6x9

hey i honestly dont think you'll be happy with just those speakers.
you need an amp and 2 sets of speakers to make your car sound anygood, have a look at car audio security as they are cheap for what you get and you can just buy the package and then you got it all :D will sound good if you just let the stereo play the music and let the amp deal with all the powering of the speakers.

have a look at the package deals: http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/subcategories/c_path/3_96/spd/amp-sub-packages.html

hope this is some help
 
andy88 said:
are they to be run off the head unit or amp?
6x9 always sound better when amped imo.
Click to expand...
An amplifier just boosts a signal. It doesn't colour it or improve it. The 4x50watt that I've got in my head will be the same as the 4x50watt in an external amp, the only major difference is that the external amp is DEDICATED to that task...Which doesn't really matter (imo) as they'll both do the job equally as well. You can probably reduce noise using an external amp, but as soon as you turn the music up to a certain point you'll never even notice that there's noise there in the first place.

To me it seems like there are very few reasons to run an external amp. The major one I can think of is to have MORE speakers...But then you need to consider how many you really need. 4xFull Range PA speakers? 2 in the front and 2 in the back? Perhaps a subwoofer? If you consider that I can fill a hall with a perfect 20hz->20khz signal with woofers, in only 4 speakers total (2 bass bins and 2 full ranges)...Doesn't it seem a little silly to want masses of speakers in a car?

4 Speakers + 1 Sub is enough for pretty much any car. You don't need to have 100+ watt speakers, just find some decent 50watts with high SPL! Just because the wattage in the speaker is higher than another speaker, does not make it louder, clearer or capable of holding high volumes better. I've got a 300watt 90SPL bass cabinet that's QUIETER than a 150watt 110SPL cabinet my friend has...Ohms fall into volume too, but SPL is the important factor.

Summary: High SPL, Low Wattage, 4 Speakers + 1 sub, 50watt per speaker. That'll do practically anything imo.

Sorry for the rant. :D

Edit: As for subs...I've got a 12" somewhere with an SPL of 110 and that thing rumbles the earth like nothing else. Also with some smart load/ohm balancing, you can probably run a sub off a 4x50w 4ohm min head unit using an LPF.
 
JStone said:
An amplifier just boosts a signal. It doesn't colour it or improve it. The 4x50watt that I've got in my head will be the same as the 4x50watt in an external amp
Click to expand...

Not strictly true, particularly when talking about rms and I'd really disagree on there not being any point in running an external amp. Most headunits offer around 10-15wrms per channel (max). Most external amps offer at least 50wrms per channel and usually with a lower THD rating.

High efficiency and good clean power are the important things to consider.
 
Retepetsir said:
Not strictly true, particularly when talking about rms and I'd really disagree on there not being any point in running an external amp. Most headunits offer around 10-15wrms per channel (max). Most external amps offer at least 50wrms per channel and usually with a lower THD rating.

High efficiency and good clean power are the important things to consider.
Click to expand...
Okay, I get your point about THD and RMS power...but really. 4 good speakers with a decent SPL running at 15wRMS will be loud enough to fill a car. If you wanted some nice subs, I could understand an amp, but I never got (ever) why people fill their cars with say, 2kWatt of amps + speakers when you don't NEED that. 2k PA systems can fill MASSIVE venues for crying out loud! :glare:
 
ok, all i am having in my car is new front door speakers - 6x9 on the parcel shelf - sub and amp in the boot

sound any good?
dnt reali know where to wire up and stuf tho lol
 
JStone said:
Okay, I get your point about THD and RMS power...but really. 4 good speakers with a decent SPL running at 15wRMS will be loud enough to fill a car. If you wanted some nice subs, I could understand an amp, but I never got (ever) why people fill their cars with say, 2kWatt of amps + speakers when you don't NEED that. 2k PA systems can fill MASSIVE venues for crying out loud! :glare:
Click to expand...

