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Just to close this one down. New Starter Motor fitted today and worked once then had intermittent start fault similar to before although not exactly the same. Found that on my frequent disconnections of battery I had loosened the main -ve terminal clamp to the main earth cable so that a spark...

Yep - he caught it on a good day. It does work occasionally , then just can't cope and stops.

Update. Starter motor cleaned up as best I can, running well outside of engine. Installed this morning as well as a general clean and shine of all connections I could find including earths, batteries and terminals to the starter. First start - fine Second start - fine Took for a drive...

Yep -that's the first thing I'll try tmrw morning. Thanks.

No progress today:( Took starter motor to an Auto Electrician who load tested it and said it was ok, a bit noisy but working. I don't feel like forking out for a new one now, not if it is not likely to fix it. Mulling over next step.

Sorry getawaycar, I missed your post as I didn't refresh the page. All good stuff for me to check tmrw before I plump for the motor. I'll keep you posted. Thanks all for your continued help(Y)

Thanks Frank, all help gratefully received. Would the under voltage be caused by a fault in the starter motor solenoid? I've measured at the solenoid and you get a healthy 12.5 v and also nice clean ,uninterrupted 12v from the ignition line. I can only think of changing the starter motor to...

Constant clicking. Like a little machine gun.

Frank, Thanks for the reply. Is this likely to cause the clicking I hear from the starter motor? I'd have thought that the switch was either working or not and it doesn't seem to matter if I am in Park or Neutral.

Ok thanks. I just bench tested the starter motor via the solenoid connections and an earth and it all works fine.fwn So now I just checked the wiring and I get 12.6V at the battery. 12.2V at the starter solenoid when I turn the ignition key so this would seem enough. Now I'm puzzled what...

Ok so I found the other bolt, as you say it's nestled in under al the pipes on the top of the gearbox next to the engine casing. It's the rear most of the two that are there. I have no managed to remove the starter motor. I have a question about how to test it now please. It has two...

Ah - so are the other bolts put in from the gearbox end then? I found one from under the car, the lowest one, which went through the lower starter motor flange and then into the gearbox. If they are from the other side, that'd explain why I could not see anything from looking under the car...

Hi - I think the battery tray out option would only help with the manual transmission as on the auto it is not located anywhere near the battery. The Y-Shaped bracket under the inlet manifold has been removed to help get a socket onto the electrical connections but still stuck on how to get...

Hello, I am having real fun trying to get the Starter Motor out of my K11 Automatic. grr Those of you who are familiar will know that the starter motor is located very unhelpfully underneath the inlet manifold and is only accessible from under the car. To make a difficult job downright...

:blush:Yes well I was thinking of my car which doesn't have a temp gauge, just a warning light for when it gets too hot! Her Micra has a gauge and it was coming up but taking a while longer than I thought it should. Also, I flushed the matrix out as suggested and there is good flow. All back...

Hi Frank. Should I disconnect the two pipes in the engine compartment before the front firewall break and insert the hose there? Is this to check the flow and ensure the matrix/valves are not blocked? As for the gauge, it doesn't have one fitted on my model so I can only guess without...

Hi MSC members, My wifes beloved Micra, 1996 1.0, 36k miles, has developed it's first fault in 5 years (now that's japanese reliability for you!) The problem is the heater. When the engine is warmed up I get only cool air coming from the vents (all locations). I have checked the...