Micra 100k service

Good Evening all,

Great website, I have been reading through some posts and found a lot of answers but can't find out about a "100k service" (or rather work out what to search for).

I've had my little 1999 Micra for 5years and during this time its not really had any problems. I have serviced it to a bare minimum: Oil Change (inc. Filter), Spark plugs.

It recently ticked over to 108k miles and I am keen to keep this car going as long as possible without investing too much money... What you recommend is worth doing to maintain this great little car?

Thanks in advance!

P.s. Managed to find a few little clues on why my clock blacklight stopped working (although it started working again recently for a few weeks!!).

P.p.s I was wondering about replacing the cam belt but it appears it doesn't have one after searching!
 
100k whats wanted!

Hi

You have kept on top of the most important items, but if you planning to keep the car for a while you have found yourself in the same position as me. Here's what I have done and prices are for Ebay or small car part shop purchases not Halfrauds

Change the anti-freeze, we apppear to heading for another severe winter so give it a rich mix. It does degrade over time and can lead to head gasket problems so well worth doing £7 approx and will take 10 minutes

Change the brake fluid. Its hyroscopic it also absorbs moisture which can lead to poor brakes under stress. It also prevents corrosion of pistons which are allways a pain to sort out. If you have ever seen the muck in old brake fluid its shocking when you realise that your life depends on it. Spray the bleed nipples with Plus Gas so they dont shear, its far far better than WD40 which is at best reasonable at all its supposed uses£7 approx and will take 40mins.

Rotor arm and distributor cap. Look for any appreciable wear and replace. If its just corrosion on the cap, gently scrape off and use again. Micra's have a great ignition system so it is not critical. £20 if repalcing both and will take 20 mins.

I have ground my plugs with a Dremmel to give a "side spark", the clearence is sort of 50% more than standard and gives better pick-up. After 9k miles (30K in total) I do at times get a slight misfire on start-up on damp days so the ignition system must be at it's limit given the same at least on the now old RA and cap.

Check the ancillary drive belts. Keep them tight, but not too tight and replace if they are starting to crack or the ribs are breaking up. £12 to replace and about 90 mins if replacing: You jack the car up, remove the offside front wheel and arch liner to get to them. Not difficult, but a bit of a dirty job.

Petrol filter. These are service items at 36K I think, but could easily last for the life of the car. Easily accessible behind the air box hose and cost £7 or £11 if filling it with injector cleaner which seems to make mine a little perkier

Pollen filter. If you have one under the glove box, take it out and wash it not replace. Your heater will be far more efficient. £0!!!!! 30 mins first time, 10 thereafter

Put some silicone grease into your headlight sockets and bend slightly so they are tight. These do corrode so well worth doing £3. I will take 10 minutes

Gearbox oil worth changing as they are stressed and do give up the ghost £15 for oil and £5 for the molyslip which made mine quieter. It will take you an hour or so as its awkward but not difficult.

Fit an N15 1.4-1.6 Almera air box and filter. Its bigger so needs less attention if not more power initially. It will give more power over time as it gets dirty and pay for itself with the petrol saved. £20 all in and takes accros 60 mins

When next changing the engine oil, get some synthetic 5W40 for a little more MPG, power and less wear if we get sever winters. Dont use 20W50, It gets too thick to give good protection during very cold start ups.

For the body drill a small hole towards the rear of the sills beneath the carpet and spray some Waxoil into them. All seem to go there eventually so it will help if not prevent rust £6 approx for a small can. Its free if you use old sump oil and can be used to spray into chassis legs which will also give problems at times.

Polish it now and again, treat and touch up any rust then drive on at minimal cost whilst watching others waste a fortune on cars that are scrap in so little time!
 
Wow, I feel rather stupid....

Firstly thanks for your reply! Secondly I have somehow managed to post this under K12 rather than K11 (which mine clearly is!).

Please can some kind administrator move this thread (or tell me how?)

Again, thanks for your reply, was this advice based on the K11 or a K12 car?!

Thanks
 
K11

Hi

My information was for a K11, its what I have done to both my 94 1.0 litre and 98 1.3 litre. Its based on info found on here and years working on bikes and cars. Most on here are far younger than me so perhaps dont quite realise just what bargains K10's and K11s are. There are very few cars made to the same standards, just to illustrate the point, look at any mid 90's C class Mercs - Rust buckets and riddled with problems. Nissan had real problems in the late 90's / early 2000's. Too much expensive quality and a staid image, the frogs got thier flippers on them as a result! Fashion sells new cars, quality gives second hand cars value which is what you get with Micra's.
 
Great advices by Knobby!
Totaly agree with him and R reg! "Micra owners, prefering quality to hype"
 
I like just going against the grain, turned out I picked a great car to do that and don't see myself changing anytime soon! :)

Was a good read btw on your reply Knobbly! Thanks!

Pepper
 
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