sound system finished.

ok finally got me shelf done and it sounds so goooooooooood.

upgraded door speakers: Alpine cant remember wattage
6x9's: two sony Xplod i think there 360w
Sub: sony Xplod 1200w
Amp: blacksmith 800.

my boot started off ith nothing in.
first thing i done was get two old 6x9's that we has lying about made a little box up for them a screwed them into the back of the seats.
Was Pic:
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f329/grantl88/Sound System/?action=view&current=oldsystem.jpg

Then this:
http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f329/grantl88/Sound System/?action=view&current=subandamp.jpg

Here's it finished:

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f329/grantl88/Sound System/?action=view&current=DSCF0508.jpg

http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f329/grantl88/Sound System/?action=view&current=DSCF0507.jpg

the sound is amazing.
 
if your after sound quality i would stay far away from sony.... especialy the x-chav stuff....oops i mean x-plod.

best stuff by far is Alpine, Vibe, JBL, Infinity, Rockford Fosgate, etc etc

sound quality means stepping away from the norm... sony has a large part of the market cos they look "good" (matter of oppinion) but to sound great you need to move away from apearance and actualy listen to the speakers and read the specs closely.... and......best of all...........................ask an expert..... ala ME!

good install thogh....cant take that away from you.. nice one.
 
antony_aiken said:
if your after sound quality i would stay far away from sony.... especialy the x-chav stuff....oops i mean x-plod.

best stuff by far is Alpine, Vibe, JBL, Infinity, Rockford Fosgate, etc etc

sound quality means stepping away from the norm... sony has a large part of the market cos they look "good" (matter of oppinion) but to sound great you need to move away from apearance and actualy listen to the speakers and read the specs closely.... and......best of all...........................ask an expert..... ala ME!

good install thogh....cant take that away from you.. nice one.

sorry to #### on ur parade but Pete s the resident expert when it comes to ICE
 
Gotta sound better than stock, but i have to agree - sony should be avoided!

antony_aiken, you missed off Phoenix Gold!!
 
antony_aiken said:
best stuff by far is Alpine, Vibe, JBL, Infinity, Rockford Fosgate, etc etc
.

Alpine - good range of HU's, decent range of speakers. Amp and Sub range are pretty poor.

Vibe - you have to be joking right?

JBL - over rated, very expensive for the product!

Infinity - Infinity Perfects are there flagship speaker, other then that there range is pretty poor.

Rockford - Some very good subs, old school Rockford is very good, some of the newer range is not up to there usual standard.

There are also a lot of other very good companies that aren't as well known as the above, but are infact built better, sound better and don't cost half as much.

Kev
 
Big_ben said:
sorry to #### on ur parade but Pete s the resident expert when it comes to ICE

By no means an expert but I've been here longer :blush:

Alpine - Mmmmm F1 range :suspect:

Vibe - Meh

JBL - Decent range of cheap amps tbh, good for the price

Infinity - 'Ok', nothing special

RF - As Kev said really

Now budget brands, look at Mac Audio, JBL, Magnat, Blaupunkt, Kenwood, FLI Audio. Then there are hundreds of others, Alpine to Pioneer, Tru Tech (yummy) to RE (yummy!!!), Steg (my wallet hurts) to Arc Audio (yum), DLS to JL (yay)..........the list is endless.

But for the components you've used, I'm sure it sounds just fine, well done! I look forward to hearing it at JAE :)
 
please dont even go there.... i am an audio expert, as in i build my own systems and run the ripspeed audio dept at my local halfords. i have been building installs for the best part af 7 years.....

if your looking at quality....alpine is by far the best for components, (unless you go stupid like Boston acustics) look at their Type X range for starters.... have you heard an install made from sony, vibe, jbl, infinity, fusion (very under rated.... their Jonah lomu amps and subs are second to none!) and many others?

its all about oppinion and sound quality, but again.....stay away from sony.... they made some great TV's, they made a great games consol....but please dont even try to compare them in audio... eeeeughko_O o_O o_O
 
well it does sound good so, i thought that sony would have been the best to have being so well known and stuff,, or is that just a common mistake?
 
antony_aiken said:
run the ripspeed audio dept at my local halfords.
Teaching the people that come into your section a thing or two about audio I hope?!

antony_aiken said:
if your looking at quality....alpine is by far the best for components, (unless you go stupid like Boston acustics) look at their Type X range for starters.... have you heard an install made from sony, vibe, jbl, infinity, fusion (very under rated.... their Jonah lomu amps and subs are second to none!) and many others?
Alpine is not the 'best' by a long shot, but for their price, the Type-S and Type-R range are pretty decent. Boston Acoustics can be cheap or expensive, depends which models you go for, same with anything really. I love my DLS components, but they were £££ and they sound how I wanted them to so they were my choice and worth it!

Ever heard RE or Rainbow? Absolutely awesome, but again, rather expensive for the better models. Fusion are quite underated, yes, but their last demo car wasnt nice at all....

antony_aiken said:
its all about oppinion and sound quality, but again.....stay away from sony.... they made some great TV's, they made a great games consol....but please dont even try to compare them in audio... eeeeughk
Sony now isnt too good, but Sony a few years back, h*ll yes! Give me their old school headunits, amps, etc any day of the week. Unfortunately its now made for the masses (more £££), not just for the enthusiasts market.

