track micra :D

Tom 1.0 said:
why are you going for the 1.4?

just stick with the CG13, then put a proper mani, cat thru and decent back box, cams and decent induction?

will give you 85+ bhp which would be more than enough for your 1st track car IMO

then work on a decent chassis set up ala frank style, then go for some widish wheels.

bucket seat and decent roll cage.

you dont need to spend a fortune on it for a good setup.

tuned CG13 and a decent chassis will be more than enough and cheaper....
Click to expand...

ive a 1.0 engine in the car (standard) and a 1.4 on the ground wil go for bike carbs, proper induction jomo made mani,straight through to a 2.5 inch tip get an ecu and properly cage and weld the car and use 2 subaru seats to start with (the ga16 is the same mount as the ga14if not correct me) so i can build a ga16 when running the ga14 and get its peak power and possibel go sr20 when i have alot more experience
 
Eire said:
Only lad i know of in westmeath with an N1 is damien, idno if you know him but bought a few bits off him there a few weeks back and he showed me round his (on axle stands lol) well if you wana try make the plates yourself theres a daigram of the brackets and dimensions here:

http://sr20nation.com/ga16forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1305&start=40

Hope this helps mate :) if you are makin up your own cage may have you fab me one if the moneys right ;)
Click to expand...

it is damien that owned it :p
 
ha small world mate!! cant wait to see the progress on this mate, should be interesting to see how it turns out in the end. have a full set of GTi/VZR brakes organized for the weekend hopefully, just need some 14" wheels to throw on before i fit them :)
 
ah dont mind cleaning lad if its goin to be a track slag, take a grinder to it and cut anything in your way off ha same for that bloody sound proofing, just grind the life out of it ha... yeah if all goes to plan the weekend ill at least get the fronts on and start to think about the rears
 
ah i want it down to complete bare metal :p and 2 coats of paint under it and inside after its caged and that,,then the fun of building it bakc up :grinning: best of luck with the brakes any way (Y)
 
small update , got the plasma cutter out and took a door off the k11 :p was 24 kg got it down to 14 (Y)

Photo0402.jpg
 
how heavy is the glass? it wil be replaced with plexi (Y) but im curious :p and 1 strut is my idea too :suspect: , plasma cutter is the bosses :wasntme: il have a few good pics up asap and a view of the work shop (Y)
 
frank said:
not sure, i cut all the way around and it went POP as i was cutting the last bit of sealer lol
and i just used a sheet of flat perspex :grinning:
Click to expand...

once its lighter (Y)

glass is heavy :laugh:

only glass that will be left is the windscreen (its a rule :down: )

I ment to say perspex ha
 
heres a few pics of the door being made lighter :p ,,and an insight into the jomo engineering workshop the cars are parked behind me in a position called parking jomo style (Y) :laugh:
and the plasma cutter :D luv it ha
033.jpg

034.jpg

035.jpg

luv this pic :p
038.jpg
 
karlj said:
two questions... how are you going to be locking the door? and have you thought about polycarbonate windows?
Click to expand...

one dont need to lock the doors its never gonig to be near the road :p the car will be kept in jomos yard (very safe place (Y)) and i will be using lexan for the windows
 
I used string to open the doors from the inside instead of the standard gear. Its lighter too! Also the weight loss with lexan windows is good so i recommend it
 
Eire said:
ha nice, take it for a spin yet with all that extra weight out yet?
Click to expand...

nope :p I would like to but,thats illegal :eek: ha maybe some time, i have alot of weight yet to remove and its begging for suspension as the standard shocks are completly worn away :laugh: and its on 12" rims and tyres like a wheelbarrow :wasntme:
 
haha sure what people dont know...... :p i can only imagine what your planning on cutting off next ha would of been good to see the difference in 0-60 times before and after
 
Eire said:
haha sure what people dont know...... :p i can only imagine what your planning on cutting off next ha would of been good to see the difference in 0-60 times before and after
Click to expand...

inside skin behind the rear door cards drill holes where i cal :p the underseal is roughly 10 kg (unsure) bonnet wil get the grinder soon and all wiring gone and few other things :p
 
###### me mate, things going to be as light as a feather...... and most of it will be put back on with the roll cage, brakes and GA block and gearbox lol
 
Eire said:
###### me mate, things going to be as light as a feather...... and most of it will be put back on with the roll cage, brakes and GA block and gearbox lol
Click to expand...

well jomo's cage is honestly #### all weight ,put the battery in the rear and lose as much nose weight as possible (Y)
 
