Help needed......too less power, and stall sometimes

Help needed on my K11 CG13DE : too less power, and stall sometimes

After the ideas of doing a remap/nistune, I first wanted the car to run okay with the standard ecu. Unfortunately I must say I'm realy NOT impressed about the power my engine produces right now.
There is a bridge over the highway, where I can time the car. It's a few kilometers from stand. With the original engine I could get the car at 170km/h at this point. I must say with the 773 cams, Janspeed manifold, bigger airbox and bigger exhaustpipes (not TOO big though!) I realy feld the car running faster! Perhaps this is because there is a bit more noise:suspect:
Yesterday I took this timingpoint and I only got to 155 km/h:down:

I must say to be a bit unhappy with this fact. How is it possible to be slower than an original CG13DE, after installing all this stuff?

The last few wheeks the engine starts to stall sometimes (its a 2000 type K11). In the 1st 2nd en 3rd gear when I go FT, the car goes fine, also reading 13:1 on my Innovate wideband. When I go to the 4th and 5th gear also FT, the a/f goes completely out of range to the lean side. Not always, but most of the times.
Also when cruising 80 km/h, and keeping this speed without pushing the throttle more, the engine sometimes stalls...... This is dangerous and very irritating also! At that point I go back one gear and give some more throttle. At this time the car shakes like a vibrator, than you feel the power coming back.
I thougt this was a ignition-problem, so I changed the rotor, distributor, ignitioncables and put some Denso Iridium plugs in.
Unfortunately the problem wasn't solved.
I took off the airbox and there where a little lose dirtparts lying on the mazes of the throttle body. A took them off, and went to bed.
Next day the car ran nice! No shocks, just fine!
Could if be this simple I thought?? But yesterday the stalling came back.....and there was nothing lying on the Throttle Body.

I must say when I did the speed timing yesterday the engine ran fine, also reading a/f between 12,7 to 14:1 So I can't say the problem I discribed above has anything to do with the fact my car has less power with this modified engine than an original car has.


I'm sorry to give these long lists of problems, but I must say I realy am down about the fact my original car runs faster than this modified engine!!


*I remember one more mod I did: I places a cheap feul pressure regulator....but to be safe, I placed if AFTER the original one, so the pressure inside the fuelrail can never get to low. This fpr is placed right in front of my steeringwheel (on the engine side), and when the radio is off I can hear this fpr making noise. It sounds like air getting lose, but that's not possible because I did leave the vacuumhose on the original fpr. It must be the fuel I hear running through this thing. The gauge says 2,7 bar. Can this deviece have anything to do with the stalling problem or little power? I doubt it.







gr Chrismo......:frown:
 
yeah i think you should remove the standard fpr. the other one without the vacuum hose will be totally useless! i say you remove the standard fpr fit the better one properly and crank it up to around 3.5BAR fuel pressure ;) then let us know if theres any problems. also the stalling could be your throttle body needing re-soldered??
 
not on my car no, think i have mines at more than that. i do have the 1.6 primera injectors/ecu/throttle body aswell though so not sure if thats helping it. just work at it to try and get it right and if the better fpr doesnt seem to work. go back to the standard to check if you still have stalling issues and you never know if your throttle body has done it again. maybe try fitting a spare throttle body to test if you cant solve it through the fpr's ;)
 
Today I'll connect my laptop on the e-manage and go out for a ride. I guess if the maf sensor is not ok, this should be noticable on the readings the laptop gives in real-time modes.

At the point the car starts to stall, perhaps the voltage gives strange variations on the laptop? It's worth a try I think.
 
take the cheap fuel pressure regulator off, you have NO reason to change away from the standard fuel pressure, and the standard fuel pressure regulator is adequate.
 
You read my mind........just dit the change. Result: no difference.

It's like the engine runs worse every minute! Damn, I have to work tomorrow and need the car.

My friend who's a mechanic tells me to change the cams to original. I told him this could NEVER be the reason for the engine to run like this. The only thing these cams can make a bit worse is idle.

The minute I changed the ignitioncables, and at first I just switched them with an old set I had, the engine started to run realy bad, just as now. But the cables, rotor an distributor are all new now. Is there a possibility the main ignition unit is bad? If so how can I test this??




gr Chrismo
 
This is all ok. The problem is not always here......wrong timing would always be wrong. Valve clearence checked 7 wheeks ago during the 773 modification. All exactly ok.

One thing more: I did a rev-limiter-removal by cutting the little peace of metal between the slot and hole on the metal disk out of the ignition unit. Could this have any thing to do with it? I don't think so, because the engine ran ok!




gr Chrismo
 

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Will do Frank....

Ow and the limiter put back, well that won't be possible, I have to get another one. Because the disk is not able to be changed back into original shape.





Chrismo
 
Will do Frank....

Ow and the limiter put back, well that won't be possible, I have to get another one. Because the disk is not able to be changed back into original shape.





Chrismo

would a bit of tape over the bit you filed away be ok to test it chris ?
edit, and that timing looks ok to me chris (and i found that these cams dont like the clearance too tight btw, my autosprint clearances are 15 thou")
 
Don't think so. There is a sort of "eye" detecting the metal, or no metal parts. Don't think this has any effect. What about the cams Frank? They look a lot bigger than the ones you posted ;-) But timing is not my problem though.

Is there perhaps anybody who has the 773 cams too?




gr Chrismo
 
i edited my previous post chris btw :wasntme:
and i think the sensor is optical (the black tape over the round hole worked ok on my 1.0 engine)
 
Damn damn......I had another tb, out of an older K11 type (never knew there was any difference between them), and solded the maf-sensor out of that one into mine. Unfortunately mine broke getting it off. So I HAD to place that other one. Seems they are optical not the same, also inside there are some differences. The engine runs like a idiot, and way to lean.

Damn, and I have to get to work with this car tomorrow. Well I think I know what to do next, the only option left: Get me anoter ignition and tb...




gr Chrismo
 
Yesterday got myself a new tb. Car is running fine now! Realy great. Unfortunately a new tb isn't cheap, but it's worth every euro!

Now another "problem", the basic idle is too low. The engine runs at 550-600 rpm and in combination with the 773 cams, this is not running nice!
I did turn the idle screw but the ecu/iacv sets it back to 550 automaticly.

I know there must be a trick to do this... Something like: 3x rev to 3000 rmp, engine off, tpsconnector loss, engine start, 3xrev to 3000 rpm. Set idle, engine off, connect tps again.

I thought this was THE way of doiing this, but it won't work.





Who knows?



gr Chrismo
 
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