K12 1.2 Stalling and lumpy idle

Just brought the car last week, problem Ive been having is a lumpy idle and stalling when pulling up to lights/junctions.

For example if i start the car up in the driveway, the engine runs smoothly when 1st started , it idles at just over 1000 rmp. After about 30 sec the revs drop a little and the idle becomes erratic with the revs fluctuating between 500 - 800 rpm. its almost as if the engines about to stall and it then revs itself up (anti-stall feature ?) to about 800 rpm for a few seconds and the cycle continues. Some times while idling in the driveway the engine will cut out.

The stalling happens when pulling up at junctions or traffic lights, when the clutch is pressed and held in the majority of times the engine will cut out.

Anyone else had experience of this sort of problem?

Model: 1.2 S
Year : June 2005

(BTW - Could any one tell me if 2005 cars suffer from the stretched timing chain issue?)
 
Hi mate,
I have the exact same problem, I've got it booked into the garage tomorrow, so when i find out what needed to be done to solve it, I will post it.
 
What I've done so far...

Ive checked the spark plugs - all seem to be in good nick (compared them to this Spark plug condition)

Removed and cleaned the throttle body - was not too dirty to start with

Checked the DTC's - 2 found -
P1171
P0011

Cleared the code and went for a short drive - Checked the DTC's and P0011 has returned
However car runs better than before - idle is stick a little lumpy - comes and goes - does not stall as much as before, but there must still be an underlying problem


Ive found some info here about code P0011 <-- Link
Looks like some thing to do with the Intake valve timing control solenoid

Possible causes are listed as
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) may be faulty
- Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
helpforcars.net

Would appreciate any advise on which one of the possible cause should be investigate 1st.
 
Form what i read recently, i thought that is was 2003 /2004 cars that has issues with stretched chains.
This car is registered June 2005 - Do some 2005 and later cars suffer with chain issues?
 

frank

Club Member
i,m not sure QB, but you engine may well have been built in late 04 eh
here,s a quote from a nissan mech

The timing chain will stretch prematurely due to, apparently, irregular servicing and using the incorrect oil. Personally, I think this is a complete sack of ####e but hey ho. I say this as the cam and crank sensors were known to be faulty and were recalled on 03 models onwards to apparently prevent this happening as well as the chain being a different part no.

It's an issue more on the 1.5 than the 1.8 and also effects the newer shape micra's. You'll be going along and pull away from a junction and notice irregular acceleration with it pulling lightly then not pulling at all then pulling quite heavily. In my experience, it took a week of this before the engine warning light came on. It's been knwon to happen at as little miles as 40k.

It's interesting to note the part that nissan will replace the chain with is a different number (from the 03 onwards engines) to the original, although they will not admit it's a problem.

This was very common problem from 00-02 0n 1.5 N16 models iv done chains on id say 150 cars mostly 00 and 01 when i worked for nissan and the problem was in the chain it self it used to stretch and then but ur timing out and bring on ur engine light. an easy way to diagnose the problem is remove ur top timing cover(the small one on the side of the head)and look down at the tensioner and if the chain is stretched u will see around 12mm of the piston out and if ur chain is fine u should only see about 5mm. this had nothing to do with not servicing as all the cars we done chains on had good service historys it was just a crap design of a chain.The old type chain nissan used never gave problems in the n15 or any model up to 00.thats why people say that after 00 nissan started to go down hill quallity wise.
 
hi.. i have just bought a nissan micra s 03 plate literally drove it away and noticed the problem.. it is very jerky when idle and sometimes stalls??
how do you check for fault codes??

how do you know if this is a recal problem as i have spoken to dealer in the midlands and they basically saying take it they will put it on comp!!
is it just the same as putting it on the computer at any garage or is nissans testing more specific and therefore the better option??

if i had read some of the reviews yesterday i wouldnt have a broken micra or any micra at all now :(

please help :)

kylie xx
 
So my Daughters Micra 1.0 K12 had the erratic tickover and stalling issues as stated above, I read the codes off and the cam position error came up, I changed the sensor but the fault remained. I then had a look at the timing chain tensioner protrusion and it was @16mm so I removed the engine and box, fitted a full new kit including chain, sprockets, guide rails and tensioner, gave the engine a full service while I was there, new filters and plugs etc, built it back up and turned the key, still exactly the same running / stalling but without the fault code. Where to now then?
 
So my Daughters Micra 1.0 K12 had the erratic tickover and stalling issues as stated above, I read the codes off and the cam position error came up, I changed the sensor but the fault remained. I then had a look at the timing chain tensioner protrusion and it was @16mm so I removed the engine and box, fitted a full new kit including chain, sprockets, guide rails and tensioner, gave the engine a full service while I was there, new filters and plugs etc, built it back up and turned the key, still exactly the same running / stalling but without the fault code. Where to now then?