Edit: Grant, its a common mistake, but if your happy with it, thats all that matters.
 
hell yeah dont get me rong, if it sounds good, stick with it, all im saying is that for that little red sub you could have had 2 audiobahn subs, (ok not much better in quality but alot better in looks) or even a descent kicker l7...

yeah i agree that rainbow are also quite good, but so are genasis audio...but again are very expensive...:laugh: if only i had the money....

i have a set of infinity Kappa comp 6x9's mated to a mono amp each runing a single channel for each 6x9.....they are in a custom mdf install and have their own ported space.....they are utterly insane as far as sound levels are concerned but....then....i do run them from a nakamichi cd700....HAHA.

my subs are running from a set of alpine v12 amps, one running a 10" vibe black air 2+ 2006, and the other running an audiobahn SW12SE... they sound allright....

front components are some crappy magnat ones but again theyre amped to run trebble only, so i can crank the system up full whack and not an ounce of distortion...


ah well..... thats me...
 
well in my next car i wont have sony lol. i mean yer im not going to dis it as it sound good and i like it like with my boot space that i have.
 
antony_aiken said:
hell yeah dont get me rong, if it sounds good, stick with it, all im saying is that for that little red sub you could have had 2 audiobahn subs, (ok not much better in quality but alot better in looks) or even a descent kicker l7...

yeah i agree that rainbow are also quite good, but so are genasis audio...but again are very expensive...:laugh: if only i had the money....

i have a set of infinity Kappa comp 6x9's mated to a mono amp each runing a single channel for each 6x9.....they are in a custom mdf install and have their own ported space.....they are utterly insane as far as sound levels are concerned but....then....i do run them from a nakamichi cd700....HAHA.

my subs are running from a set of alpine v12 amps, one running a 10" vibe black air 2+ 2006, and the other running an audiobahn SW12SE... they sound allright....

front components are some crappy magnat ones but again theyre amped to run trebble only, so i can crank the system up full whack and not an ounce of distortion...


ah well..... thats me...

L7's are poo poo, the RE SE/SX is better for the price.

Also, you shouldnt mix subwoofers, both size and brand, etc. That'll cause cancellation issues, phase issues plus many other problems. Surely you'd know that?!

And just treble up front? Youch, how come they are not running any sort of midrange/midbass?! If you have enough power and install them correctly, you wont get distortion....!
 
anyone who runs 6x9's knows bollox all about car audio imo.

properly positioned components and tweeters running off the right amp with a sub in a tuned box will blow most people away.

im no expert but most of this thread reads like a dislexic's autobiography.
 
hi sorry to but in on ur convo but i thought i could take advantage of the expertise of some sound experts if thats wot u dont mind being called.
i would be in real debt if someone could answer my questions.
i am currently in the process of buying Pioneer DEH-80MP Head Unit CD Player just on the grounds it has 60w x 4 *not that i know wot that means at all.
for 6x9 im lookin at AUDIOBAHN AS69Q which have a 400 watt ... and have detachable tweeters as well
1.to cut along story short im kinda fixated om buying the pioneer cd player ... unless someone can convince to buy something of better sound quality for the value of £180 ish.....(experts only please) (ie not wot u think sounds nice - without takin the p*ss
2.second i only wish to buy 6x9s and door side speakers (sorry dnt know technical terms) .. i want my experts to recommend me the best or something of very good sound quality becos you will know best sound frequencies , outputs etc with a limit of £200 .....(experts only please)
3. as you have worked out i dnt want to buy an amp or sub ..i was jus looking for clear/quality - not neccessarily very loud sound.... if you say this is impossible without sub or amp pleasee experts recommend me a sub and amp or an amp and may b not an sub, based ... i am looking for the best of technical advise and i would sincerely be grateful for it ... (which? doesnt allow free access to reviews ofaudio products of such natures) od and wen the experts have come to a consensus i will buy the products and and show tthe install on my Y reg micra..........thanx abunch in advance long live msc
 
Retepetsir said:
L7's are poo poo, the RE SE/SX is better for the price.

Also, you shouldnt mix subwoofers, both size and brand, etc. That'll cause cancellation issues, phase issues plus many other problems. Surely you'd know that?!

And just treble up front? Youch, how come they are not running any sort of midrange/midbass?! If you have enough power and install them correctly, you wont get distortion....!
agreed!

Also Running 6x9's in a system which consists of a sub is just not worth doing. 6x9's have there place in a subless system only, if your 6x9's are mounted on your parcel shelf they will only distort when the sub is running.

Why have a pair of speakers generating bass when that's the main job of any sub. You won't even hear them anyway as the sub will just cancel the 6x9's out.

All you need to do with front speakers is remove the bass from them, depending on which headunit you have this is a simple thing to do. The headunit Pete and I have is excellent for this.
 