First of all, let me introduce myself. I am Grevs boss, and have been building and running race cars for quite some time. Our results inc

Formula Honda (Jedi) championship 97, 99, 2nd 01 (UK)
South of England National Super Rods 95, 96
Involved LeMans (Audi R8, 3rd and 5th) pre winning days) (engine only)
Speedvision Championship US, 2nd, and 3 yrs in a row 1st in Championship.
Engine supply into BTCC.
Last 3 were with my old employer

On return to Ireland, we took many podiums in, what was a Time Attack run, Pre championship
Irish Time Attack 2008 1st and 3rd in Pro Class, 2nd and 3rd in over 2 litre, and win 1600 in Club Class
4th and 5th in Pro, 2nd and 3rd in club class, 2009
ITCC, 4th in championship


Frank, Whiteline offer top quality components, which we have used to great effect, an ARB with a 2mm increase in dia, is hardly extra weight. Dropping a car 60mm and not modifying the roll centre's is a big mistake. The centre of gravity is lowered, but it mitagates away from the roll centre, which makes the car want to roll more, and needing the spring to control roll. Harder spring rates reduce mechanical grip.

John

frank said:
whiteline... pah... all that extra weight :p 60mm drop cambered front and rear, £50 all in, mine,s on rails atm :grinning:
(and CG powaah ftmfw :grinning:)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=17156&stc=1&d=1285106172
Click to expand...
 
Anything that is not needed will be removed, inc some bodywork. weight is the enemy.

Don't know what camber Frank is running, but camber should be set after collecting tyre temp data.

John


Eire said:
hmmm if you want a good track car all those bits need to go mate, if the micras AC is anything like the almeras the brackets weigh a ton and change to manual windows or plexi and do away with them altogether!

Frank i read most of your blog, and understand how you got the camber like that but what springs are you using now? is it stock suzuki alto springs all round with stock dampers?
Click to expand...
 
Hello Tom. Grevs is doing this project to learn the game, with a lot of help and advice from myself. It's a 1.0 Litre anyway. Best way to start is to jump on at the deep end.

John


Tom 1.0 said:
why are you going for the 1.4?

just stick with the CG13, then put a proper mani, cat thru and decent back box, cams and decent induction?

will give you 85+ bhp which would be more than enough for your 1st track car IMO

then work on a decent chassis set up ala frank style, then go for some widish wheels.

bucket seat and decent roll cage.

you dont need to spend a fortune on it for a good setup.

tuned CG13 and a decent chassis will be more than enough and cheaper....
Click to expand...
 
johnny99 said:
Don't know what camber Frank is running, but camber should be set after collecting tyre temp data.

John
Click to expand...

hi john :grinning: your place sounds very impressive
here,s my rear camber, and the front now has a similar amount (i had to return it back to zero for the drag day, but its now back on)
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=17643&stc=1&d=1287567897
the rear camber seems to have had far more effect than the front (i have lost the loose rearend now :()
and re the whitline a/r/b.s i have no a/r/b,s at all on the blue car (for weight reasons) but with the (low compression damper) matiz legs and stronger honda springs is out-handles the wifes k11 by a margin (hers is a little higher, same tyres and has a/r/b,s)
 

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You seem to be trying to control roll with springs, which is the job of the ARB. If you run ARB's, you can use softer springs, which in turn increses grip.

John
 
johnny99 said:
You seem to be trying to control roll with springs, which is the job of the ARB. If you run ARB's, you can use softer springs, which in turn increses grip.

John
Click to expand...

i,m more concerned with inside wheel lift/wheelspin when exit-ing corners john, and front a/r/b,s compromise this imo (and i cant afford an lsd lol) :grinning:
 
It's doing that because you have it lowered too much, Look for a roll centre adjustment kit, Whiteline might supply them, Anyway, back on topic, Grevs track car

John
 
Ooh nice one (Y)

Are they a direct fit to the CG? Or are they for another engine and your gonna adapt it to fit?
 
were from somewhere in the UK :p

they will be a make fit :grinning:

engine is a GA mate :blues:

the rest of the build is slow because of the lovely constant rain :down:

engine was in to make mounts ,left and right is fitting jus need weather to finish it fwn
 
the cold out :laugh: some seams cleaned and waiting on some work to be done for my inlet mani..engine bay is welded up heres a pic after its etch primed

Photo0441.jpg
 
One question about the front bumper : the spots are factory or handmade (drill + spots fitted) ?
 

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