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6-6.5l/100km sounds about right, its what we get with our 2005 CC . That's average but then we probably have less town driving. 13 does sound high but without knowing more about the style of driving to get that figure it's impossible to tell.

If you have no joy with him, get yourself a dremel clone (my last one was ~£30 ) use the circular cutting disks to cut slots in the heads of the tamper proof bolts and then use a flat blade screwdriver to remove them. Just use normal bolts when replacing. Swapping the steering lock might not...

So just to round out my story, although I'd still like to know how Waggy got on, I bought a fairly cheap (not the cheapest but close) replacement key on Ebay, swapped out the transmitter part with the non functioning OEM key. Bought an Xtool A30M in the hope that it would tell me something...

Do you only have the one key? We have two but one was dead as a remote when we got the car so they are prone to failure. I've ordered a cheap one from ebay in the hope that replacing the transmitter will get it working. I've been told both the transmitter and the inert chip need to be coded to...

You get a result on this?

Not all possible options, if man built it, man can repair it. Sometimes it's just not an easy route.

How odd, its hard imagine how such symptoms could be brought about by changing the battery, so perhaps in this case it is purely coincidental.

There's certainly more than one way to do it, it just comes down to what you have available, I assume you've also tried graphite powder in the lock? Not a great believer in coincidence particularly when it comes to working on mechanical things. Can you lock and unlock the car?

Thinking about it again, maybe it's not the solenoid after all. Had you been able to turn the lock and then still not been able to turn the wheel then maybe but since you don't get that far... when I took mine apart it became apparent I wasn't the first to want to do so. It should be held on...

I'm not at home at the moment but when I am we can work out a way for me to send you a copy if you like

I meant the official workshop manual, Haynes are rubbish and usually not worth bothering with.

Ours is a 2006 but I'd hazard a guess they'd be able to help no matter what the year if it really is a mechanical issue. If i remember correctly, I believe there's a solenoid that locks the steering lock until a registered key is detected. Sounds to me like that might have failed on yours...

:LOL: Done similar things myself in the past when pushed. Like your style. Why not get hold of a second hand unit and repair that if necessary?

Googling it P1171 - System Too lean. Look for manifold and intake leaks

You might want to check https://micra.org.uk/threads/k12-p1171-please-advise-thank-you-in-advance.72208/

Thought as much, your choice but I'd go second hand. You just need to find a decent breakers. I'd be surprised if there were after market options but you could try the internet and the motor factors. It's been awhile but the last K11 winder mechanism I worked on the problem was the glass...

If man built it man can fix it, but in this case it's probably going to be easier to just get a replacement mechanism from a breakers. Electric or manual window?

Sounds to me like you've got wear on a gear in the mechanism that's allowing it to jump.

Just to update in case it's of any use to someone. Took the lock to Wessex Locksmiths in Weymouth. No affiliation to them so I assume it's OK to name them. They stripped it down and repaired it and once back on the car both blade keys can be used to start the car so some progress at least...

You may not have changed fuel supplier but that doesn't necessarily mean the fuel hasn't changed. Refiners produce winter fuel that's known to reduce mpg but does reduce gelling. You can also try running some diesel fuel treatment through it. I understand that, unlike petrol, diesel doesn't...