Clutch replacement/gearbox swaps

[CMF_LWC]

What clutch/flywheel/pressure plate combos from Pulsars fit the Micra? Eg does a 1.6 pulsar kit fit right in? Is it easier/cheaper to get and work just as well.
What order of dismantling is needed to replace the clutch? Eg jack up car, drain gearbox, remove LH wheel, hub, driveshaft, clutch cable, speedo cable, support engine, remove gearbox mount, bellhousing bolts, support RH driveshaft, then remove gearbox, etc.? Does the box come out sideways easily or do you need to lower engine, too, etc.. I don't want any surprises later this year when I replace the clutch.
Thanks LWC

 

[CMF_Ghetto Micra]

i dont believe any pulsar clutch kit fits? or am I wrong?

my guide to clutch replacement:
jack car up on four stands if possible, two at least (front)

remove front wheels

remove cotter pina, washers and axle nuts (32mm? dunno)

remove two bolts holding hubs onto suspension struts

lever the hubs away from the axle. no need to remove the hub from the control arm (the tie rod or control arm) This should give you enough clearance to remove the axle out of the hub. Do both sides.

undo speedo, clutch cable, any plugs for reverse lights, etc.

*note - NO NEED to drain the gearbox fluid if you remove it this way, your going to remove it with the shafts still in the box, you'll never take the shafts out of the box

get a trolley jack under the gearbox and slightly support it. Undo all the selector rods off the control assembly. Undo ea gearbox bolt until all removed (from bellhousing -> block)

box should wiggle off the motor, takes a little work to wiggle the input shaft out of the clutch assembly which is on the motor still...

once removed, put box to the side. undo clutch pressure plate off flywheel, remove and remove clutch disc. inspect flywheel for wear, get machined if required, or scuff with some wet'n'dry. replace clutch in opposite order.. firstly aligning the clutch disc in the pressure plate with a socket extention bar, bit of pipe, or an actual clutch alignment tool. be sure to tighten pressure plate as per torque specifications. I dont believe you need to do it in any special sequence/order, but you can if you like..

slip the box back under, raise it. wiggle it gently back on so that the input shaft goes through the clutch. if it doesnt, no matter what you've tried.. then re-check the clutch for alignment within the pressure plate.

re-assmble in reverse order.

James

 

[CMF_White Knight]

Buy a Haynes manual.Plenty on e bay.
Also look at a heavy duty relacement clutch.
Talk to Errol at Datrats as there are a few options.

 

[CMF_NotAnotherSSS]

cisco just posted a heap of info regarding clutches - I think the 1.6l pulsar ga16de clutches fit in with a new flywheel.

BTW, just get the lightened flywheel - will make an amazing difference to the car's performance!

 

[cisco]

Yep, I would totally recommend the lightweight flywheel aswell.

Errol is working on an off-the-shelf solution of some particular pressure plates which are 190mm (like the pulsars) but will fit the micra's flywheel's lug pattern.

We found out eventually that NO the GA16DE's pressure plate does NOT bolt up to the micra's flywheel. I was lucky to already have some weird European LUK 190mm pressure plate in my car which combined with a pulsar 190mm friction plate works perfectlt. So this clutch change, I just had my pressure plate re-built with a new diaphram, but kept the same cover, plus got a new GA16 heavy duty exedy pressure plate.

I think the micra's hub nuts are 28mm, my pulsar shafts were 32mm which was a few mm larger than the micras.

I place one jackstand under each of the front chassis rails, but the more the better for safety obviously.

They do recommend to tighten up the pressure plate bolts diagonally.

I bought a clutch alignment tool, but ended up not needing it. Its pretty easy on the micra. There are these 3 large lug things on the pressure plate cover. If you put your finger behind them, you can feel the friction plate sticking out a little behind each one. Then because they are tri-symetrical, you just get the clearance distance equal on all three and you know the clutch is perfectly centered. I did this totally just by feel, you could feel it easily with your fingers. Then the gearbox popped straight into the input shaft no worries (took a lot of wiggles etc), but it drives perfectly. I also didn't have a mate to help install the gearbox, I lifted it up somehow myself by using the lower control brace as a pivot and controlling the jack with my foot. I was absolutely stuffed afterwards!

 

[cisco]

Make that 30mm for the hub nut size. I had to re-install s-shortcake the other day again, it aint 28