RAJA said:
hi sorry to but in on ur convo but i thought i could take advantage of the expertise of some sound experts if thats wot u dont mind being called.
i would be in real debt if someone could answer my questions.
i am currently in the process of buying Pioneer DEH-80MP Head Unit CD Player just on the grounds it has 60w x 4 *not that i know wot that means at all.
for 6x9 im lookin at AUDIOBAHN AS69Q which have a 400 watt ... and have detachable tweeters as well
1.to cut along story short im kinda fixated om buying the pioneer cd player ... unless someone can convince to buy something of better sound quality for the value of £180 ish.....(experts only please) (ie not wot u think sounds nice - without takin the p*ss
2.second i only wish to buy 6x9s and door side speakers (sorry dnt know technical terms) .. i want my experts to recommend me the best or something of very good sound quality becos you will know best sound frequencies , outputs etc with a limit of £200 .....(experts only please)
3. as you have worked out i dnt want to buy an amp or sub ..i was jus looking for clear/quality - not neccessarily very loud sound.... if you say this is impossible without sub or amp pleasee experts recommend me a sub and amp or an amp and may b not an sub, based ... i am looking for the best of technical advise and i would sincerely be grateful for it ... (which? doesnt allow free access to reviews ofaudio products of such natures) od and wen the experts have come to a consensus i will buy the products and and show tthe install on my Y reg micra..........thanx abunch in advance long live msc

The Pioneer DEH-80MP is a very good choice of headunit and will suit your needs fine. When it states that 60w x 4 it's probably more closer to 30w rms x4, but that's the case with all headunits.

For front speakers depending on your budget I would recommend these but again there are also several other good speakers you could purchase. I'm sure Pete will able to recommend some also.

Personally I wouldn't go for AUDIOBAHN AS69Q, but that is my personal preference. For looks Audiobahn, yes look impressive in some respects, but you can do better for sound and for the price imo.

For 6x9's these sound superb and very good value for money, but again I'm sure people could recommend other aswell, you can't go wrong with the genesis though.

I would recommend getting a amp to power both your 6x9's and components and this would give you a well balanced system. Example of an amp that will give very good sound quality click here Being a 4 channel amp will enable you to power both sets of speakers.

Let us know your overall budget and we can help give you a few examples of systems that will suit you. You will also require a wiring kit as well.

Hope that helps a little.

thanks
Kev
 
KEVs thank you very much, just to help people help help me
1.My budget would be about £250-300 but thats only for amp, 6x9's and front speakers and the neccessary wiring kit.
2. i have a y reg micra s 2door and the front speakers must be covered by the micra grills(dont know if that will help)
3. i am strictly looking for sound not looks .
4. thnx to all that help but please read both of my posts cos i am quite specific about requests - kev thanx again
 
It might be worth starting up a new thread for this :)

Repost your info about what you need, your ideas, etc and I'll try and respond later on tonight.
 
try the new kenwood range for 2007.... they all have the newer version of the Wolfson DAC (24bit) and the supreme feature wich is an algorytm that replaces or sythesises the missing information after you have compressed an MP3 file.... sounds awesome, absolutely mind blowingly awsome... and i have a nakamichi... thats awesome..lol


firstly, yes my front speakers are running nothing but trebble.. my 6x9's are running mid-range and some trebble.. but are situated just behind the front seats, (in the rear foot wells) the two subs are running out of fase and are also tuned using a fusion 1x din graphic equiliser to produse bass at different levels depending on the music being played... the 12" plays low rumbling bass and the 10" plays hard hitting quick bass.... trust me i know what im doing!

as far as not using 6x9's.... yes, maybe a set of decent components would sound minisculely better than my 6x9's, but for a set of speakers that kick out mid range quality and that can put up with over 400W RMS each.... for £90 a pair brand new (hehe trade prices boys) then, 6x9's will do just fine...


agreed there are better subs out there than the L7.... i have however been in a car with a 2001 L7 solabaric 18".... it was being powered by a bank of 4 vibe Mono box's.....and it was unbelievable... i couldnt breath...lol

anyway..
thats me
 
antony thnx..... funnystory... i was actually initially looking for the best mp3 capable player cos after buying an mp3(pioneer) head unit i found d quality was crap.... i took it bak 2 d pioneer shop and said mate literaly ... y does this sound so crap.... he said cos i was playing an mp3 cd .. he was rite..(as youll know y)..the market didnt have any reasonably price specialist mp3 recovery sound head units (if u get wot i mean) so i chose 80mp cos its the only head unit with 60x4 capability..... funny part is i just lost an ebay auction someone outbid me jus b4 the end of the auction thus i cudnt outbid them... then i seen this thread and wallah you pointed me in the right mp3direction but i doubt i wait till the 2007 range i can see the only wolfson using : - KENWOOD KDC-X890
boring but i thought id let u know please post in my other thread for more advice its appreciated trust me
 
antony_aiken said:
please dont even go there.... i am an audio expert, as in i build my own systems and run the ripspeed audio dept at my local halfords. i have been building installs for the best part af 7 years.....

im sorry but i must have missed this wen i first read this thread.

LMFAO...your funny.ripspeed audio dept at halfords..hahahahaha.my nan was a cook for 40+ years but shes not jamie oliver
 
well said mate!

i wouldnt buy a bulb from ripspeed let alone a sound system!

only decent thing theyve done recently is sell me a nakamichi head unit for £180!!
 
k11stew said:
well said mate!

i wouldnt buy a bulb from ripspeed let alone a sound system!

only decent thing theyve done recently is sell me a nakamichi head unit for £180!!

i thought they only sold cheap tat. not done bad there mate
 
my mate runs the ripspeed audio department, yet didn't know what the 180degree phase shift switch did on a set of twin active subs =/

Also knew nothing about Wiring, cable gauges. It's not something to brag about really
 
some specialist are "so called" specialists, thats is, they are made the head of a department because of their ass licking capabilities... not on merit.... i on the other hand, had been building audio installs for over 7 years, for friends, colleagues etc, i also do custom leather upholtering of installs....

