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And i'm pretty sure if it were an injector prob and whas gushing fuel the lamda sensor would had caught something and most likely would had shown some kind of fault-error..

Before changing the whole car since it was a spark issue why didn't you try chaging a spark plug??Most likely its the plug thats gone bad...

Meaning for a whole set of 4..although i'm sure it won't feel the same if you compare them to the yellow koni's..these are more street use-sport feeling than the more firm and track oriented yellow ones..your choice..

Any aftermarket dealer would be able to bring them...cant remeber the name of the shop..your looking at 200-250 the most(euro)..

It has done 30000 miles on the same pads what did you expect?99% brake pads..maybe even have a look if the car has more than 60000 miles most likely the discs will also need to be replaced..

If you don't include the cat anything you do will give 0 power gains..all the power from exhaust mods comes from headers and somewhat from the cat..The only point fiddling with the rest of the exhaust is clearly to have a better exhaust note...widder pipes are a must if you have something big...

Κωστα thats what im running koni street with vogtland springs..not to hard of a ride and corners well..

Sorry my bad then guyz!

Foubd on ebay maf sensor for 20-30quid...check it out

You could change just the maf sensor no need for whole T/B.

Mass air flow meter...

You could raise compression by skimming the head,porting is also a must if your getting the head out and go for 1.3 cams.They are a straight fit to a 1l and is worth doing..this could make at least 10hp from stock...mine made 86.5hp with a 9.2nm...but i also have a full custom exhaust and header...

Look everything is possible..it's how much you want to be involved and made get your hands dirty...i believe you could go for an other kind of profile where you could ensure not much fuss to time the engine and no compression loss...(usually big duration tends to lower a bit of static...

Really high profile cams will mess up with you timing(meaning too much duration and lift you will need adsustable cam pulleys)so proven that 260 duration and 10lift is something you can go for without having to mess with timing marks,retarting ect.. although 260d 10l means that the car will...

Then it short circuits some where...

Just make sure that its not an injector prob and move on one by one...you said you've checked the ecu right?If thats also ok it must be the loom...if the loom is also ok and you have good ignition you could check for fuel pressure..if your pump is running low..like really low..it could lean it...

Well i know that injectors vary in ohms and what resistance or current they use...are you sure that the injectors are proper ohms for your built...or maybe that 4th one os not the same with the others...?**** happens!

Well if the injectors are checked and are running fine and not squirting,ecu is ok then there isn't much left...meaning its not a spark issue and runs lumpy..get the loom professionaly checked...my advise...

Its best to you a proper spray contact for plugs ect...wd40 is a penetrating oil..sure it cleans but makes a mess with grease which could result to a short circuit..electric's can be a beach! :P

Well...what are the regulations and is it a 1litre 1.3?Anyway...a good start is breathing mods like a 4-2-1 manifold a free flow filter or some kind of free flow kit that suits you..you could also go for higher compression by skimming the head i believe porting is not allowed in leages like...