Hi all. I took the leap and finally registered. I think I had to do it with a vpn because I am in Bulgaria. I have a Haynes manual for a right hand driving Micra and my Micra is a European lefty. Also, I have translated the page for the Italian Micra club from time to time for info. As an English speaking expat in Bulgaria, this forum has been really helpful. Also, Sander's company/website is a great resource (https://www.nissan-autoparts.nl/). Sander's site has a schematic for the place where the part goes with a photo of the part. I'd say I'm a beginner and double checking the schematic helps. So, I did an AC delete and sanded, primed and painted the sourced brackets when I moved the ALT. I'm concentrating on fixing up the engine bay. And I want to paint the HOT AIR SHROUD or what I would call the heat shield for the exhaust manifold. QUESTION: Can I spray the bolts with penetraing oil (the brand we know that has the long red straw)? And let it sit over night. I think I will try to bend the straw under the shroud to hit the bolt as much as possible. And spray the head of the bolt from the outside. I realize the bolt is rather flush to the actual shield. I just want to avoid breaking them. Would the manifold smoke for a while afterward? Will it eventually burn off completely and not stink? Also, I'm doing this when it is very cold (high for the day around 4 C). I'm waiting for the dizzy to come back from being rebuilt. 1998 1.0 litre. Thanks - sorry for the long explanation -Troy
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Exhaust shield (aka hot air shroud) bolts
- Thread starter micrabulgariatroy
- Start date
I would get them really hot and then try removing them. Or weld a nut onto them and undo it that way.
I wouldnt really be bothered by saving the bolts as they are cheap and still available. (part no is 0112107141)
And yes you can use penetrating oil and it will burn of but if youre painting it i wouldnt spay to much on as it can hinder the paint.
Also see this site for the part diagrams: http://nissan4u.com/
I wouldnt really be bothered by saving the bolts as they are cheap and still available. (part no is 0112107141)
And yes you can use penetrating oil and it will burn of but if youre painting it i wouldnt spay to much on as it can hinder the paint.
Also see this site for the part diagrams: http://nissan4u.com/
Hi, all. Hi, Maarten. Greetings. Yesterday, I used a breaker bar (cheater bar) and I very slowly and carefully loosened them. Success! No breaking. Like I said, I sprayed them a bit with penetrating oil the day before. I did the work in the outdoors. And the temperature was 0 celcius at the time. I probably should have heated them up. Maybe the very cold manifold and the cold bolt pulled away from each other more easily. So, I was surprised on the first one because they are only into the manifold one centimeter. They are short. I was sure I had sheared off the bolt. I really expected them to be longer.
Yeah, I did not use a lot of penetrating oil. I do want to paint the shroud. But maybe even a little is too much. I'm learning. My local auto paint shop supplier has a generic container of what they call, 'degreaser'. They say you use it to remove oils as a precaution before painting. But I can imagine that it does PENETRATE and I suppose you can not get it all off the metal shroud (the Wdd 40, not the degreaser). And I think what they sell as degreaser in their clear, unmarked container is really just a good mineral spirit. I rubbed into the metal with some generic mineral spirits and also 95 percent alcohol with a clean cloth. Has anyone done the same before letting it get really dry before sanding and priming? and then have a successful paint bonding? Would rust converter work too? turns iron oxide into a surface that is more stable, no? I'm still moving forward on painting it nonetheless. I just had a little penetrating oil run down from the bolt holes.
I plan on painting it with a heat resistant paint. And I found these bolts that seem to be the exact same size but are zinc coated. I think they are zinc coated - i said stainless steel and I got these from over the counter. I rather like them because I would call them brushed steel if I were at the plumbing store shopping for a faucet. It does seem wise to discard the used bots.
Note the bolts that I got from the construction supply store as photos -the thread seems to be the same. Thanks, Maarten. I will also note the proper part number.
Yeah, I did not use a lot of penetrating oil. I do want to paint the shroud. But maybe even a little is too much. I'm learning. My local auto paint shop supplier has a generic container of what they call, 'degreaser'. They say you use it to remove oils as a precaution before painting. But I can imagine that it does PENETRATE and I suppose you can not get it all off the metal shroud (the Wdd 40, not the degreaser). And I think what they sell as degreaser in their clear, unmarked container is really just a good mineral spirit. I rubbed into the metal with some generic mineral spirits and also 95 percent alcohol with a clean cloth. Has anyone done the same before letting it get really dry before sanding and priming? and then have a successful paint bonding? Would rust converter work too? turns iron oxide into a surface that is more stable, no? I'm still moving forward on painting it nonetheless. I just had a little penetrating oil run down from the bolt holes.
I plan on painting it with a heat resistant paint. And I found these bolts that seem to be the exact same size but are zinc coated. I think they are zinc coated - i said stainless steel and I got these from over the counter. I rather like them because I would call them brushed steel if I were at the plumbing store shopping for a faucet. It does seem wise to discard the used bots.
Note the bolts that I got from the construction supply store as photos -the thread seems to be the same. Thanks, Maarten. I will also note the proper part number.
