Is this the factory water temperature sensor?

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

Hi ppl

Kinda dark to trace wires ATM but I was wondering if this item circled here in the engine block is the factory water temperature sensor?

Long weekend coming up so I may install the water gauge - don't have an adaptor for the radiator hose so I am considering swapping the factory sensor and seeing if my aftermarket one for my new gauge fits is all.

Cheers.

 

[CMF_asdame]

i think that's a pressure sensor thing, looking at the 2 connected pipes there (don't have me haynes with me here sorry)

the 2 temp sensors are just ahead of that. i think the smaller one is for the dash gauge while the larger one's for the ECU.

 

[CMF_asdame]

just checked the manual and the highlighted part with 2 tubes attached is the thermal vacuum valve for the emissions control canister, which only allows stored fuel tank vapour to be burnt off when the engine's up to temperature and under load. (strangely my 1998 slx 1.3 doesn't have the valve)

i think it'll be ok to remove the smaller coolant sensor n replace with urs. couldn't the new gauge just use the original coolant sensor? or is the aftermarket one a different spec?

 

[CMF_sikK11]

shouldnt you be able to runa t peice and have both things working.

 

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

Thanks ppl ... looking for an adaptor for the radiator hose but believe the micra is about 25mm and smallest I can find so far is 32mm. Guess no one bothers with a micra eh?

May try splicing into the factory wire and see what readings come up on the gauge first. I note that the factory water temp is not static but actually moves up / down according to changes in water temp unlike some other cars where it's always in the middle.

As for the factory water temp sensor, someone's mentioned it is close to where my circle is. I'll just have to trace the wire from behind the dash to where it ends up then I guess if my readings are off.

 

[CMF_deNs]

I'll be replacing my factory temp sensor with an aftermarket item in the next few days so i'll let you know how I go. I was contemplating using a t-piece to continue using the factory one but dunno if I can be bothered.

---dens

 

[CMF_evade]

in answering your original question

no thats not the water temp sensor. its a little brass fitting with ONE wire coming off it just under that/near there..

its about half the size of that one as well.

 

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

Thanks ... I think I have enough info and time over the weekend to tackle this too.

Yep - getting an adaptor is a PITA ... they cost more than half the price of the gauge and apparently some reckon the radiator hose doesn't last as long once you cut them.

Will see if I can fit the aftermarket sensor in where the factory one is. Getting to it may be another issue ... the only pitfall of a small car is a small bay too so small hands are necessary.

 

[CMF_deNs]

Haha, well i'll be doing it while the engine is out so I'll be sure to take some pictures of the fitting for you. Will be this weekend hopefully..

---dens

 

[CMF_turbo march-rolling shell]

greddy make an adaptor small enough. i've got it mounted in the top rad hose..

 

[CMF_asdame]

this is the instrument panel temp gauge sensor arrowed

 

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

Thanks Asdame ... makes it whole lot easier ...

Looks like my aftermarket sensor may just fit in there ...

Now I just have to wait for the weekend to come.

 

[CMF_nz_aj]

Yes that thermal vacuum valve is only used on earlier model CG motors.

If you are seeing your temperature gauge move up & down, your thermostat most likely needs replacing. It will be stuck open and or if it's nissan factory, the rubber seal will be cracked.

The temperature sensor for the dash is the 1 wire sensor pictured above. The sensor for the ECU is 2 wire. Both are located on the head under the distrubutor. Getting access to them is easier if you move the relay/fuse box between the dizzy & battery to one side. Taking the battery out may help too dependng on your tools.

 

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

Thanks ... you guys are tops. I finally found the water temp sensor and took it out today. Unfortunately the aftermarket water temp sensor I had was a lot smaller so I couldn't put this in place of the factory's:

nz aj - Thanks for the info about the thermostat ... I thought it was weird it was moving up and down and not in the middle. So off the Repco I went today and following some of the older threads, managed to get the Dayco replacement. Good to see they're still $13 ...

What sux is that you need silicon to replace (which i hate). Just prefer gaskets which is cleaner / faster. Now I got to wait until early morning to start bleeding the coolant and getting it full again.

Old thermostat's probably the original being made in England like Cisco's. I noticed the original one had a small valve at the top unlike the Dayco replacement.

