1.0L Piston Measurement
- Thread starter Soixantaine
- Start date
OP
OP
Drawing
Ah, got it now. Sorry to ask that question again, Craig, but didn't quite get the drawing before. If it is only 19mm, from the "notch above the piston pin" to the piston top, then there's only about 1.3mm differance between the two. All else being the same, it's certainly do-able if the pistons are pocketed for the valves.
There's a shop down the road from me in Leics that will pocket the pistons, among other things, for £60. They specialise in the older Minis, etc. but will take on most anything in the way of machining, I'm told. I'm going to take my scrapyard block down there next month to have dunked, skimmed and honed. They have an ad on page 131 of the current issue of "Practical Performance Car." Their Website is www.mspd-engines.com.
S
Ah, got it now. Sorry to ask that question again, Craig, but didn't quite get the drawing before. If it is only 19mm, from the "notch above the piston pin" to the piston top, then there's only about 1.3mm differance between the two. All else being the same, it's certainly do-able if the pistons are pocketed for the valves.
There's a shop down the road from me in Leics that will pocket the pistons, among other things, for £60. They specialise in the older Minis, etc. but will take on most anything in the way of machining, I'm told. I'm going to take my scrapyard block down there next month to have dunked, skimmed and honed. They have an ad on page 131 of the current issue of "Practical Performance Car." Their Website is www.mspd-engines.com.
S
That's ok, it is not exacty clear from my diagram due to space constraints.
The pistons may not need pocketing, but if it is £60 for the set, then that is not bad at all - some playing needs to be done with different rods to see what a be achieved and do some static comp. ratio calculations - when are you lieky lto do this?
The pistons may not need pocketing, but if it is £60 for the set, then that is not bad at all - some playing needs to be done with different rods to see what a be achieved and do some static comp. ratio calculations - when are you lieky lto do this?
OP
OP
This rebuild is gathering momentum at a pace not originally intended. It was meant to be a fall/winter project but you know how once the fever takes hold it's difficult to stop it. Next step after (or while) my block is getting cleaned up is to get my hands on a cheap 1.0L block so I can rob it of its pistons. I need one with the cylinder head also as I've decided to try my hand at a little porting and polishing and I want a spare to practice on.
I don't see any need to use anything other than the stock 1.3 rods as the 1.0L flat tops would probably give me the desired raise in CR without the problem of valve interference, with pockets as a safety measure. What I'm going to do soon is put the crank back in with one piston and a disc of plasticine on top. Then put the head back on with the keepers out of one set of valves and press them into the plasticine just to see where they make contact.
I'm on a budget here and need to spread this rebuild out over a few months.
It's also a sort of learn as you go thing but that's half the fun of it.
Would really like to get this piston issue sorted., however.
Incidentally, I've been into a few websites that might interest you (and others) but being something of a Luddite when it comes to computers, etc., I'm not entirely sure about posting them as links so all you have to do is click on them to bring them up. I know it goes something like but how do you get the website into the attachment bit without having to type the whole thing out (some are quite long)? Or is that the only way?
S
I don't see any need to use anything other than the stock 1.3 rods as the 1.0L flat tops would probably give me the desired raise in CR without the problem of valve interference, with pockets as a safety measure. What I'm going to do soon is put the crank back in with one piston and a disc of plasticine on top. Then put the head back on with the keepers out of one set of valves and press them into the plasticine just to see where they make contact.
I'm on a budget here and need to spread this rebuild out over a few months.
It's also a sort of learn as you go thing but that's half the fun of it.
Would really like to get this piston issue sorted., however.
Incidentally, I've been into a few websites that might interest you (and others) but being something of a Luddite when it comes to computers, etc., I'm not entirely sure about posting them as links so all you have to do is click on them to bring them up. I know it goes something like but how do you get the website into the attachment bit without having to type the whole thing out (some are quite long)? Or is that the only way?
S
if you right click the web address in the title box and select copy then when you write a post right click again in the page and select paste, it will put the link in the reply where you want it, is that what you meant ?
OP
OP
Magic!
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx
Thanks, rather do that than type it all out.
Generous offer, Swiper, I'm in Nottingham and will do a Multi-Map to Tupton.
S
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.aspx
Thanks, rather do that than type it all out.
Generous offer, Swiper, I'm in Nottingham and will do a Multi-Map to Tupton.
S
then the web address then will get your links done.
Swiper, any chance I ould have th crank pulley off that 1L?
Cheers
Swiper, any chance I ould have th crank pulley off that 1L?
Cheers
OP
OP
nottingham is only about 30mins away. shouldn't be too bad for you.
sorry, it's a bare engine, no crank pully or flywheel
also when the chain is on, the valves will be closed at tdc, and start to open as the piston is moving down. giving greater clearance
OP
OP
Yes, Swiper , checked with Her Indoors and got the okay, but can't make it until next week sometime, if that's okay. Best during the morning for me but let me know when and I'll try to work around it. Will you be able to help me put it in the boot?
Assume this engine has the pistons still in it and the ones you got rid of were from another block?
Also, what's with the 1.0L pully? Is lighter?
S
Assume this engine has the pistons still in it and the ones you got rid of were from another block?
Also, what's with the 1.0L pully? Is lighter?
S
OP
OP
So, how much lighter? Couldn't be more than a few ounces. But, with the 1.0L Facelift flywheel I can see where it might make a difference.
Yes, happy to do it with the gasket and the 1.0L pistons because I like this kind of thing and, I'll need plenty of practice getting the cam timing right.
Craig, are building up something similar?
S
Yes, happy to do it with the gasket and the 1.0L pistons because I like this kind of thing and, I'll need plenty of practice getting the cam timing right.
Craig, are building up something similar?
S
the cg10 crank pully is 0.8kg lighter than the cg13 one. if you're thinking about the cg10 fly aswell, then it needs to be fron a '98-'00 micra as the others are different, this is about 2kg lighter than the cg13 one.
next week is fine, but if you need a hand, which is fine, then i'm not back from work it'll around 5:30pm some nights.
OP
OP
Definitely need a hand, doubt I could get it into the boot on my own. Almost ruined me just getting one out. Would weekend of the 29th/30th be better, or do you prefer weekday? Also, if this is too much of a hassle okay to retract offer.
S
S
didn't see this bit
, yes it's a complete engine minus ancilleries, the cg10 pistons i through out was from another engine.no hassle at all, gives me an excuse to sort the shed out.
weekends are fine, anytime is ok there really. for the next two weeks i'm on days, so in after 5;30pm, then for two weeks after that i'm on nights, so can do between dinner time ish to about 7;00pm. whatever's best for you really. i'll pm you my postcode and house number
OP
OP
Okay, great, understand anytime on weekends and after 5:30PM weekdays.
I'll post or pm a definate date.
S
I'll post or pm a definate date.
S
