CMF_GT
» CMF Member
I was looking on rallynuts for some new brakes and seen that there is GTi-R brakes for the K11, I know that’s not new to some of you but Iv never seen them. Has anyone got pics off them and where can you get the calipers from.
GTi-R brakes
- Thread starter CMF_GT
- Start date
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberthey basically look like a micra caliper but bigger.
if you have a march k11 they wont fit.
brakeparts.co.uk
if you have a march k11 they wont fit.
brakeparts.co.uk
CMF_SSUK
» CMF MemberHere's a comparison of standard brakes to a gti-r conversion. Hope that help 
CMF_Brendon
» CMF Memberjust ge sure they will be ok. coz they designed to carry a car which weighs 1200kg so it takes a lot longer for them to heat up. cisco had some on his car and they did not heat up enough and brake dust would build on the disc resulting in shudder. just 15inch wheels are a minimum. well you can have 14 but tight fit. i own a GTIR and i was thinkin of getting some of that rally nuts stuff. is it any good??
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberthey weigh a ton. but still they wont fade with good pads.
aluminium calipers and discs like the early elise uses would be nice to have, its all expence choosing though.
btw the elise changed after not long to steel discs as they had problems with suppliers not making them good enough from that aluminium, must be hard to quailty check.
aluminium calipers and discs like the early elise uses would be nice to have, its all expence choosing though.
btw the elise changed after not long to steel discs as they had problems with suppliers not making them good enough from that aluminium, must be hard to quailty check.
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberthe elise has 280mm vented discs compared to gtir 256mm. and the elise weighs 690kgs. that doesnt have warm up problems. so it must be a design issue on the gtir calipers or some kind of pad fault in that example?
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberAs what polar said.
The issue you are describing is of incorrect pad selection. Clearly the pads had a very high operational temperature and just weren't suited to the application resulting in the shudder.
CMF_Brendon
» CMF Memberthe pads are ebc greenstuff pads. they fine on my car but the other owner who had them had the problem with the brake shudder not me.
i may have a set of gtir brakes for sale in next few months as i looking to upgrade to gtr skyline brakes.
i may have a set of gtir brakes for sale in next few months as i looking to upgrade to gtr skyline brakes.
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberYeh they're a 'premium' pad designed to get hot.
My lucas pads are kinda the same, if I dont give the brakes a workout every now and again they start to squeal pretty badly. No shuddering, just squealing. One or two hard stops from 100km/hr and the squealing is gone.
My lucas pads are kinda the same, if I dont give the brakes a workout every now and again they start to squeal pretty badly. No shuddering, just squealing. One or two hard stops from 100km/hr and the squealing is gone.
CMF_ed.
» CMF MemberJust get some pads rated for 0-600 for the street and switch to higher temp pads when you hit the track.
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberNot the best blanket suggestion in existance when it comes to brake pads but it makes sense.
Personally I'm a lazy poo and I'd rather just have the one set of pads. QLD people might wish to investigate QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) brake pads. Proven many times to be better than alot of the 'big' brands available off the shelves and excellent heat range with excellent dusting/bite properties.
Personally I'm a lazy poo and I'd rather just have the one set of pads. QLD people might wish to investigate QFM (Queensland Friction Materials) brake pads. Proven many times to be better than alot of the 'big' brands available off the shelves and excellent heat range with excellent dusting/bite properties.
CMF_ed.
» CMF MemberBlanket suggestion? How so?
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberI forget exactly why. I had a good reason earlier this morning but I can't remember it.
Was something to do with the car itself anyway...
Probably best not to take anything I say seriously anymore. I'm starting to get frustrated with micras and its reflecting on my opinions about them I think.
Was something to do with the car itself anyway...
Probably best not to take anything I say seriously anymore. I'm starting to get frustrated with micras and its reflecting on my opinions about them I think.
CMF_Snoopy
» CMF MemberIts all good Tom. I will take you for a run in my car when the mod plate is on, get you excited about micra's again
CMF_GT
» CMF MemberBrendon, I highly recommend rally nuts for all of there stuff I haven’t had a problem yet. How much whod you want for them? And thanks for the help everyone.
CMF_Brendon
» CMF Memberdont know how much i would want. as it wont de for a few months anyway. when the guy i buying the skyline brakes off is ready to change his brakes then ill get his. they would be heavy to post anywhere. especially overseas.
