Whiteline Swaybar Locking Kit + Spherical Droplinks

CMF_Alex_B

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Well i got my replacment rear swaybar fitted up with the new spherical droplinks earlier this week. Swaybar slides laterally when turning in, making clonk noise. Fitted up the swaybar locking kit today and took it for a drive, good as gold, no more noises when cornering or going over driveway entrances. I'm not too convinced thier chosen metal ring clamps will stay clamped on tight but i will see how they go, prefer something that is tightened somewhat like a zip tie,

KLC40-090 - Teflon Impregnated Spherical Droplinks 90-115mm lenght

Fitting Guide > http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z300_KLC40.pdf

W0450-(size) Swaybar lateral lock kit (available in DIA 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 27, 30mm)

Fitting Guide > http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z289_W0450.pdf

The Whiteline K11 93-97 rear swaybars are made in 20 and ADJ 22mm sizes,

I guess the real test will be a run up local mountain roads which are curvy and rough in some area's, fingers crossed she dosn't develop any noises :D

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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funny story about checking once, twice and three times :p i took the car for a spin up Mt Mee today with just the replacement swaybar and spherical links fitted. Well i must not have tightened the adjustable panhard rod well enough. Luckily i had already gone up the mountain and got 90% down when the nut came loose, whoooo, did she steer like a boat then, haha. Luckily parents house wasn't far so stoped in there and checked everything 6 times, sorted panhard and proceeded to buy some pincer style pliers to fit the lateral locking kit,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Hi Chris, If you want fitting i'd suggest you give Fulcrum Suspension a call, think thier at Moorooka. They can get all the whiteline gear and fit it up if you so whish,

Otherwise, you can buy direct off whiteline only via their webstore with creditcard, just search any of these partnumbers below without the '#' for current pricing (note they list EX GST prices as they deal overseas too, so australian orders need to add 10% GST + freight)

K11 93-97 March/Micra:

#1303312 ea Koni Adj F/Dampers x2req
#1102812 ea Koni Ext Adj R/Dampers x2req

#70140 H/Duty Coil Spring Pair 42mm lowered
#70142 H/Duty Coil Spring Pair 42mm lowered
#W0922 20MM Bump Stops

#KPR025 Adjustable Panhard Rod

#KSB605 Adjustable Front Strut Brace
#KSB708 Lower Control Arm Brace

#BNF31 20mm Front Swaybar HD
#BNR29XZ 20mm Rear Swaybar HD Ajdustable
#BNR29XZ 22mm Rear Swaybar HD Adjustable
#W0450-20 / W0450-22 20/22mm Swaybar Locking Kit
#KLC40-090 90-115mm Universal Spherical Droplinks
#KCA373 Castor/Anti-Lift Kit
*Provides extra +1.0deg static castor and significant amount of anti-lift
#KCA412 Camber Bolts +/- 1.5D

#KTA114 Adjustable Rear Trailing Arms

https://www.whiteline.com.au/store/

If i did it second time over, i would get Front 20mm & Rear Swaybar 20mm (22m is really only for turbo cars with 2-3x factory power i have put mine on the softest of three settings now, really like it there > was too harsh for me on hard or medium) and the front camber bolts. Then your choice of lowering springs/shocks. I felt the antilift kit gave me allot of dive but not much anti-lift, front+rear swaybars stoped allot of lift and even more dive, but again its probably essential to keep traction in turbo cars. All the other bits help but you just do not notice a huge jump up each time you add something once you have the rear swaybar and some + camber IMHO

knowing me i prolly get the upper and lower strut braces sometime this year :p then i have everything but the springs,

Alex
 

CMF_Polar

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do you mean the nut where the panhard bolts to the chasis/axle or the locking nut? i have had the locking nut come loose once. but it wont have any effect on the handling as the rod cant move it needs to be unbolted to rotate on adjustment.
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Oh...yeah, prices :p

Spherical Droplnks were $172AUD, abit exxy but OEM Nssan ones are $113AUD. Locking kit was around $20AUD + Postage via Overnight Airbag $14AUD??? not sure. And Rear swaybar is currently $235AUD + post (mine was a warranty replacment, so dont know postage on that)

Have a nice weekend,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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well the saga continues, the locking kit worked well. I had no noise from the rear end of the car for 2-3 days until i took it on some winding roads on last weekend, now the noise is worse than before. Pulled off the links, found the replacement droplink i recieved is now flogged out, asked for another. I just really whish things could get done right the first time,

Alex
 

cisco

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Damn, that absolutely sucks.

How come its flogged out? There's some broader problem going on here by the sounds of it. I wonder if the panhard moving around could have damaged it. You don't want bad sideways axle movement.

I'm interested in this weird sideways swaybar movement problem you've talked about before..
 

CMF_Alex_B

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I believe its because all the other three were tight before i fitted them (i was 100% happy with them), and the replacement wasn't very good compared to the others but i wasn't go too say it was faulty too, so just my mouth until i tried it. Whats really stoopid is i need my adj pamhard on basically factory lenght to get the swaybar to sit nicely with the links nice and perpendicular. Maybe there is some serious rear end chassis twist from previous accident? or is the replacement swaybar not made properly either? it measured up abit better than the old one. Maybe the rear end was mismade in the factory? who knows, really just want the dammned thing to just work/fit/not make noises. Seems i haven't had a good run of luck recently. The replacement windscreen i got fitted leaked water all through my dash/glovebox area, thats been resealed, fingers crossed it dosn't leak.