my last was i a mini cooper 05........false floor, alpine 1004R dvd screen, two 10" vibe BA11's infinity refference 6x9's in rear quarters, 2 audiobahn power caps....blah blah...

the point is everyone is different, its just that i am one of the few that do have the expertese.......... dont hate me cos you aint me (haha fwn )

oooh and if you lot want cheap parts.....say like 60% off, take a mate to halfords who may work ina a garage or goes to college to study motor vehicle stuff and get up to 60% off all parts and over 25% off all proffesional tools too.,..
 
to be honest for my sound system i would only really go for pioneer, alpine, JL audio, roqford fosgate and to a lesser extent clarion, lightning audio (same company as RF but cheaper) and pro plus but maybe thats because im biast.

ive heard sony, jbl, phoenix gold, vibe, lightning audio, audio bahn and loads more. but each individual component just didnt sound as good as the others i mentioned. but like everyone said it depends what range you go for and how much you spend.

oh and definatly agree that 6 x 9's have no place in any sound system let alone one with a sub. to me it will always be components at the front sub at the back.
 
wow this whole post it one big rant lol

very nice install mate, keep up the good work :)

i have no problem with sony :p

vibe is pretty good.

JBL is sooo cheap, i got 6X9s and an amp for £60 and its top :)
 
i 2 12" sony subs and a JBL and it sounds amazing, better than my mates infinity 1s!! the only reason i got them because i got it all for a good price
 
nice boot build there. Its a start anyway fella. I had to start off with some SPLX Subs.. Yeh that bad haha

Vibe are really good imho. Im using vibe SK-60 Components in doors and rear panels and Vibe Active CBR12" Sub and amp and sound quality is very very good.
 
When people say that it's got good sound quality, it's an arbirtrary comment, it's a good quality, only based on what they've heard before. It may be good quality compared to one, but the quality will be appauling compared to a pro install and set up for SQ
 
antony_aiken said:
some specialist are "so called" specialists, thats is, they are made the head of a department because of their ass licking capabilities... not on merit.... i on the other hand, had been building audio installs for over 7 years, for friends, colleagues etc, i also do custom leather upholtering of installs....

my last was i a mini cooper 05........false floor, alpine 1004R dvd screen, two 10" vibe BA11's infinity refference 6x9's in rear quarters, 2 audiobahn power caps....blah blah...

the point is everyone is different, its just that i am one of the few that do have the expertese.......... dont hate me cos you aint me (haha fwn )

oooh and if you lot want cheap parts.....say like 60% off, take a mate to halfords who may work ina a garage or goes to college to study motor vehicle stuff and get up to 60% off all parts and over 25% off all proffesional tools too.,..

If you do have expertise, you wouldnt be using Vibe, 6x9's and power caps (which do naff all for the system).
 
Antony Aitken, you know nothing my friend! Pete advised me on my last system and it sounded the dogs dangles, im a retard and i even know 6*9's dont go with subs, get your coat mate
 
Ben said:
Antony Aitken, you know nothing my friend! Pete advised me on my last system and it sounded the dogs dangles, im a retard and i even know 6*9's dont go with subs, get your coat mate
Incidentally, your 4ch is still going strong in the back of my car Ben :)
 
fwn hahaha, dont be stupid......

i know 6x9's are rubish, but for mid range, on a budget, and when they are so easy to get ahold of........then why not?..... and unless im mistaken most people dont have qlarity measuring systems in their cars to tell the difference between components and 6x9's, especialy when they are situated behind the seats,,,,

and dont be retarded, of course power caps do something you tool....... they stopped my battery from going flat for a start, and they alos prevented my lights from flashing when the bass kicked in......fwn

some people..... i dunno... i mean, i dont even wear a coat...:glance:
 
Just use a 2nd battery.

Power Capacitors are great the first time they are used, but when you drain one, not only does your battery and electrical system need to power the system, they also need to re charge the power capacitor inducing more drain on the electrics than not having them in the first place/
 
antony_aiken said:
and dont be retarded, of course power caps do something you tool....... they stopped my battery from going flat for a start, and they alos prevented my lights from flashing when the bass kicked in......fwn

WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG
WRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONGWRONG

Go to www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb and do a search for power caps.

Lesson 1

Ok “powertrip” how about we have a discussion in basic electrical theory? At the end of this thread you should be the one that can explain to the world that according to ohms law it is impossible for these things to do any good. That is of course if you can admit that they do obey ohms law. We will do this a little at a time so how about you humor me and stick to my questions. We will do them a couple at a time so everyone can follow along. Let’s do a little calculation. Suppose we have a resistor that is .017 ohms (seventeen milliohms). I think that is what you say the ESR of the giant caps is.

The ones I have seen have measured higher but I will give you the benefit of the doubt. According to ohms law how many volts are dropped across .017 ohms if 100 amps of current are flowing? How about if we up the current to 300 amps? Let’s establish the answers to these questions before we go any farther. If we can't agree on the answer to this there is no hope we will ever get to the truth.


Lesson 2

Thanks David you are exactly right. If anyone wants this explained please ask David to clarify it. If everyone is going to follow this and understand fully the final conclusion it is important that no one miss any steps. There will be about ten lessons. Since power trip has left the building we will continue with the rest of the class. ESR stands for equivalent series resistance. This means exactly what it sounds like. It means that if we have a source of voltage it will behave exactly as if it has a resistor of the same value in series with its output. An amplifier has ESR, a power supply has ESR, a battery has ESR, and yes, a cap has ESR. Components have ESR’s because we do not have perfect conductors to make things from.