CMF_Polar
» CMF Membergreenstuff are a cold type pad. they work best from cold to normal temps. soon as they get hot/overheat they are crap. i had some fitted to my standard gti last week, went for 15 min drive for fun this evening. after 5 mins they were hot and starting to fade, after 10 mins i had no brakes the pedal was soft and went all the way to the floor even on gentle braking from 30mph etc. no force to the brakes at all, no chance of getting the abs to activate. amazed at how poor they are. hope to wear them down quick and i will get a high temp range pad from mintex/pagid/OMP/red dot/tarox. those brands i need to try out their track/competition pads.
CMF_SSUK
» CMF MemberI had Greenstuff, as you can see from the photo. Not very impressed at all really. Initially they are very good, but after a while they loose their edge and even from cold are dissapointing. I now use Mintex M1144's and find them to be much better.
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberi have faint black burn streaks on my discs now from when they overheated, shows how bad they are. they definately dont like the heat. they could be better on plain discs for fast street, street being the main word. i had them fitted with grooved and drilled discs also (which are vented as standard) so wasnt expecting fade to be so bad. but i have heard that the grooves aswell as expeling gasses actually increase the friction on the pad, which could be part of the overheating problem?
but in anycase i will never use greenstuff again.
but i think they are ok when cold, good initial bite as they are a soft pad. but i havent compared them to other uprated pads. certianly my standard pads worked better when hot.
but in anycase i will never use greenstuff again.
but i think they are ok when cold, good initial bite as they are a soft pad. but i havent compared them to other uprated pads. certianly my standard pads worked better when hot.
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberintersting factoid you might like. it actually doesnt matter which way around you fit the discs with groves and drill holes that arc either forwards or backwards. the only thing to look for is if the internal vent vanes if you have them are stragiht or curved. if they are curved they need to be arcing so the air is forced outwards of the disc. mine are straight so it doesnt matter.
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberOn just plain slotted rotors (not drilled) it has been shown that the direction you put the grooves can affect wet conditions braking.
Slotted rotors are becoming quite popular for hardcore offroaders due to the extra ability of the rotors to channel water out from between the pad and rotor surface.
Seeing as there was already one interesting point I thought I'd add another.
Slotted rotors are becoming quite popular for hardcore offroaders due to the extra ability of the rotors to channel water out from between the pad and rotor surface.
Seeing as there was already one interesting point I thought I'd add another.
CMF_Snoopy
» CMF MemberI will be updating to gti-r brakes after last weekend drive down henry roberts drive. Basic I have n14 1.6 brakes with qfm HPX pads & they are rubbish.
Apparently the old guy that used to bond the pads for qfm died (may he rest in piece) & his son has taken over. Speaking to other that use qfm they have found that that last lot of pads (like mine) have been crap.
I was over taking someone who was riding there brake down the mountain. I hit 110km/h overtaking him & had to slow down for a 60km/h sweeping corner (that had just perfect camber, that aloud you to take it at well past 60). I hit the brakes hard to bring the speed down to 80km/h (on a 13% downhill gradient) & the brakes went spongy & very unresponsive after this one corner. I was driving sedate up until this corner so the brakes where only at operating temp.
I had to nurse the brakes for a while to let them cool down. Very unhappy with qfm.
So I have a question for the guys with the gti-r brakes. What pads are you using & what to you think of them.
Apparently the old guy that used to bond the pads for qfm died (may he rest in piece) & his son has taken over. Speaking to other that use qfm they have found that that last lot of pads (like mine) have been crap.
I was over taking someone who was riding there brake down the mountain. I hit 110km/h overtaking him & had to slow down for a 60km/h sweeping corner (that had just perfect camber, that aloud you to take it at well past 60). I hit the brakes hard to bring the speed down to 80km/h (on a 13% downhill gradient) & the brakes went spongy & very unresponsive after this one corner. I was driving sedate up until this corner so the brakes where only at operating temp.
I had to nurse the brakes for a while to let them cool down. Very unhappy with qfm.
So I have a question for the guys with the gti-r brakes. What pads are you using & what to you think of them.
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberOH snap!
Thats no good.
Might have to stick with the tried and true Lucas pads.
PS: don't get the ferodo ds2500 pads whatever you do. for the ad22vf they're actually cut from a larger pad and the backplate has pressed indent thingos in it, positioned in really bad places. So what happens is that the piston side pad will bend around the piston. This means you get good brakes for about 31.834seconds and then your brakes are rat**** and your rotors have just been chewed up by metal to metal contact.
a few of the turbo pulsar boys have just learnt this expensive lesson and are chasing ferodo for compensation.
