Recent content by busterdan

Just a bit of an update, it looks like my bodging may have worked as the car has been dry since.... but we are due lots of rain over the next few days so that will be the real test.

Thanks for the reply, must admit I haven't really checked the external seams thoroughly, but the right side around the rubber gromit that feeds electrics into the hatch was completely dry. Agree though the next option may be a bead of silicon to seal off the lights....

Been out to the car today to try and work out where the leak is coming from, I have found where the leak is present in the car but it's still unclear where the entry point is. I do think the the bolts that holds the light cluster in place are the culprit. The leak does happen on both left and...

Car is still leaking, I thought it was the rear light cluster but this evening (30 minutes ago)... I pulled the covers off to get a better look. There is definitely wetness around the large rubber grommet that in my case has just two wires running from the car and into the void behind the rear...

Thanks for your message but the car doesn't have a sunroof... I was only able to check a few days later and it seemed dry...very strange, just have to keep an eye on it.

I did see a couple of messages referring to the door drains being blocked, leaks from the rear lamps and also failure of the boot rubber seal, even seam issues but I've not had a chance to properly look yet... However my daughter notice this yesterday.... that's pretty extreme dampness...

Ah OK.... I wasn't aware of that... useful to know (y)

The Steel bolts I took out a week or so ago (to take the photo above) was definitely a tapered bolt but I can't remember the exact length, I'll check the thickness of the TSW alloy, compared to the steel and just add the difference (if any). I've seen quite a few wheel bolts of quite short...

Much appreciated John.... I think (need to check) that the steel wheel bolts have 28mm threads which looking at your image above and taking just the threads would be the same I think.

Sorry folks another quick question.... will the original steel bolts for the steel wheels be OK, I was thinking more thread length as I'm assuming the mounting thickness of the steel is much less than that of the alloy? Apparently the bolts are M12 x 1.5, but I haven't had a chance to check...

I think the steering is currently fine, the relatively small turning circle is great - so your comments are reassuring thanks. If I was able to get similar result as you have on your Saab rims I'd be well happy.

Wow, they look really nice.... do you have a before picture.... I'm in Kent so Herts is a bit of a trek, I have messaged a few local places but only had a response from one. On the rings, I think the bore hole is 72mm so these would do the job but I have sent the seller a message anyway...

John, thanks for the link that's really helpful - I do a bit more research. Been quoted £60 per rim for complete acid removal of the paint and spray up.... but that feel on the high side to me, I could probably buy new alloys for that. I think I will give them a jet wash at the weekend as I...

So I fitted one of the wheels last night to see how it fitted.... and it did fit but..... The bore size on the wheels is much larger that the current steels and the hub, so it's really pain to get the bolts in the holes although it is possible and they do tighten (although they may be a bit on...

Hi all I've picked up some old TSW alloys today, they need a good refurb having been sprayed black but they have barely any kerb damage and once refurbed I think they will look great. I brought them without probably doing as much research as I should have done but based on this...