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CMF_Snoopy

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Car got dyno'd today. Still waiting on the mod plater, he cant do it till monsday now :(. Had to pull almost all the base timing out of the car to stop it pinging at the end of the rev range. So here is the dyno sheet.

This was done during the middle of the day, so the car was overheating (had to stop several times to let it cool down). Need a larger radiator.

The car made 89kw at 7psi with a very flat tourque curve. Graham (dyno owner) said it was one of the best torque curves he has seen on a small turbo front wheel drive.
 

CMF_White Knight

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Awesome !!I reckon it is about spot on as Hack pulls the same at 7psi but I am sure you will do a bit better due to front mounted intercooler.
Get in touch with Errol at Datrats for a larger radiator as the one he supplied me is a direct swap and like took all of 30 minutes from go to whoa to fit.
Well done Snoopy what a great result.Top stuff.Love the turque curve.
The dark side embraces you.

 

CMF_Snoopy

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Looks like the step to full engine management is going to have to come soon than thought. The haltech has developed a mind of its own. It played up on the dyno (i.e wouldnt turn on) which was traced to a bad connector. So after the dyno I hard wired the unit in.

Today driving back from a mates place the car leaned out (I have an a/f guage which has now just paid for itself). Checked the haltech, it wasn't working. Had a fiddle with the wiring & let the unit cool down & it started working agian. Im hoping its a broken wire at the base of the unit. Have to cut the wiring close to the unit & rewire it from scratch & see if that fixes it.

The moral of the story is, buy an air/fuel guage it may just save your engine.
 

CMF_White Knight

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Gee sorry to hear. Hacks Haltech been going strong for nearly 2 years and no worries at all. Cuts in when you hit around 4.5 psi boost as that is when she starts to run lean and from the dyno the air fuel ratio is perfect right up to 7 psi.
 

CMF_Snoopy

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Yom WROTE:

"But not a cheapy!! lol<BR><BR>you using the standard narrow band O2 sensor?

Wide bands dont last very long, so yes Im just using a 1 wire universal. Works very well.

When the haltech is working it does a great job considering how basic it is. It keeps the a/f pretty close to spot on. Its interesting to note that yours cuts in at 4.5psi dave. Mine injectors are out of fuel at 3.5psi.

Im going to spend today trouble shooting the wiring. Im hoping its just the loom from the unit has a broken wire somewhere.

The unit is located out of sight in the glove box. The a/f guage can tell me very quickly if the haltech doesn't turn on. Thanks for the responses guys, will let you know what I find.
 

CMF_Yom

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Considering how many hands and how many times that haltec has been installed in different micras I would suggest that it is a loom problem rather than a hardware issue myself.

Goodluck with it mate
 

CMF_Snoopy

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Haltech is up & running agian. Broken wire in the loom. Also the injector plug had come away. Need to replace the injector plug as the locking clip has been broken at some stage of its life.
 

CMF_Alex_B

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lol, i only just came across this thread, hah so busy with uni, really happy you completed the dream snoopy! good to see the haltech setup ended up working out, cant wait too see the car,

Happy Motoring,

Alex
 

CMF_Snoopy

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The turbo is a mitsy tdo4l, that has been hiflowed (cant remember what impeller was used). It was on a gti swift running 14 psi making 140kw at the wheels.

Comes on boost at just over 2k. Makes full boost by just over 3k. Feels a little laggy (thats being fairly picky though). Shoves you back in the seat at 5k. Responds well to throttle input. If you want to drive slow & steady it does it nicely, if you want to drive around like a man possed it does that well too.

Highly recommend these turbo's, very well engineered.

 

CMF_evade

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haha

ah cool, mine doesnt hit full boost till about 3.5-4k which is where you get shoved into your seat..starts around about 2k as well..i'd be happy with it hitting full boost at 3k.

you using bleedvalve/boost control or anything or just running it off the wastegate to inlet vacuum?

when i put a simple GFB atomic bleed valve it made boost much faster...made a fair difference.

have fun with it!
 

CMF_Snoopy

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Yer boost is stock. Im using the gfb atomic bleed valve aswell. Makes a huge difference to when it comes on. I was enjoying it until this morning when the manifold cracked on 3 cylinders, will ring our exhaust shop when they open. Looks like being off the road for another week :(
 

CMF_evade

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Snoopy WROTE:

"Yer boost is stock. Im using the gfb atomic bleed valve aswell. Makes a huge difference to when it comes on. I was enjoying it until this morning when the manifold cracked on 3 cylinders, will ring our exhaust shop when they open. Looks like being off the road for another week :(

that because of the turbo pulling down on the manifold? get something to brace it..sounds like its sorta like my dump pipe cracking problem but its your manifold instead..

good ol turbo micras hey..haha
 

CMF_Snoopy

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aaron WROTE:

"Snoopy WROTE:<BR><BR>"Yer boost is stock. Im using the gfb atomic bleed valve aswell. Makes a huge difference to when it comes on. I was enjoying it until this morning when the manifold cracked on 3 cylinders, will ring our exhaust shop when they open. Looks like being off the road for another week :("</DIV><BR><BR>that because of the turbo pulling down on the manifold? get something to brace it..sounds like its sorta like my dump pipe cracking problem but its your manifold instead..<BR><BR>good ol turbo micras hey..haha

Its was cause by a few factors
1. manifold tubing too thin, so it gets brittle when it gets hot. Which was amplified by the heat wrap.

2. rear of the exhaust touched the body when cornering hard, which vibrated the manifold.

3. exhaust system was too stiff. it was acting like a 5th engine mount.

add these 3 things together = broken manifold.

I was flat stick in 4th going into a sweeping corner. which aloud these 3 factors to act together.

I got the manifold repaired. I dont think it will last more than 6 months as the pipes have overheated. So I will use it to make the support brackets, redo the exhaust & iron out the bugs. Then early next year I will get the exhaust shop to make me a new manifold out of thicker tubing (at a reduced price) & get it hpc coated .
 

cisco

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Definitely put a brace under the new manifold mate. I had one made up on blue monster - well worth it. There isn't a lot of room in there for a super beefy manifold, unless you make some nugget log style thing that doesn't flow very well..

Ah ha - welcome to turbo micras and super-custom noone-has-done-this-before fabrication frustration.
 

CMF_Snoopy

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Finished making the brace for the manifold.I had an old holden engine to g/box brace lying around. So with a little cutting, bending & welding, it now makes a very sturdy manifold brace.

I guess im very lucky that I can fabricate these sort of parts myself.

I would hate to think what it would cost me to pay someone to make all the little custom things that I have made myself. Defeninatle couldn't have done this with out an oxy set. So handy for bending brackets & making all the little custom parts that just make it all fit together.
 
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