I gave collision a huuuge long winded guide via pm ages ago...it went like this...:wasntme:
i used a Stani to fit mine!!
Seriously though, mines came with the entire sr loom, with leccy window/speaker/central locking all in a big thick cable...so i stripped it down to just the mirror wiring.So i was left with one long skinny wire wrapped in tape, with the connection plugs at each end for the mirrors, and the connector for the contol switch closer to the driver side mirror, the connection for the control switch had a yellow(live) and black(ground) wire coming out just below it.
To fit the wiring, we ran the loom along the back of the footwell, behind the centre console and under the carpet as much as poss.Stani got the wee tabs out of the glove box and whipped it out, then you can get to the rubber grommet that the speaker and leccy window wire goes through, and passes into the door through another grommet.There's some sponge in front of this, just pull it outta the way.
You can either slit the rubber and shove the connector through both grommets, i did that on the drivers side, or just pop them out and pull the connector through, and stuff the grommet back in to wedge the wiring in the hole like mr Stanhope did!Drivers side is easier, you just reach underneath the fusebox and do the same.
Then it's door cards off, and feed the wires inside,
just make sure you don't feed the wire under the window if you know what i mean, because when you wind the window down, it will get pulled down by the glass as it drops.Keep it to the inside of the vertical rail, closest to you, and stick the connector to the inside of the door.
So, once you've done all that, you'll have both connectors through the door grommets, and inside the doors, the wiring running along the footwell, and the connector for your control switch will be under the steering wheel, and you'll be wondering where to put it... i got Stani to cut a hole in the dash, above the fuse box cover (can take pics if needed)
The switch can be separated from the wires, but it's a small grey tab you have to push from the side of the connector, not the black ones where the wires come out the back of the block to separate it!Look at the block from the side, it's recessed inside, push it with a pokey thing and it will pull apart.
I measured the control block with calipers, and used the calipers to mark the hole to be cut, shove the connector through the hole from the inside, clip it to the control switch, and push the whole lot back into the hole, but not before you test them...and for that you need power!!The yellow wire is the live, and conveniently, the fuse box happens to be full of live points
i chose the horn fuse to wrap the live wire round because it's always live, so you can fold the mirrors even with the ignition off...
I DONT KNOW IF THIS IS A GOOD IDEA, MIGHT BE A POSSIBLE FIRE HAZARD, AS THE MIRRORS WILL ALWAYS HAVE POWER, AND IT IS A BODGE JOB!!!
Main thing is, it worked for me!The ground wire can be either attatched to the ground point down in the footwell, or as i did, the screw that holds the diagnostic plug below the fuses...fwn
So, plugs inside each door, control switch in dash, power from a fuse, ground where you choose to put it...Now plug in both mirrors and test them...hopefully they will work!
Now you fit the mirrors to the doors, plug the in wires and that should be everything working. When you refit the doorcards, there will be a bit of wire from the mirrors on show, but the door cards will hold it in place!
We got this done in about an hour, but i will be completely honest, if i'd done it myself i would still be wedged in a footwell, with my hand stuck under the glovebox!!!If you need some pics i can take some later and btw, they're awesome, and i guarantee you will be folding em in and out like a fiddlers elbow!! (Y)
Mikey