Alex

no...not all bad, actually i have awesome brakes thanks to your spare slx booster, w0000 these brakes are soo enjoyable :D
 

CMF_Alex_B

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turns out the panhard was only the length adjusting nut. I spoke to some people about what happened when i was coming down the long winding road where in the space af a few corners the car started to act extremely sloppy. Got it down too the front konis overheating or the tyres overheating, i think it was the konis. The N14 2.0L brakes started to fade too (first time ever) > few corners before the sloppyness started . It all went away after sitting for awhile and the car was almost back too normal when i left my parents house after tightening the panhard nut and checking everything over several times,

Alex

ps > and no we are not going down this road at the meet next sunday :D
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Reached the point where im 99% sure that the knocking noise that comes from both sides of the rear of the car is not the swaybar, nor the droplinks. It dosn't happen on heavy cornering, only on smooth sensiable driving/steering. I have the locking kit fitted and it has not moved from its orignal position and is working well. The droplinks arn't the source of the noise, as it makes the same noise with the OEM Nissan swaybar + old droplinks or the Whiteline bar. Its not the rear struts, checked their bolts all good, panhard bushes + bolts are good. I think maybe its the Upper Trailing Arms? their bushes are the weakest link, everything else is Urethane while they are still rubber. Haven't looked at teh whiteline adjustable lower trailing arms, it made this noise before i had them fitted.

any other ideas?

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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well, pulled everything off the Rear LH side of the car. found nothing that might cause this noise. Upper adn lower trailing arms are good, springs are seated good, panhard seem good.

Starting to think there is some kind of tool or spanner that was droped somewhere ir accidentally left somewhere in the rear end, as it sound like a little possum is sitting inside the spare wheel well with a ring spanner...wacking it on the chassis upon turn-in of corners,

really really frustrating noise, like last week i found my funky tool that winds the jack up/down floating around the boot, i test hit it on the chassis and it sounded just like the noise i get whilst on turning-in on corners> took the car for a drive and i didn't get any knocks, thought YES YES YES i have fixed the problem, grabbed a drink to head off on long drive and only just got down the street...and klunk.

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Just a note > it does the identical klunk on left and right corners and kinda sounds like it come from a different side of the rear end (why i only pulled apart one side of car) for left and right, can't be sure though

Alex
 

CMF_Geoff W

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Excellent stuff Alex!! I wasn't aware that the Lateral movement thingys were available. This has been my only complaint about the works kit I had fitted from Whiteline.
It is actually quite dangerous in the wet, even with the rear swaybar set on the softest (18mm) setting. I and one of my mates have come unstuck because of the apparent lack of a rear swaybar and then a sudden stiffening as the load is taken up when the swaybar completes its travel.

Freaky stuff I did have a stop-gap fix of a bit of heater hose and a hose clamp but this only lasts so long before it is forced out of position.

One question though, how do you get the clamp around the swaybar if it is still fitted to the vehicle?
 

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CMF_Alex_B

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Geoff, its easily fitted to the swaybar on the vehicle, you need to align the bar up on the car first then open up the urethane ring and metal clamp to fit them on. You dont need to remove the swaybar, just make sure you clean where the clamp part will go with some metho,

Alex
 

CMF_Geoff W

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Cheers Alex.

Micra_man yes there was a degree of lift off, but I am not so silly as to lift completely nor is my mate. You can feel the problem in the dry also but it is highlighted in the wet.
 

CMF_Alex_B

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just to clarify > the urethane rings are cut like the smayabr mounts so you can slip them over, and you unclip & bend open the metal ring clamps to get them on. I felt the same movement on high speed cornering, mainly on one particular high entrance which goes right then left, when turning in to the left part you could feel the bar slide and the car jolt/tremeble,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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any idea's? the same poping/klunky/knock noise is now happening more often, in sequences of two three on the LH side now > wheather turning left or right, still does it occasionally on the right rear to. It happens on weight transfer from left to right and can also happen when turning across a opposite slope gradient road. Thinking of pulling apart LH Rear end again. The upper trailing arm had two small cracks in the rubber at one end on one side, but i cant see there being enough movement in the rear suspension to get it to foul the chassis, remembering it dosn't happen on heavy cornering, on only smooth general driving and going over driveway gutters.

Alex
 

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CMF_Alex_B

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okay, removed the parcel shelf, folded seats up with thier bottoms, remove spare tire, tools and boot lining. Still knocked. I just undid whitline panhard rod and inspected all good. Had a real good look at where locking kit fits up and found i can push the other D - bush thing around abit which might allow the swaybar to slide laterally about 3-4mm
i think thats it, but i fail to see how i could better fit the locking kit :(. So, i have some big SS hose clamps i've bought, thinking of removing locking kit and repositing it again with the hose clamps (clamps look too wide though :(. I dont see why i have such a hard time with this knocking swaybar business, everybody elses seem to be okay? just so damn frustrating, can't seem to stop the noise, even the oem nissan bar slids around,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Got the replacement Rod end Today, but decided to have another go at refitting the old droplinks, got them on now. I heard the same old noise about 1/10th of the time it used to make it (only done it twice), so im undecided if it was the spherical links or something else. But this usually happens after changing something, i get all excited thinking aha i know what the noise is, then a few days later its back to its old self, Will post the outcome of all this

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Probelm sorted on friday, the knocking noise was the swaybar moving laterally ever so slightly, about 2mm. I removed the Swaybar and found that the locking kit i fitted wasn't snug enough with the urethane bushes on each side. See when you fit the locking kit you need to loosen the main D-Bushes and fit the locking kit then re-tension the D-Bushes (which i didn't know at the time). Unlike rubber, urethane dosn't compress and shrink in size, when its compressed it just squeezes elsewhere, hence you you tension up the D-Bushes it will squeeze out sideways and make a snug fit. Unfortunatly the steel clamps are one use only on the locking kit, but reguardless i pried them open and tried reclamping but one didn't stay put and kept moving. So I have now fitted the OEM Nissan rear swaybar and all is well, no knocks.

Alex

Alex
 
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