Help me solve this impossible problem.

Z

zlikk

Guest
I have a Micra k10 -88 with a problem i can't solve on my own and i'm about to give up, then i found this forum and u guys are my last hope.

First the car started to jerk while driving like it didn't get enough fuel.
I checked the fuel filter and it was completly shut. Turned out the fuel tank was rusty.

I changed the fueltank, filter and cleaned the carburator. Still the same problem!!

Then i changed the fuelpipes and cleaned the carburator again, still the same!

Today i changed the fuelpump and it didn't help either. :down:

It runs pretty good when engine is cold but after a few kilometers it starts jerking and sometimes but not often the engine dies.
When it starts jerking i have to stop and let the engine go on idling, then i can drive a few more kilometers before it happens again.

Please help me! Can something be wrong with the carburator, not cleaned properly or something?
Or perhaps something with the distribution?
 
New dizzy, new leads and new plugs, then fire a bottle of redex through the fuel tank. Also give the car a new air filter, basically give the car a basic service. Let us know how you get on

Hope this helps

Daz :alien:
 
you have a dodgy HT lead mate ;)

edit: decided to be a bit more helpful :p

take of the dizzy, clean all the gunk that will have formsed in there. and replace your HT leads. if you so wish a new dizzy would not go amiss
 
K10Daz said:
then fire a bottle of redex through the fuel tank.
Daz :alien:
Click to expand...

put the reedex diurectly into the carb :p works alot better!! smokes abit but works fine :)

if you wanna really give it a good clean whack some brake fluid down the carb and put some throttle. watch the carbon burn baby
 
hi m8 this happened to me mate after I had my engine steam cleaned. I took it to my local garage & he said it was leak somewhere or electrical fault, but he fixed it for £10
 
hey, I had the same problem myself only recently. My micra was driving fine when cold but after it warmed up it was jerking everywhere. I changed my coil, dizzy and leads and it runs like a dream again now.
 
Igniton coils can break down when they get warm. As mentioned change the coil and service the ignition. This usually solves most running problems.
 
I checked the dizzy today and cleaned it (not much to clean) and it looked like new so i don't think i need to change it.
I will change the leads tomorrow and if that doesn't work i'll change the coil.
I must get the car going soon, i'll keep u updated.
 
Is there any way to find out if the ignition coil is bad with a mulimeter or something? Or do i HAVE to buy a new one and hope for the best?
I checked the leads resistance and they were from about 10 Kohm down to 5 Kohm, is that ok?
 
change the leads!!!
for the price it good for the engine if it does not solve the problem but i seriously believe it will sort all your problems!!]

wayne
 
zlikk said:
Is there any way to find out if the ignition coil is bad with a mulimeter or something? Or do i HAVE to buy a new one and hope for the best?
I checked the leads resistance and they were from about 10 Kohm down to 5 Kohm, is that ok?
Click to expand...

It's easy enough to test the coil with a multimeter, but they quite often seem ok by this method, and don't work well...

Primary should be less than 10ohms (the spade terminals) and the secondary (- spade terminal to central hole) should be in the range of 5kohms to 50kohms I think. Also check to see if there is any connection between the coil body (car ground) and any terminal, as that would indicate the coil is leaking current. Sometimes they seem to work under test but heat up in operation then break.

Oh, and the resistance test on a multimeter is plenty enough (9V) for the coil to make sparks, so be warned...

The ignition lead resistance is about right.
 
I changed to new silicon leads and i haven't had the time to take the car for a longer testrun yet. But I drove for a couple of kilometers then i stoped at a gasstation and the car died like it was no idling.
It took several tries before it started again. There were no jerking or losing power this time but i think the problem remains.

Should i change the plugs and coil too? This car has already cost me much more then it's worth. :down:
 
rotor arm! has nobody suggested the rotor arm yet? my mates mk4 scrote had similar problems as you describe, replacement arm sorted it all out :D
 
well i have already checked dizzy and rotor and they look ok, no visible signs anyway.
Can the rotor arm and dizzy be bad even if there are no visible signs of damage?
 
is there any point in making suggestions if the person is too tight to spend on the car?

When your deaing with 15 year old cars, you should always allow for spark plugs/leads/cap/arm, as these never get changed. and they don't last for ever. They are the biggest single problem of poor starting and running - closely followed by the fuel filter
 
yup, change rotor arm and dizzy cap and check the spark plugs, if the plugs are black then mabey you'r autochoke is sticking. the autochoke hasnt worked properly on any of the K10's i have owned.
Owen
 
DoomPixie i think you are on to something there about the autochoke. What can i do to check it? I don't know much about carburators.

I will get a new coil on Monday, that might also be the problem. To be continued... :eek:
 
where abouts you from mate if you live near me ill fix it for you :D i live in portsmouth south coast, iv got **** loads of spare carbs and igniton parts
 
yeah i had this problem on the mini engine at college, i wouldnt worry too much as it isnt a big deal... any mechanic should have been able to tell you just to check that all ya cylinders are firing, make sure there isnt a slight blockage at all in the fuel line... change the HT leads and the odd spark plug might be a bit "tired".. anyways good luck and give us a shout if ya need mroe help and i will try and get to ya an fix it :p
 
the choke wouldnt cause these symptoms, not when the engine is hot.

On the K10 autochoke system, they either dont work at al, which is a complete pain when they're cold, or the fast idle mechanism doesnt come off when their hot, either way, making no difference to the warm/hot runing, the latter just giving a slightly annoying high tickover.
 
yeah mines got the high tickover despite being a low millage carb lol still i have a brand new weber to go on. until i can rebuild my hitachi :)
 
Krazy k10: I'm from sweden so it's a bit to far i guess ;)

I've been to a mechanic with the car three times (!) and he thought it was the rusty fueltank that caused these problems. But now i think it has to be something with the egnition because everything from the fueltank to the carburator is brand new.

New parts (that did not solve the problem):
Fueltank
fuellines
fuelpump
fuelfilter
HT leads

Things about to be changed:
sparkplugs
ignitioncoil
airfilter

I have checked the dizzy and rotorarm and i don't know when they were changed but they look like new.
I really hope the new ignitioncoil will solve the problem otherwise i don't know what it can be fwn
 
zlikk said:
New parts (that did not solve the problem):
Fueltank
fuellines
fuelpump
fuelfilter
HT leads

Things about to be changed:
sparkplugs
ignitioncoil
airfilter
/quote]

id have changed the plugs etc WAYYYYY before i changed tank etc!!!
Click to expand...
 
The tank needed to by changed because of rust, but it didn't have anything to do with this problem like the mechanic thought.
 
fwn Try this:
27-hitachicarb1.jpg
 
i Bought this: http://www.biltema.se/Archive/Product_images/53/Large/53-400_l.jpg

Connected the black and white wire with - ,and the blue wire with +
Yesterday it started but today it didn\'t start at all. I changed back to the old ignitioncoil and the car starts immedetly.

Have i connected the wires wrong or what can be the problem? the coil is brand nex.
 

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