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Gentlemen, I believe a correction is in order. Hit a large pothole last week and the 'metalish' sound from front axle slowly returned. Opened up the hub and to my surprise, did not found any spacer.. just a rusty goo. I have new lower and upper balljoints, both silencers for transverse link...

Well well well. Bought new bearings (btw, external diameter of the casing was 0.5mm larger.. no idea how the manufacturer thought I should get them in, so I used old ones.. fortunately, the inner part was exactly the same) Then I started to look for a spacer. Surprise surprise, nowhere to be...

Exactly. And for that I need that damned spacer :/ The wider the spacer, the lower the preload. I will probably set it on something quite low - to make it turn easy with hand even with 100 lb/ft torque on it, as you say. Btw, I've just found, that stainless steel razors thickness is ranging...

Maybe it is not call preload, but you have to set it, otherwise the bearings will crap themselves :/ And that's precisely what happened to me. See attached image, mainly point 15. and figure 10.13. If you don't use a spacer, it means, that 100 lb/ft will press directly on the rollers and... you...

Thought about that, but taking out the casing is quite a hammer intensive job, there is a chance I will damage it (probably not), but mainly, I would have to find someone capable of grinding the exact number off it. I don't have a lathe :/ In fact, even the exact number is a mystery - I would...

Well, I heated up one part - outside, that slid down easily (as expected). On the inside part I used a hammer, but via wooden block. Thanks to lubrication and clean, new bearing, it went down fine, no extremely hard hits. Of course, I didn't hit the rollers. If it helps - both bearings were...

I am back :) It seems, that the replacement bearing was a little bit different in size - the spacer that fits between the two bearings was too small for new bearings and caused the whole assembly to be quite hard to turn. (Silly me - did not check with bearing on the other wheel, which turned...

Only if the twin bearing had two removable parts (like on the picture I linked in the previous post, but without outer metal ring). Ebay says that it has two parts + two rubber protectors too. Thanks for the advice :)

Oh my.. I did not even think about that :D If I understand correctly, the damaged part is an outer part of the bearing (= case) and when the new bearings arrive tomorrow morning, there would be a new case? (like this? http://www.micksgarage.com/img/td/57/el/QWB355-0.jpg) In that case...

Hi there. During past few days I've noticed whirring sound coming from front right wheel, in speeds higher than 15 mph. I supposed, that it wasn't the CV-joint, because it should click (not whirr) in hard turns (and it did, but only slightly). Yesterday I bought and replaced the CV-joint, to...

well, if i were you, i would just wipe it dry and check after few miles.. if it drips from oil switch, simply replace it, it is just a screw... or wrap teflon tape around it and if it stops the leak, you're done.. if it's not a switch, have you checked if the oil filter is screwed in tight?

well for starters, i would plug the C. then it will suck cold air only, just like micra's with the manual flap is D connected to the airbox? or is it just the photo? if i remember correctly, B is connected to temperature "switch" in the airbox. it's the idle compensator, should be connected to...

alternator sounds like angry cat hi guys, i am having problems with an alternator.. in fact, with two of them. original, 24 years old alternator in my k10 stopped working few days ago. well, not completely, it produced some juice, but not enough. while idling, i read 13.00 volts on...

hi.. my ignition key snapped in half, one centimeter of its length is stuck in the ignition box.. when i insert the other half of the key, i can start the engine.. as a bonus, it is possible to remove the key while the engine is running is there any way of getting it out? i have very thin...

theoretically you could buy/borrow oil pressure gauge, maybe it would help confirming Baz's suspicion.. btw, sorry for thread "hijacking", but does anybody know, what should be the k10 1.0liter oil pressure when cold idle, warm idle, cold cruising and warm cruising? I saw it somewhere, but...

unfortunately can't verify that, but if there is some play and you cant find new hats (and do not have a CNC friend who could make them), just wrap a thin layer of teflon tape around the pins and then insert them.. worked for me, maybe a tin foil would be a good idea if the play is too big too

maybe this will help :)

if you dont have lots of money, it is best to determine the problem before replacing various parts :) try my trick with a screwdriver, or with grounded spark plug connected to center wire.. (screwdriver trick is a bit faster) if that did not help, i would go this way: 1) ignition on. is...

are you sure? my micra has points and the cap is held on with screws. liirge, you can check whether it's points or electronic by removing the cap and looking inside. dizzy with points would have few wires and of course, points inside.. electronic one will have only a metal plate under the...

you will find the thermostat when you will follow the top radiator tube. it comes to three-screw housing cover, unscrew it and there it is.. if it is stuck, dont lever it out, cut around the rim with sometihng sharp, but be careful, it is quite soft