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my k10 project

what i been doing
the sideskirts half way done
then i got bored pulled the rear lights painted them, in the pic they look massively matt but trust me 4 layers of laceur sorted that and plenty of light is visible so very legal
ill get a day light photo tomorrow
 

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Little update
No pics as everything is being moved about
Full body kit now purchased ready for my car I believe it's foah will post up but still needs painting, just got a garage so I can finally go to work painting my impreza and rebuilding the engine, then start building my Micra
 
Cheers dude I'm hoping to get it all done within the next few weeks as I want it looking mint for mot in march and I can weld any holes up I find lol
I often go up the lakes around Keswick a few weekends a year so I'll give you a shout next time I'm in the area as I see your in Cumbria
 
I have somewhat of a dilemma
I have the ma12 engine and the cg10 engine but I'm trying to decide which to fit? I'm guessing ma12 would be the simplest route
 
very good! like them a lot. what are they from and will they be a straight fit or is there some work to do? get a pic up when you have them on.
 
dg_unit said:
very good! like them a lot. what are they from and will they be a straight fit or is there some work to do? get a pic up when you have them on.
Click to expand...

Dunno but I've got a hammer so they'll fit :D plus I've got 3.5" arch extensions
From a BMW e30 14"x6.5j perfect fit need a bit of arch bending but my car is quite low on a normal set up should be fine
Mines perfect till you sit in it
 
ET6 means that the mounting face is offset 6mm from the centreline of the wheel

ET38 means that the mounting face is offset 38mm from the centreline

ET0 has mounting face exact middle of of wheel.

it would be cheaper to get 13x10j banded steels. Or 15x10j banded steels. 3inch spacers would be a little weak imo
 
Machi san said:
ET6 means that the mounting face is offset 6mm from the centreline of the wheel

ET38 means that the mounting face is offset 38mm from the centreline

ET0 has mounting face exact middle of of wheel.

it would be cheaper to get 13x10j banded steels. Or 15x10j banded steels. 3inch spacers would be a little weak imo
Click to expand...

I'm thinking after looking at the wheels with the arches that I don't want them to go to the very end of the arch, I like them tucked in a little
So maybe just a little spacer might make it perfect
Either that or I'll trim the arches back a bit
As I'll be attaching the arches to the wing I hadn't thought about the fact that the original arches extrude an inch or so, which means the extensions only add about an inch-inch and a half
 
I'm going to be getting myself a pair for the rears cause I've got some that are 6" wide with an ET of 40 and the beemer ones are 6.5" wide with an ET of 30 something.

That's what I was getting at
 
karlj said:
I'm going to be getting myself a pair for the rears cause I've got some that are 6" wide with an ET of 40 and the beemer ones are 6.5" wide with an ET of 30 something.

That's what I was getting at
Click to expand...

Rear fitment of my 6.5 e30 wheel for Karl
5e0fb136-e518-244f.jpg

5e0fb136-e529-da4d.jpg
 
Only got the one sort of done need to do the other 3 then weld the skins shut then paint some por-15 or whatever it's called over it stop it rusting then finally fit the big arches all in time for Saturday oulton park
It's not looking likely :(
 
I've now decided that the bolt on wing thing looks rubbish
Don't want it plus the quality of them is poor :( considering the cost I literally caught one with my foot and put a crack in it!

So in my world this is how a plan is formulated
5e0fb128-b4e8-0788.jpg


I'm going to remove the wide arch things and make a blistered arch :)
Should be fun, as the k10 has no swage line it's hard to blend it
Did think of 6R4 body kit but it might look gay, then I figured dimma kit wouldn't be to far off but with the modifying needed to get it on I may as well buy some sheet metal and get cutting :D
 
nice one mate i think that will look awesome when its done (Y). 6R4 would look a bit extreme unless you widened the track and got some super wide wheels on then you would need a 4wd or rwd and 2.0T to go with the show lol
 
sr20bud said:
nice one mate i think that will look awesome when its done (Y). 6R4 would look a bit extreme unless you widened the track and got some super wide wheels on then you would need a 4wd or rwd and 2.0T to go with the show lol
Click to expand...

Had plans on hyabusa rear engine but can't be arsed lol
 
sr20bud said:
that would be awesome mate but yeah s**t loads of work involved i think your turbo ma12 when its done will shift (Y)
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Hopefully, I'm only doing it because it's a learning thing I'm from an FI background so carbs are fairly alien to me, this is learning me a bit about carbs
 
sweet well you can only learn one way mate and the k10 is a brilliant car to start on (Y) cool is the vet going in the 200 or is it an idea for the k10? i was looking at throwing a ve in my sunny gti but couldn't find one so i ended up buying 2 sr20det's never got round to building them so sold them on thinking i wasn't gonna get another nissan :doh:
 
sr20bud said:
sweet well you can only learn one way mate and the k10 is a brilliant car to start on (Y) cool is the vet going in the 200 or is it an idea for the k10? i was looking at throwing a ve in my sunny gti but couldn't find one so i ended up buying 2 sr20det's never got round to building them so sold them on thinking i wasn't gonna get another nissan :doh:
Click to expand...
Kinda makes me wish I'd have paid attention in college all them years ago lol instead of thinking I'll never need this info, I was apprenticed in a tuning garage, then when straight to a dealership technician so never got my hands on a carb
 
haha college only teaches you so much its the experience that does the teaching (Y). that would be mint in the k10 just check with the rwd sr20 that the fwd box fits. you might already know but i read on the sr20 forum that the mating point for the bell housing is different in some way narrower or something like that lol. it was a while since i read it so it might be something or nothing but you wouldnt have to worry about that if you go rwd lol.

well if i ever end up with a 13b or 20b il know where to throw some work as no one locally to me likes touching them. i had plans to throw one in the k10 but kinda went off the idea as i know jack all about rotarys.
 
sr20bud said:
haha college only teaches you so much its the experience that does the teaching (Y). that would be mint in the k10 just check with the rwd sr20 that the fwd box fits. you might already know but i read on the sr20 forum that the mating point for the bell housing is different in some way narrower or something like that lol. it was a while since i read it so it might be something or nothing but you wouldnt have to worry about that if you go rwd lol.

well if i ever end up with a 13b or 20b il know where to throw some work as no one locally to me likes touching them. i had plans to throw one in the k10 but kinda went off the idea as i know jack all about rotarys.
Click to expand...

Plus there fwd options for a rotary are slim to say the least!
As I said about the sr engine I will have the rwd running gear from the s14 going spare so maybe a cheeky rwd Micra :D
 

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