And now for the homework. Last night we learned that if 100 amps flows through .017 ohms there will be a voltage drop of 1.7 volts. And if the amp flow increases to 300 amps the voltage drop will increase to 5.1 volts.

For the sake of theory only let’s say we have built the largest cap in the universe and it has billions and billions of Farads. Its plates are made of a newly discovered material we'll call unobtanium. This new material has no resistance therefore our super cap has an ESR of ZERO ohms. We then charge the capacitor to 14.2 volts. We then place a resistor with a value of .017 ohms in series with one of the terminals of this cap. The question is: If we place a load that draws 100 amps from this cap what will the resulting voltage be on the load side of the resistor? What will the voltage be on the cap side of the resistor? What about if we increase the load to 300 amps? What will the voltages be on each side of the resistor?


Lesson 3

Ok now that we have studied ESR and understand what it is and it’s effect on the working of a circuit we will move on to another subject. But don’t forget about ESR as it is one of the important final building blocks in our search for truth about caps and we will come back to it. Today we will review the important concepts about total energy storage in a device like a cap. This has been covered in earlier posts (and I will say quite correctly) but I am going to expand on it as well as reiterate it for those who did not get to read it. Besides, I think I can simplify it a little.

In electronics, we measure power in watts. Wattage tells us how much work a device can do. But a wattage rating does not tell us anything about how long we can sustain that work. When we add the element of time to our wattage, we use a value we call Joules. A joule is a watt second. This means that one Joule of energy can provide a watt for a second. Ten joules can provide a watt for ten seconds or ten watts for one second or five watts for two seconds one hundred watts for a tenth of a second, and so on.

The formula for determining the total joules stored in a capacitor is very simple. We take one half the capacitor’s value in farads and multiply it times the squared charge voltage. For example a one farad cap charged to 14 volts would be .5 X (14x14) = 98 or .5 X 196 = 98 Joules. A 20 farad cap charged to 14 volts would be 10 X (14x14) = 1960 Joules.
There is a very important concept to understand about energy storage. A capacitor actually stores electricity.

Batteries don’t. Batteries have the potential to produce electricity by means of a chemical reaction but caps actually store electrons on their plates in the form of an electrostatic charge. In our next two lessons we will learn why this is important to know.

But first, the homework. This is a “think about it question”. We have learned that a Joule is a watt second. A Yellow top battery is rated at 65 amp hours. This means it can provide 65 amps for an hour. The question is how many Joules does this represent? Since this is a thought question, it would really help if whoever answers would show us your math.


Lesson 4

In the actual real world the voltage of the battery would drop a little from its open circuit voltage of 12.8 volts with a 65 amp load. In the case of the yellow top its actual voltage at 65 amps is about 12.2v when fully charged. By the end of the hour it would be down to about 10v. If we use 11 as an average our answer would be........ 2,574,000. Now that's still a lot of joules! Now actually this is not enough to totally kill the battery but at this point there isn't much left in it. This brings us to a very important fact. The energy in a battery will be depleted almost completely by the time it is down to 10 volts.

Lesson 4 (continued)

By the time we have removed those 2.5 million joules from the battery it probably doesn't have more than a hundred thousand joules left. We can almost totally deplete the battery's energy and never drop below 10 volts. This is because the battery doesn't store electricity. It stores chemicals. A chemical reaction produces the electricity. Storing actual electrical charges is very inefficient.

Look at our poor capacitor. Even if we made one as big as a battery it would still only be good for perhaps fifty to one hundred thousand joules---less than that left in a nearly dead battery. But if that were not enough there's more bad news. This exercise will be tonight’s homework.

A capacitor is like a gas tank in a car. The pump can only remove gas down to the pickup point. Any gas below this point can never be removed by the pump. If we charge a 20 farad cap to 14 volts we know from previous lessons that it will contain 1,960 joules. If we use that cap in a system and load it till it drops to 10 volts along with our battery how many joules will we have removed from the cap? How many joules will remain in the cap that we can never benefit from if our system never drops below 10 volts?
 
Lesson 5

In our last lesson we learned that caps actually store charges on their plates. And of the 1960 joules stored in a 20 Farad cap, 1000 of them sit at a potential below 10 volts. This means there is no way they can ever be used by an operational audio system. Today we will look at another loss factor. It has to do with the loss factor due to the ESR of the cap.

We have already studied voltage drop due to ESR but now let’s view it from an energy/watts standpoint. Let’s clarify things. The power delivered to the stereo by the battery and alternator bypass the cap. They merely flow by its terminals. If the cap charge is lower than the battery/alternator potential current will flow INTO the cap until it reaches equilibrium with the Battery/Alternator. If the B/A potential is lower than the charge potential of the cap current will flow OUT of the cap to the battery and or the amp.

Always remember that voltage always flows from the highest potential to the lowest potential, just like water. Current does not however flow into the alternator even if it is lower than the battery and cap because it has diodes on its output that only let current flow FROM its output. Now whenever any current flows into or out of the cap it must pass thru the ESR of the cap. The resistance is really distributed throughout the cap but it behaves just like it was right on the output terminal as in a series circuit location in the circuit loop does not matter. Now suppose our 20 farad cap is charged to 14.2 volts and we place a load on its output. This load is the same one that we used in lesson 2 to cause 100 amps of current to flow from our unlimited capacity cap. Only now we have our smaller 20 farad cap.