Thats no good.
Might have to stick with the tried and true Lucas pads.
PS: don't get the ferodo ds2500 pads whatever you do. for the ad22vf they're actually cut from a larger pad and the backplate has pressed indent thingos in it, positioned in really bad places. So what happens is that the piston side pad will bend around the piston. This means you get good brakes for about 31.834seconds and then your brakes are rat**** and your rotors have just been chewed up by metal to metal contact.
a few of the turbo pulsar boys have just learnt this expensive lesson and are chasing ferodo for compensation.
CMF_Nissanmania
» CMF MemberPersonal experience with Lucas pads with N14 1.6 brakes - dozen laps around racetrack (braking from up to 150km/h) and brakes as good on the last lap as the first. Running fresh Ferodo Dot 4 fluid. Work just as well on the street. Can't see any reason to go with bigger/better brakes - yet!
CMF_Brendon
» CMF Memberi got the greenstuff semi race pads. and they are fantatstic. once they get up to operating temperature they stop very very well. your face almost falls off sometimes.
CMF_Polar
» CMF Memberi remember a turbo micra owner say the GTIR brakes with redstuffpads faded after heavy use. i guess we are all different as it depends how hard and often we stamp on the pedal to make our opinions.
on my test i lost my brakes after 5 minutes. this was from say 3-4 seconds of acceleration, then stamp on the brakes then corner, a few more seconds stamp on the brakes corner.. and so on. then the greenstuff burnt.
thats was from low speed deceleration from no more than 55mph probably.
on my test i lost my brakes after 5 minutes. this was from say 3-4 seconds of acceleration, then stamp on the brakes then corner, a few more seconds stamp on the brakes corner.. and so on. then the greenstuff burnt.
thats was from low speed deceleration from no more than 55mph probably.
CMF_Brendon
» CMF Memberyeah i spose. depends on how hard you drive and how much you do rely on brakes.
mine do eventually start to fade but its very common on a GTIR for that coz the air ducting isnt very good and the brakes could be bigger.
but they are great until they start fading which i have encountered a couple of times on very high spirited driving.
mine do eventually start to fade but its very common on a GTIR for that coz the air ducting isnt very good and the brakes could be bigger.
but they are great until they start fading which i have encountered a couple of times on very high spirited driving.
Yom WROTE:
"OH snap!
Thats no good.
Might have to stick with the tried and true Lucas pads.
PS: don't get the ferodo ds2500 pads whatever you do. for the ad22vf they're actually cut from a larger pad and the backplate has pressed indent thingos in it, positioned in really bad places. So what happens is that the piston side pad will bend around the piston. This means you get good brakes for about 31.834seconds and then your brakes are rat**** and your rotors have just been chewed up by metal to metal contact.
a few of the turbo pulsar boys have just learnt this expensive lesson and are chasing ferodo for compensation.
Yom,
To clarify, I am pretty sure the problem exists because they are cutting them from a pad that they shouldnt be. I run ds2500s on my gtir brakes and havent had the problem described. FWIW i believe mine were cut from an evo5 pad. Anyway when they work they are a great pad
Also might be worth looking at the Hawk performance pads, I have heard good things. Of course pagid are good too, but usually are quite expensive.
Are you guys replacing the rear drums on your micras? I have had to hit the brakes once hard in the micra and it wasnt a great feeling. I guess they're reasonable but not great. I might start by upgrading the front pads, what brands are available (im talking stock brakes here)? Can I get Bendix Ultimates?
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberStock brakes are your problem. LX and SLX are terrible to drive with the standard brakes. Super S are a little better with the rear discs but still average. If you feel the drums are causing you grief after you've done a pulsar brake upgrade you could look to Japan for performance drum shoes.
As for the front brakes, just go straight to Pulsar discs and calipers mate. They slip straight on (just need some washers to space the caliper over the rotor properly). Not only will the braking be safer and more controllable but you'll have a much wider variety of brake pads available to you.
As for the front brakes, just go straight to Pulsar discs and calipers mate. They slip straight on (just need some washers to space the caliper over the rotor properly). Not only will the braking be safer and more controllable but you'll have a much wider variety of brake pads available to you.