Idle Issues

Check most engine conditions that relate to idle issues in less than half an hour with a vacuum gauge!

Use a vacuum gauge to check; cylinder balance, worn piston rings, restricted exhaust catalyst, air leaks, head gasket leaks, sticking leaky valves, valve timing, defective HT coils, cold start rich mixture, and ignition timing?

Check; fuel pressure, fuel injector rail regulator output pressure and fuel filters with a separate fuel pressure test.

Pre-existing fault codes may not regenerate until 50 to 100 stop start operating cycles are completed with any existing fault conditions?

References:

Three pages on the MSC, it’s a long long DIY road and we’ve been here before but may be worth the effort in the end?

https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/help-me-solve-my-idle-issues.53809/page-3


How to use and interpret vacuum gauge for fault finding



Vacuum gauge diagnosis fault finding testing and interpretation tabulated tables.

http://www.cdxetextbook.com/toolsEquip/hpt/measuring/vacgauge.html

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=How+to+read+a+vacuum+gauge&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj5ubm_tMXKAhXGGA8KHXWXAW0QsAQIMA&biw=1202&bih=547#imgrc=5wrImnArIU9_9M:

Hope this helps assess, inspect, diagnose and rectify quickly and cost efficiently your K-12 idle issues;~ happy hunting fault finding. Let us know how it pans out?
 
Hi guys,
I know this is an old thread, but i've been having troubles with my K12 for ages now.

So when it starts it's up at 1500 revs, then over the space of about 5 minutes it very slowly decreases down to about 900/1000 revs. As it's going down the needle slightly twitches up and down and you can hear the engine idle change as it does this. Is this normal? The revs also jump up when I put my foot down on the clutch and go into neutral when in low gears.

Could this be the idle control valve? Or any other ideas? I have contemplated getting the throttle body replaced with a reconditioned one too. I literally don't know what to do, two garages don't know what's wrong with it now and it's costing me money with no answers!

Any help would be really appreciated!
Thanks, Lucy
 
Hi guys,
I know this is an old thread, but i've been having troubles with my K12 for ages now.

So when it starts it's up at 1500 revs, then over the space of about 5 minutes it very slowly decreases down to about 900/1000 revs. As it's going down the needle slightly twitches up and down and you can hear the engine idle change as it does this. Is this normal? The revs also jump up when I put my foot down on the clutch and go into neutral when in low gears.

Could this be the idle control valve? Or any other ideas? I have contemplated getting the throttle body replaced with a reconditioned one too. I literally don't know what to do, two garages don't know what's wrong with it now and it's costing me money with no answers!

Any help would be really appreciated!
Thanks, Lucy
Hi Lucy
I was just wondering if you managed to find the fault?
 
What I've done so far...

Ive checked the spark plugs - all seem to be in good nick (compared them to this Spark plug condition)

Removed and cleaned the throttle body - was not too dirty to start with

Checked the DTC's - 2 found -
P1171
P0011

Cleared the code and went for a short drive - Checked the DTC's and P0011 has returned
However car runs better than before - idle is stick a little lumpy - comes and goes - does not stall as much as before, but there must still be an underlying problem


Ive found some info here about code P0011 <-- Link
Looks like some thing to do with the Intake valve timing control solenoid

Possible causes are listed as
- Intake valve timing control solenoid valve may be faulty
- Crankshaft position sensor (POS) may be faulty
- Camshaft position sensor (PHASE) may be faulty
- Accumulation of debris to the signal pick-up portion of the camshaft
helpforcars.net

Would appreciate any advise on which one of the possible cause should be investigate 1st.
Change the camshaft sensor i had that code and it was the sensor not chain
 
Just brought the car last week, problem Ive been having is a lumpy idle and stalling when pulling up to lights/junctions.

For example if i start the car up in the driveway, the engine runs smoothly when 1st started , it idles at just over 1000 rmp. After about 30 sec the revs drop a little and the idle becomes erratic with the revs fluctuating between 500 - 800 rpm. its almost as if the engines about to stall and it then revs itself up (anti-stall feature ?) to about 800 rpm for a few seconds and the cycle continues. Some times while idling in the driveway the engine will cut out.

The stalling happens when pulling up at junctions or traffic lights, when the clutch is pressed and held in the majority of times the engine will cut out.

Anyone else had experience of this sort of problem?

Model: 1.2 S
Year : June 2005

(BTW - Could any one tell me if 2005 cars suffer from the stretched timing chain issue?)
Hi there. Yes I have the exact same issue with mine. I believe it is related to the timing chain. Mine is a 2004,in a 53 plate. Also even though it is fairly low mileage (66k) I can tell some boy racer has been thrashing this engine. Paid well over the odds for it at 1000 so wont get money back etc. Just gotta sort out the idle speed etc. I know they use individual oil packs on them and I am now going to go on YouTube to look for videos on how to raise the tick over speed.
 
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