As the Dayco one did not state which side was up, I did what some BMW techs do and drilled a hole in one side which serves the same purpose as the valve. Gonna do more searches tonight to see how to get the air out of the system. Done it before on my old BMW ... mistakes which N00Bs make (ie. not turning on heater etc).

Ordered an adaptor for the water temp gauge off Ebay ... miffed that it cost $35 including postage for a 26mm one (which is more than 50% price of the gauge).

Apart from that, spent the whole day attending to other things in the car, including:

- spraying bumpers black
- fitting A/F + water temp gauges (water temp sensor yet to be hooked up)
- painting cam cover red

Now I'm beat ... next weekend, probably rear speakers and maybe a ground wiring kit is on the mind too ...

That's it for this thread ... !

 

[CMF_asdame]

have you tried comparing the two temp sensors with a multimeter and hot water?
if they're the same spec you could just hook the new gauge to the original sensor.
if the new sensor has a higher resistance readings than the old sensor but same characteristics, you could attach a resisitor between the old sensor and new gauge?
failing that, maybe get an adapter for the new sensor.

i had the same prob of the missing thermostat valve when i got one from the local autoshop. ended up gettin a proper one from dealership for just a £ more instead.
i woulda thought drillin a permenant hole there allows some heat to escape, and so the engine would take longer to warm up (especially winter) and also run little cooler than optimum. although i suppose for such a tiny hole, it's not as bad as an old thermostat stuck fully open.

i felt the same bout the silicon sealant. gettin the whole car back together but just can't start the engine till it's fully cured. didn't wait 24hrs cos i was inpatient at the time so just gave it couple hrs before startin her up. works fine

i get the air out by pumpin the upper coolant pipe with one hand and temporarily sealin the radiator top with me other palm till no more bubbles come (this agitates the trapped bubbles to eventually flow up and out the cap). top up as needed. then start the engine and continue pumpin for a moment before capping it.
take round the block to warm engine up, makin sure the gauge rises up to middle and no more. cool the engine down before rechecking the levels are ok.

 

[CMF_Yom]

good idea with the hole in the thermostat harro, that will allow any air pockets to move past the thermostat while it is cold.

I personally would have gone for a smaller hole, but you know. meh.

If you still have cooling issues i would suggest ditching the dayco thermo and going for a genuine nissan. they might be a little more pricey but they're quality components. you can't beat the genuine article.

 

[CMF_Dodgy Haro]

No probs with the Dayco one so far - seems stable but longest I've idled is about 5 mins at the lights.

Won't know until I install the aftermarket temp gauge to determine what the actual temp is but it's already sitting at the half way mark and not moving up / down as before.

Was easy to bleed system - pretty much undid top hose, filled it up from the top. Then left radiator cap off and ran the engine until the thermostat opened. Topped up water along the way.

Repeated procedure again - most bubbles escaped whilst running the car stationery. Then took for test drive.

Oh, and leaving the heater on for the full time.

I did the same thing on the BMW but it still overheated. Guess the micra is an easier car to work with / on.

 

[CMF_Yom]

Mate there's actually a few other bleed points on the motor.

Can't remember where they are right now as all I've got are GA16 points (what a bastard of a motor that is to work on) in my mind.

But just follow logic - and there's usually a yellow sticker with red writing on it near the screw.

 

[CMF_nz_aj]

You can get actual temperature values out of the ECU via consult with laptop, cable & software. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

I hadn't heard of bleed points on the CG motor, unlike GA16. As far as I'm aware, for a nissan motor, GA16 is a bit unusual in this respect.

The JDM thermostat is offset like your replacement. The hole is drilled in the widest part of the flat metal around the thermostat, offsetting the thermostat to the bottom of the housing. Can't imagine it's super critical thou.

With the weather in brisbane, I don't think you'll have any major problems with the small drilled open hole.

I know a few people who have had trouble with overheating BMW motors, phrases like Broke My Wallet & Bavarian Money Waster are used at these times.

Toyota uses a reuseable U section rubber seal that fits around the outside of the thermostat, no sealant required. I like this arrangement. You need to get some faster cure sealant.

 

[CMF_Yom]

Just remembered where mine was. It was on the gearbxo side very close to the thermostat housing. In a bastard a position too. Only saw it when i was physically sitting in the engine bay.