaned/re-bent the connections inside that plug ?

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Tinky WROTE:

"micrafun2 Maybe engine rear oil seal or input shaft is leaking & got oil on your new clutch plate to cause the shudder again.Mechanic should have checked/changed them.

I did see the clutch and press plate that came off. There was no oil on these. They would have told me if this was the case .... I think!

At the time, we did debate skimming the flywheel if it needed it. Some dont think its needed in 80% cases. I dont know. What do you think?

The temptation for the garage is not to do it - a)because it costs £25 extra and b) it delays the job by half day as the flywheel has to be sent to another address. And time is money as they say.I just wish now I'd offered to take it to be skimmed. Then I could be sure it wuz done.

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

frank2 WROTE:

"my blue k11 did that danny, and the solder job seemed to fix it but it was only because i had disturbed the connector/plug on the maf.

i tried another t/b, then soldered that too (still did it sometimes), but it only cured fully when i cleaned/re-bent the connections inside that plug ?

Thanks Frank
useful to know.

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

asdame WROTE:

"check idle timing is 15deg when warm at 750rpm

Timing was checked and found to be ok - unfortunately before the resolder job and the idle was up and down.

I think its the first of the four marks on the crank pulley that indicates 15 degrees (as it turns clockwise)Can anybody confirm pls

 

[CMF_M1CR4_K11]

Hi all,

I recently did the soldering job on my micra and this sorted the problem out but only for a couple of months. The problem is back (usual symptoms idling when stationary, takes a short while for rev to kick in which is wasting petrol, engine light comes on and engine turns off)

Any other ideas on what this could be? I might try the soldering again.

N reg Micra K11 1.0
62500 miles

Thanks

 

[CMF_asdame]

micrafun2 WROTE:

"asdame WROTE:

"check idle timing is 15deg when warm at 750rpm"</div>

Timing was checked and found to be ok - unfortunately before the resolder job and the idle was up and down.

I think its the first of the four marks on the crank pulley that indicates 15 degrees (as it turns clockwise)Can anybody confirm pls

6 nothes on the pulley, left to right its -5, TDC, 5, 10, 15, 20deg

 

[CMF_asdame]

M1CR4_K11 WROTE:

"Hi all,

I recently did the soldering job on my micra and this sorted the problem out but only for a couple of months. The problem is back (usual symptoms idling when stationary, takes a short while for rev to kick in which is wasting petrol, engine light comes on and engine turns off)

Any other ideas on what this could be? I might try the soldering again.

N reg Micra K11 1.0

62500 miles

Thanks

idle screw set too low?
should cold idle 1400rpm and warm idle 750rpm