1.3 cams

Craig

Craig

Unofficial Member (Gold)
Club Member
£50+del or to the highest bidder, I am in watford or southampton so can meet up if people are near.
Let me know, Craig
 
right sorry craig for reserecting this thread but your pm box is slightly full :upside:

i know you have put 1.3 cams into a 1.0 engine, i was wondering do you now need to run on optimax or can u still run on 95 petrol?

i ask this becuase:

i dont know much about engines but from what i do know is that changing cams to 1.3 cams could increase compression. The 1.0 litre pistons are flat and the 1.3 domed, so IF 1.3 cams increase compression, then a 1.0 with 1.3 cams would have a higher compression then normal.....


thanks :)

i should mention that im not intrested in these cams im afraid i already have some lined up
 
You can still run 95 RON fuel.

Changing cams will not affect compression, think about it, the cam merely moves the valve backwards and forwards, nothing else. Yes 1.3 pistons are domed and 1l ones flat, but you are not doing anyhting to them so there is no affect on compression.
 
craig so uve fitted the 1.3 cams??? easy hard?
ive heard all u need are the tools (obviously lol) and haynes manual???
what bhp gain do you get by adding these to a 1.0L?? is it worth it?
do you need any other things that go with the cams?
napster
 
Sorry, must've missed it.

These are still for sale, all you need is a Haynes, torque wrench that goes down to 8Nm and some feeler blades, fitting is easy, just make sure that you keep the timing right, as for gans I would say that 10bhp is not exaggerating, all you should need woulf be the cams.
 
Craig said:
torque wrench that goes down to 8Nm and some feeler blades, fitting is easy, just make sure that you keep the timing right, as for gans I would say that 10bhp is not exaggerating.
Click to expand...

cheers for that craig!!

a torque rench i have but not sure on the "8Nm"??? thats a small "attachment" isnt it?
the timing...what do you mean by this...something with the valves and height (really not sure)?
also "10bhp" is alot? i dont know anthing so not "contridicting you" but can that be right? if its not "10bhp" what would be the lowest possible gain i could expect.

sorry
napster
 
from what i heard you'd be looking at between 10%-10bhp (so if you have 55bhp id say you'd b looking at a 5.5-10bhp change).

Cant help you with the timing im afriad, just have to wait for craig to return for that ;)

Me n Zeph are going to have a go at putting 1.3 cams into my facelift 1.0 (59bhp model) on monday, will let u know how it goes if you like...
 
rlees85 said:
from what i heard you'd be looking at between 10%-10bhp (so if you have 55bhp id say you'd b looking at a 5.5-10bhp change).

Cant help you with the timing im afriad, just have to wait for craig to return for that ;)

Me n Zeph are going to have a go at putting 1.3 cams into my facelift 1.0 (59bhp model) on monday, will let u know how it goes if you like...
Click to expand...

thats sweet mate :)
if you could let me know how you get on and if im being picky could some pictures be taken??

i suppose if its easy enough and a increase of between 5+10bhp i suppose its worth it in a 1.0L is it?
just dont want to install them wrong......ohh theres a question (might even be related to the TIMING thing), but is there a wrong way to put them in?

cheers
napster
 
rlees85 said:
yeah the timing has to be spot on or it wont run right, if you put em in completely wrong you could wreck ur engine.
Click to expand...

well thanks for clearing that up...i think ill let you install yours first then lol :)
only jokin mate.

u said u and "zeph" will be fitting them...has he done it before then?
how will u know which way to put them in?
thanks
 
yep i think he does, and so do i a little bit but not enough to try it myself lol...

your best bet is to wait for craig to come back i rekon or someone else who knows what they're onna bout becuase im not v. clear! sorry
 
rlees85 said:
someone else who knows what they're onna bout becuase im not v. clear! sorry
Click to expand...

nah mate, u did tell me what i wanted know so "Thanks". well good luck with fitting the cams, hope everything goes alright!!!

i suppose you know what POWER you had before when you put ur footdown (only for a little bit of time, dont want to break speed limits lol), but what i was getting to is that see if you notice any more power?

if you could let me know how you got on that will be sweet.

ill see what craig has to say (or anyone else)

thanks "rlees85"
napster
 
haahaa thats cool!! cheers

i know this might go off topic (possibly not) but regarding how much power you had before, when i had " 15" alloys on the car" the top speed i could get up this hill was "62mph". when i put steelies back on (13" things lol) i could get "67mph" not alot of increase i know, but just saying if you've got anywhere (out the way of traffic) to test power before hand that was all!

napster
 
10 bhp is rpoughly what I would say that you would get as i got 74 bhp on rr with just the cams and a Janspeed manifold, you really notice the difference after 4000 rpm as it will pull to the redline instead of being pretty gutless.
Timing, basically put them in exactly the same position as the ones that you had taken out were in, it isn't rocket science, but when you think how many deg. each tooth on them is then you will see how you can make your engine run really badly.
Nm is a measure of the torque, the bearing bolts need to be 10Nm tight, so if yours can drop down to at least 8Nm then you will be sure that they are done up correctly.
 