Lesson 5 (continued)

We know that if 100 amps of current flows out of our cap, those 1.7 volts will drop across the ESR of .017 ohm. This will cause the output to drop to 12.5 volts just like it did with the unlimited cap.


This means that the load (100 ohms resistance) will be consuming 1250 watts from our cap. 12.5 volts x 100amps = 1250 watts. The total wattage output produced by the cap is 1420 watts. 14.2 volts x 100 amps = 1420 watts. Unfortunately 170 watts of power will be lost in heat in the ESR of the cap. This represents a loss of 13% of our total usable joules (960) at this point. Now tonight’s question is if we increase the current draw to 300 amps (300amps x 14.2volts = 4260 watts), how many watts will be dissipated in the ESR of the cap and what percentage of the total 4260 watts does it represent? Of our total usable 960 joules, what percentage will be left for the stereo?


Lesson 6

Ok before the next lesson let’s review lesson five. When I checked the posts no one had the correct answer of 56% but some were close. The important part is that everyone seems to understand the loss mechanism. From lesson five we see that the energy we can get out of a cap is inversely proportional to the rate that we try to take it out. This is because the ESR that is in series with the output stays constant regardless of the load. At very high power levels, this ESR can amount to a sizeable amount.

In an earlier lesson we learned that the ESR causes a voltage drop proportional to current flow. When voltage is dropped across a resistance heat is created. Lesson five taught us that with 100 amps (flowing from a cap with .017 ohm ESR) we lose 13% of our joules as heat when we try to remove them. If a cap has an ESR of .017 ohms, and 300 amps flows we will lose 56% of the stored energy when we try to remove it. In our giant cap example with 300 amps of current, we will lose this as 1530 watts of heat. This is the same loss mechanism that causes a battery or amp or power supply to get hot when they are delivering high power levels. Virtually all voltage sources have at least some ESR. At this point we should have a good understanding of how ESR affects a component. The next logical thing to cover is ESL.

ESL stands for equivalent series inductance. Just like the ESR it can be modeled as an inductor in series with the output of our capacitor. Now everyone in car audio knows what inductors do. They resist a change in current flow. Their most common use is in speaker crossovers. When used in series with a woofer they let the slowly changing low frequencies pass, but stop the fast changing high frequencies. The reason an inductor does this is because it behaves like a resistor that changes value with frequency. Unlike a capacitor that decreases in value with increasing frequency an inductor decreases in value with decreasing frequency.

Lesson 6 (continued)

Now I have been told that the ESL value of the giant cap is 0.2 mh. Somebody check my math but I think this would put the reactance of the cap near .063 ohms at 50 Hz. This means that if we wanted to refresh our amps at a rate of 50 Hz (seems reasonable if we were playing bass real loud) our ESL of .07 ohm would be in series with our .017 ohm ESR for a total value of .08 ohms.


Now we know from ohms law that if we try to get 100 amps through .08 ohms we will have a voltage drop of 8 volts and at 300 amps the drop would be about….well it’s pretty clear that we will be left with less than a fraction of a volt if we start out with only 14.2. Is everybody still with me? I know it’s not good news but I’m not making this stuff up.

Now for tonight’s lab lesson to prepare us for lesson 7. Tomorrow, I will post the results of the following test. If you want to check me, go to Radio Shack and buy the following: Bulb # 272-1127, Socket # 272-360, and a nine volt alkaline battery. For the battery a Radio Shack is ok but a Duracell is better. Make sure it is fresh!!!!!

Wire the socket and connect it to the nine volt battery and record how long the bulb stays lit. Be prepared to wait for a couple hours. Charge a giant cap to 14.2 volts and do the same with it. Be prepared to wait about an hour. Charge a 1 or 1.5 Farad cap to 14.2 volts and do the same. This will take only a few minutes. Record the times and we will discuss the importance of this in our next lesson.


Lesson 7

Ok in last lesson I left everyone with instructions to duplicate the results of the test I am going to post tonight. The purpose of this test was to put the capacity of even a giant cap in perspective. As I have pointed out in earlier lessons storing electrons in the form of a charge on a plate is not really very efficient. Some folks think we should stand in awe of a value like 2000 Joules. Well our test tonight puts some reality in this value. If we perform a test like described in the end of lesson 6 we come up with the following results.

1.5 Farad cap lights the bulb for about …………5 minutes and 28 seconds

a giant cap lights the bulb for about……………. 54 minutes

a nine volt alkaline does so about …………………. 2 hours and 14 minutes

did anybody get results similar to these…….are we in agreement on these numbers ?
 
Lesson 8

For this lesson I have done some actual measurements. Here are the test conditions: To measure voltage we used an Audio Precision with a DCX module. It is accurate to three decimal places. For sample time we chose 40 samples per second. For the non audio system test I used a KAL carbon pile load tester. It can do power tests on 12 volt charging systems up to 1200amps continuous. The audio system consisted of a couple of Rockford 1100 amps bridged into four ohm nominal speakers. The alternator was a stock Delco 80 amp CS type unit.

