Is wiring loom from k11 automatic same as a manual?

CMF_asdame

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hi. i recently brought a 1993 k11 slx manual. Has power windows & central locking but no PAS/ABS/AirCon.

now interestingly it was originally an automatic according to the reg and vin #.

but seems it was involved in a front ender judging by the replaced front member, engine mounts resting too far forwards, wrong gearbox mount cos only 2 bolts are fitted and a big gap on the 3rd hole (prob the original auto mount on a manual gearbox, cracked radiator fan frame.

so at one point this car was converted from an auto to a manual, which is odd considering the amount of work involved compared to just sourcing a replacement auto box & engine.

I've just stripped down the entire car to restore and found the gearbox neutral & reverse sensors not plugged in cos the automatic wiring loom can't reach, and that the original wiring loom for the automatic with the e-cvt control box was still there.

I'll be replacing the loom between the ecu and the engine bay with a manual version in order to be able to connect the neutral & reverse plugs but the rest of the internal wiring loom i noticed theres the old kickdown switch wiring, a lead to the automatic gearbox lever (prob for sensing park?).

Now my question is,
is the wiring loom inside the cabin of an auto the same as a manual version, whereby i could just replace the ecu-engine loom with a manual version and throw out the e-cvt box?
or would you recommend replacing the entire wiring (engine bay - ecu - interior) with one from a proper manual micra?

could it be that nissan just makes the interior wiring loom the same for both manual & auto micras and simply tapes up the connectors that are not used?
 

CMF_asdame

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thanks danno
i'll just replace the engine bay-ecu loom then on saturday

i wasn't changing the ecu cos the engine runs fine, i meant just removing the separate e-cvt computer box below the ecu cos that's prob useless now.
 

CMF_qwerty132

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Hey,
I have just done an auto to manual swap. I didnt have any problems with the length of thr wires. I just hooked the reverse lights up and bypassed the inhibitor relay. The auto has a relay box on the engine side of the engine bay. It has the start inhibitor relay in it. I removed the relay and made a jumper out of the same size wire I took from the car I was wrecking. I did this rather than permanently grounding the other side of the relay (keeping 12v running through it the whole time) which is what happens when the auto is in p or n. There is also the neutral switch which I just left disconnected. I have been driving for 3 weeks and havent had a problem. The cvt light will stay on on the dash and mine now beeps when in reverse with the drivers door open. There is a thread here thats called cvt to manual that has a heap of other stuff from when I did the swap changing over. Im using my mobile to type this so I cant find it now.
Thanks
qwerty132
 

CMF_asdame

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the reverse light wiring on my loom runs from the ecu to the top of engine, (then branches off to the injectors etc ) but just a short length is left for the reverse etc from the old auto box.

just rang some scrappies and they couldn't just swap me old loom for their manual ones, Bah :(

i think i'll prob have to mod it myself.

the neutral switch doesn't do much does it? i assume it just lets the ecu know ur in neutral and drops back to idle rev quicker.
 

CMF_asdame

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hey
just visited afew scrappies. there was only one car with the old type of loom setup like mine (relay boxes on left & right engine bay) and its prob a 1L cos the manual gearbox is smaller.

seemed alota work to rip that front loom off just to be able to hook up neutral sensor to the ecu and pay the scrap man too, so i'm just gonna extend the current loom.

the reverse light also doesn't work. most of all the micras at the scraps had the updated "single set of relays near battery" type loom and the reverse cable on them were part of the left loom, whereas mine doesn't have that.

i traced back the wiring from the reverse lamp and it goes to the e-cvt control box :(
so the reverse light is controlled by the cvt box, which must've been triggered by one of the connectors that lead to the cvt or cvt selecter.

there's no connectors on the loom that'll fit the reverse sensor plug on the manual gearbox, so i can't just hardwire it, unless i cut off the plug head and hardwire the gearbox reverse sensor straight to the lamp. seems too much work to try figure out.
 
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