Craig said:
10 bhp is rpoughly what I would say that you would get as i got 74 bhp on rr with just the cams and a Janspeed manifold, you really notice the difference after 4000 rpm as it will pull to the redline instead of being pretty gutless.
Timing, basically put them in exactly the same position as the ones that you had taken out were in, it isn't rocket science, but when you think how many deg. each tooth on them is then you will see how you can make your engine run really badly.
Nm is a measure of the torque, the bearing bolts need to be 10Nm tight, so if yours can drop down to at least 8Nm then you will be sure that they are done up correctly.
Click to expand...

cheers for that craig, very much appreciated!!
ill wait and see how "rlees85" gets on and go from there? hopefully a guide or pics could be shown steps for people like me to follow lol?
is it "£50+pstage" or "postage" seperate? (is that same price postage to Cornwall?)
thanks
napster
 
Postage will be about a tenner so kinda wanted that on top, posting to Cornwall is not a problem :)
 
ok the cams are intsalled, will write more comments tomorrow as im knackered right now and probably anything i write will not make sense.

got an urgent question for somebody else who has done this conversion however (craig?)

i have now got a wirring sound (sounds like power streering pump but isnt) between 1 and 2k rpm... did you get this aswell??

cheers :)
 
No I didn't, where does it come from, maybe check that you are not leaking any oil from between the head and the cam cover?
 
doesnt appear to be any leaks, just checked the power streering levels (just to be sure) and that seems ok...

it was pushing it abit with clearances, would it make that kinda noise if it was having a hard time turning the camshafts? (altho i wudda fort that wud jus make a knocking/ticking sound)...

other then that tho, it runs well, seems noticeably quicker! like you said especially high-end!


EDIT: should add it does not make this noise at 'warm-idle' (less then 1,000 rpm)
 
8nM on the bearings. clearnaces, our feeler blade wudnt bend so measuring was a pain in the backside. in the end we turned the cams around to make sure they didnt get stuck as we couldnt measure clearances properly, and they seemed to turn fine, slight bit of effort needed when it was opening the valves, i guess that'd b normal, but before starting up we knew for SURE they wudnt break on nething!


either way wudnt it run like a bag of crap if it was having trouble turning over the cam tho?

cheers m8 :)

EDIT: if it turns out that the car could run nicely with too little clearance, and can cause a weird whirring noise rather then a knocking noise, ill sort the clearances out properly when its a tiny bit warmer out.. lol
 
So you turned the cams around by hand then?
Its taking a bit a bit of a gamble to risk an engine forthe sake of another set of feeler blades.
Having clearances too tight will wear the cams down quick, but doubt it could bet terminal, maybe the whine is unrelated, can you pinpoint where it comes from?
 
yes by hand, making sure they would not strike anything.

its ran fine for over 100 miles now, and like i say if i cannot work out what it is ill be checking shims shortly.

im going to have a go at pinpointing the whine soon aswell, i just need to try n find something to help me pinpoint it lol

cheers
 
It's probably nothing, maybe just the tensioner need a bit of bedding in again or someting, or one of your drive belts.
 
thanks mate, i just took my oil filler cap off whilst on idle and i coud not hear any extra noise, made a small oil fountain tho :) and got hot oil in my eye :(

ill see how it goes...

Thread Disclaimer: Do not fit cams the way described above & if you decide to its at your own risk :p
 
i think i have a leak from my cam cover after inspection, and oil squirting up my windscreen a tiny bit when hitting 6krpm.. (on inspection it looks like it shot out the back of the cam cover onto the black bit under the windscreen n splashed up the screen....

nice!

either way im going to re-sit the cover tomorrow, hope this will help the dodgy noise/drinking fuel problem too :)

edit: would like to add to anyone who is intrested, there is a big noticeable gain! It feels to pull a lot nicer & quicker and really kicks in around 4,500 rpm! (altho you can feel the difference low down too!)
 
Yeah, a guide would be great once the little problems are smoothed out. I think all of the 1.0 guys would be interested in this. Nice one rlees for taking the initiative and giving it a try anyway. Glad you've seen some improvements.

I've got no mechanical knowledge whatsoever, but it would be interesting to see exactly what you've done.
 
rlees85 said:
i think i have a leak from my cam cover after inspection, and oil squirting up my windscreen a tiny bit when hitting 6krpm.. (on inspection it looks like it shot out the back of the cam cover onto the black bit under the windscreen n splashed up the screen....

nice!

either way im going to re-sit the cover tomorrow, hope this will help the dodgy noise/drinking fuel problem too :)

edit: would like to add to anyone who is intrested, there is a big noticeable gain! It feels to pull a lot nicer & quicker and really kicks in around 4,500 rpm! (altho you can feel the difference low down too!)
Click to expand...

Bit of liquid gasket should sort that out nicely, unless the rubber is actually broke the whole way through.

Nice to see some-one actually do this, I've been saying for 2 years now nearly how good this is :)

All the guide you need is in the haynes, admittedly colour pictures would be a help though, but it is a surprisingly simple task.
 

Similar threads

Craig
Janspeed manifold for sale
Replies
27
Views
1K
richarda
richarda
Craig
My 1.3 cams
Replies
0
Views
520
Craig
Craig
Maccy
1.3 cams
Replies
8
Views
2K
Lugseile
Lugseile
Craig
Lots of cool stuff for sale
Replies
32
Views
3K
Ben
B
Craig
Bootlid with super s spoiler aj4 red 96 k11 swap
Replies
8
Views
792
NeX
NeX
Back
Top