Lesson 5 (continued)

Its case temperature was monitored by a Raytek ST2L IR sensor. Engine speed was regulated with a Thexton #398 IACV tester. The music material was the SPL track # 30 from the IASCA competition disc. The battery was a Stinger spb-1000. All voltage measurements were done directly at the terminals of one of the amps.

Chart 1 Alternator/cap/battery test with 200 amp dummy load

For this test we monitored the voltage of the car with the stereo turned off. With the car running the voltage can be seen to be stable at about 13.7 volts. After 22 seconds (The horizontal scale is 100 seconds-10 sec per major division) we applied a 200 amp load. The voltage can be seen to drop to 11.6 on both traces. This test obviously exceeds the ability of the alternator to keep its regulation set point so its voltage falls. The drop can be seen to be nearly instant (steep curve) until about 12.5 volts where the battery starts to supply a significant amount of the power.

Ultimately the voltage drops to 11.6 and at 26 seconds we turn off the load. The voltage then starts to rise to the regulator set point as the battery is recharged (yellow curve) and as the battery and cap (green curve) are recharged. At a time of 50 seconds I turn the motor off so the alternator stops. The voltage then droops down to the float voltage of the battery—about 12.7. The only reason for the small difference at 50 seconds is because I couldn’t get the timing of the engine shut-off exactly the same every time. I did it several times and these two are within one second. That was as close as I could get it.

I am able to see no difference from these measurements. There are microscopic differences but I believe they are due to the alternator temperature. Alternator regulators are usually temperature sensitive. As they get hotter they tend to fold back. For this reason we let the unit cool off between each test and closely monitored the case temp throughout the tests. For this reason I believe that none of these measurements are meaningful to more than a couple tenths of a volt.


Chart 2 Music tests with an audio system

Note: Between each test the alternator was allowed to cool and the battery was charged until an automatic charger said it was topped off.


Purple curve

For our first test we played the system with the engine off and no cap. The result was the purple trace at the bottom. We played the system as loud as we could get it that seemed to produce no audible distortion. This was track 30 of the IASCA disc. It starts off with fairly low level sounds for the first 34 seconds. In order to insure the electrical system was stable we did not start the measurement until we were 20 seconds into the song. This means that our 0 starting point is: 20 on the CD counter. The battery was able to maintain its voltage just below 12.5 until the loud bass hits at 34 seconds (14 seconds into our chart) At this time it dropped to about 11.5 and had a few large variations due to the music. According to the computer calculations (third chart) the average voltage for this test was 11.7volts. This test was done as a baseline for the following tests.


Yellow curve—no cap

For this test the volume was left as it was for the baseline test. The engine was started. Notice that at low volume the alternator was able to maintain about 14 volts. When the loud music hit the voltage dropped to about 12.5 where it remained except for a few short moments where it actually climbed back to over 13.5 volts. The computer averaged calculations for the average voltage during the 100 seconds of this test was 12.973 volts.


Red curve—cap added

This test was identical to the previous test except the cap (15 farad type) was added 6 inches from the amp with 4 gauge wire—no relays or fuses. The red curve seems to overlay the yellow except that the actual peaks don’t rise as fast or as high during the brief quiet moments. I feel this would be due to the alternator having to recharge the cap. The voltage on loud passages hovered around 12.5 volts. The computer averaged calculations for this test show the average voltage to be 12.878 volts. I see no meaningful differences with or without the cap. I certainly don’t see the voltage sitting solid at 14 volts.

One note I might add is that this was a two thousand watt system driven right to clipping and the average voltage stayed above 12.8 with a stock 80 amp alternator. Under these conditions the battery would never discharge!


The green and blue curves were done just for kicks while we had the system set up. In both these tests we turned the volume up until the system was very distorted. This placed a severe load on the alternator and caused the voltage to dip as low as 12 volts. The curves seem to follow each other so closely that unless you have a good monitor it is doubtful you can tell there are two curves. The average voltage for these two curves was both 12.277 and 12.295 volts. If this volume were sustained for very long periods of time this battery would discharge.

Any questions? Please ask -- I will give everyone a chance to ask them before I sum this all up in lesson 9.


Lesson 9

Now that we have had time to study theory in each of the 8 lessons and the results of the actual tests on a real system it is finally time to bring this discussion to a close. Unfortunately, when this thread started I was unable to explain the concept, as it was obvious that many of the people posting responses just didn’t have a good grasp of the way things really work. Those of you who have taken the time to follow the lessons should know by now why I was so frustrated at the arguments that were so illogical. It is important to keep in mind that this is a technical forum, not a marketing forum. I do not care or want to know about companies or brand names.

Nothing I have said was ever meant to disparage a particular product or company and I would appreciate it if in the future we could always keep that in mind. We should be able to discuss the merits of radial vs. bias ply tires without caring if they are made by Michelin or Goodyear.

In car audio we have little choice of how we are going to power our systems. Presently we have only four things that are practical. Each of them has its own characteristics that incorporate good points and bad points.


Let’s review them

The battery--this device has the ability to provide a very large amount of current. But due to its nature the current is provided at a voltage that is less than optimum –at least for a high powered stereo. Since its float point is 12.8 volts if fully charged, it can provide current only at voltages that are proportionally lower than 12.8 Volts.
 