It's all to do with efficiency. PA speakers play into large cabinets which increases their efficiency and lowers their power handling/requirements for power.

In a car the space available is minimal, so efficiency is sacrificed for space saving and the need for only small enclosures. You then need more power to achieve the same output with a good amount of cone control :)

micramac that sounds fine.
 
Retepetsir said:
It's all to do with efficiency. PA speakers play into large cabinets which increases their efficiency and lowers their power handling/requirements for power.

In a car the space available is minimal, so efficiency is sacrificed for space saving and the need for only small enclosures. You then need more power to achieve the same output with a good amount of cone control :)
Click to expand...
You're talking about filling a small self contained box that's less than 3m x 3m in size! You don't need masses of power for that. It'd be like my taking a 4k P.A. rig into a small pub for karaoke!
 
i have just been looking at previous posts. I believe that my micra (1996 K11 Vibe) has wires already going to the back of my car (the boot area) this means that all i need to do is locate the wires, put my 6x9 into my parcel shelf then attach the located wires to the 6x9 then turn on my cd player and boom! sound pumping micra?
 
i did have my old 6x9s hooked up to an amp, then blew up my amp and connected them to the cd player! You can tell the difference in quality!!!!!!!!
 
ahh a thaught so

cheers bud (Y)

so if the wires go to the boot of my car does it mean that there is a set of wires at the right side of the boot for one 6x9 and a set of wires at the left side for the other 6x9?
 
so all the wires will come from the driver side and stretch to under the parcel shelf?

also are the wires alredy pluged into the head unit and ready to go? its jst the 6x9s that have to be attached?
 
I think that's the case yeah.

When you run uprated speakers etc, you'd normally uprate the wiring too - that's why i said the standard cabling might not be suitable.. but you'l probably be ok.
 
Yeah that is the case. There will be an ISO Block, with the cabling in a protective sheath.

I just cut the ISO block off, and connected the wires to the speakers using a connecting block. I know people moan about the quality, but it works! :D
 
The wires that Nissan put in are a low quality wire, therefore the audio loses slight quality. However I don't find this noticeable, so I wouldn't worry.
 
Retepetsir said:
Copper is copper. They'll be fine unless running lots more power.
Click to expand...
I'll further that with a better description.

You can run your audio signal down a single peice of copper wire as thick as a beard hair and it'll keep quality, the only problem is HEAT. If you're trying to pump out 350w to a subwoofer and you've got some puny thin wire, it can heat up. Running my 600w bass amp on a bit of nissans "default" wire would cause the wire to heat up, far increasing my risk of a short which would blow up my amp! So the solution is to use low resistance high guage wire for amps and from Head Unit -> Amp you want low capacitance cable. I use 9AW for my bass amp, and 14AW in my car (Just because it was laying around) and there are several things to watch out for when buying cable (you can get bilked my some people!)

"Gold Contacts":- Only useful in situations where the plugs are not being unplugged and plugged back in often and places where errosion is an important factor.
"Oxygen Free":- This does nothing. It will seriously do nothing. There's NO difference in the signal quality between Oxygen free and standard cable.
"Extra Fine Stranded Cable":- People claim that by taking tiny thin wires and then winding them into say 14AW gauge cable, that it'll reduce loss in high frequencies, which is true...except it reduces the loss in RADIO frequencies, not audible. There's no difference between a solid wire, stranded wire or fine stranded. They'll all perform the same, only difference is how flexible they are.

Imo, you should be fine with the regular wire that comes with the car. I'd just rather run things with larger gauges to prevent fiddling with tiny little wires.:wasntme:

/rant
 
so with the standard nissan wireing in the boot of my car, should i cut the ISO block off and then wind the new wires that come with my speakers to the standard wires then fit my speakers?

:confused:
 
Yup, but i'd use a connector of some sort rather than just winding them together.

Try a scrapyard and get the other side of the ISO plug maybe.
 

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