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Umm.... Paid $990 But I did some work on the trans etc....

Didn't seem to be any movement of the frame around the A pillar. Drivers door gap was still ok. Drove dead straight at all speeds. But the radiator support panel and the inner guard are definately stuffed

The insuance company wrote off my micra undamaged pic here https://micra.org.uk/cmf/message/33477 It is at Auction at pickles.com.au in Perth this Wednesday. RHF is in bad shape, but it still drives dead straight. (I hit a Kangaroo). CVT had slight issues. But if someone wanted it for the wheels...

Was doing 80km/h but braked HARD before impact. Gaurd has pushed into door as well. Getting quote and then its up to the insurace company. Used to look like this https://micra.org.uk/cmf/message/33477 Tis not a nice feeling hitting a large roo in a lowered micra!

Possibly the end of my mirca, after hitting a large grey kangaroo. Shame....

Woo Hoo I was right :-)

Looks like overboost or severe pre ignition to me, Was it turboed?

Have my other car in today, but no problems to check it here, I will send you the address

I work in Briggs st, you are probably in walking distance :-)

What area in Perth are you?

To Do the job properly you need to calculate your current compression ratio - and then work out the compression ratio you want. Then calculate the volume of the different spacer plates to work it out. Anyone with expert experience in building performance engines should be able to help. IMHO...

I am looking for offers on a Powder clutch (torque converter) out of a CVT micra. The unit stall tests ok and is still in the car which can be driven if you are in the Perth area.

I got mine off ebay for $995.00 And I figure the wheels and tyres are worth that lol

Replace the fuel filter

The injectors get a battery supply and are switched to ground by the ecu. It is virtually impossible for the ecu to cause a problem with the injector. If the ecu shorts out, it can only switch the injector on, worst case would be on continously. Should have a wiring diagram faxed to me shortly.

If the car is running ok except in damp conditions, your multimeter test will probably show the leads as ok. The problem with old leads is also insulation breakdown. As the high tension system is the most affected by moisture, its a safe bet that new cap and leads willl fix the problem. And no...

there are cheap led bargraph kits for measuring these. But anything that will show 0 to 1 volt should work. However an oscilloscope is best. yes injectors get hot and dry on gas setups which lead to deposits on them, cleaner can help. Closed loop basically happens at operating temp with no load...

Oxygen sensors are designed to be very sensitive in a very narrow band (14.7 TO 1 air/fuel ratio) When in closed loop the sensor gives a signal (rich or lean) to the ecu which then alters the mixture to correct it. Because of the time taken (the changes need time to be compressed and burnt etc)...

Injectors are always a problems when running gas, and are most likely to be the problem, if tank additive helps then it most likely is the problem. Most mechanics tell you to replace the oxygen sensor at 100k but my advice is to wait till it fails as I have seen sensors go 200k If it responds...

On light acceleration the readings will be anywhere depending on actual mixture. On cruise the system will be in closed loop and you should have a predictable cycle. Closed loop is always precise. Closed loop is only ever at zero load.