The alternator—this device is electronically regulated at a point that allows it to recharge the battery. The alternator is usually designed to output voltage in the 13.8 to 14.5 volt range. Because its output is actively regulated it attempts to maintain this voltage with varying load conditions up to the point where it’s output cannot keep up with the load at which time it’s output drops off very rapidly. While relatively tight regulation is the strong point of the alternator it’s weak point is that it simply is not practical to obtain one that can provide large amounts of current like a battery is capable of.

The capacitor. The advantages of a cap are that it can charge up to whatever the highest voltage source in the system is, (in a car this would be the alternator) and provide current at this elevated voltage. The down side of a cap is that it cannot store very much total energy and only a portion of this energy is available at a usable voltage potential. The fourth type of device is an electronic voltage regulator. These devices have not been part of this discussion so I will pass over them for now.


Now modern car audio amplifiers are capable of consuming enormous amounts of power. Even with efficiencies in the range of 60% to 90% an audio system is capable of drawing hundreds or thousands of amps from the cars electrical system. Typically, the audio system is larger than any other electrical device in the car including the engine starter. Fortunately for the car, the demands of an audio system are rarely continuous in nature. The very nature of music rarely demands more than a duty cycle of 10% to 20% from a power standpoint. This means that the audio system is demanding short term, but repetitive peaks of current from the electrical system.

The primary source of this power is the alternator. It should be considered primary for two reasons. The alternator is the only first generation source of power. It ultimately provides all the power for the system either directly or indirectly by restoring power to the battery or cap. It is also primary as it is the power source with the highest voltage potential. In an electrical system current always flows from the source of highest voltage to circuits of lower of lower potential.


All three devices can be used in a system to great advantage. But the dynamic conditions present in a music system determine the role each device plays and to what degree. To understand this lets consider a low current drain condition. In this scenario the alternator will be at or near its set point.

This voltage is designed to be high enough to charge the battery meaning it will be one or two volts above 12.8 volts. This means that the battery will actually be a continuous load on the alternator and provides no power to the system. The size of load it presents is determined by the state of charge of the battery. The higher its state of charge the smaller the load will be. A cap if present in a system in this state will present a load for a finite amount of time until its charge voltage reaches equilibrium with the alternator.

Unlike the battery, the cap will cease to be a load after it is charged except for a factor known as dissipation, which for all practical purposes can be ignored in this application unless it is excessive. Under these circumstances, as long as the alternator can maintain its set point, it will provide all the power for the music system and the rest of the cars accessories. The battery and cap may as well not even be in the car.

Now if we increase the current demands of the music system to an amount that taxes the alternator its output voltage will begin to drop. Even so the alternator will continue to be a source of current to the system –i.e., the car, music system, and battery. It is at this time that the cap will begin to discharge and begin to augment the alternator as a source of current. The degree to which it provides current to the system is dependent on the actual voltage at the alternators terminals. Only when the alternator begins to drop below the caps charge potential does current flow out of the cap.

This is a continuous process and the current provided by the cap tries to maintain the voltage at its charge potential. The degree to which it can do this is dependent on two things. The current provided by the cap is limited to the total capacity of the cap and any series reactance’s (resistive or inductive components) that are part of the cap. The instant the cap starts to output current its charge potential begins to drop.

Now just what can we expect the cap to provide? Suppose we happened to have a cap charged to 14 volts, with a total reactance (made up of either resistive or inductive components) of about .017 ohm. We could figure that at the first instant of discharge it could provide ten amps at 13.83 volts. Of course if we were playing the system at a level enough to load our alternator, ten amps is not likely to provide much relief. But perhaps 30 amps might help—at this modest level our cap could begin to provide current at a potential of 13.5 volts. (lesson 2).

Of course this voltage level would drop at an exponential rate commensurate with the discharge curve that is standard with caps. No doubt the cap could help out a hundred amp alternator with the addition of an extra 30 amps even though it might be for only a brief instant. But it is sort of interesting that at even this modest power level of 130 amps (100 amps alternator + 30 amps cap) the cap is unable to maintain the voltage at 14 volts.


Of course in this scenario we are sitting at 13.5 volts for a brief instant and our poor battery is unable to help at all as its potential is at a lowly 12.8 volts. In fact the battery is still a load on the system!

Now what if we get serious with our stereo and we really crank it up? Lets say we have something like a manufacturers demo van with lots of amplifiers that can draw hundreds of amps on musical peaks. Lets pick a nice round number like 500 (“Cade” said 490) amps. Lets say we have a 200 (“Cade” said 190) amp alternator. Typically such an alternator can maintain a voltage near its set point up to perhaps 80% of its rating-after which its voltage begins to drop as it provides large amounts of current. As I am not familiar with all the different alternators lets just assume these assumptions are close and our alternator is putting out 200 amps. Well our amplifiers in an instant are asking for 500 amps so what happens?

In any constant voltage system when the current capability is exceeded the voltage drops. So let’s say our alternator voltage starts dropping. What does our cap do? Since its charge potential is at 14 volts it starts to discharge and provide a source of current. Since the cap is now sharing the load with the alternator it is called on to provide what the alternator can’t—that would be 300 (see footnote) amps.

What happens to the terminal voltage of our cap when 300amps is flowing? Well for starters, the voltage tries to drop nearly 5 volts inside the cap before it can even get out. Not in a short time but instantly. There is no time constant in the formulas for ohms law. They are instantaneous calculations! But wait. The voltage doesn’t really drop to 9 volts because we have our battery sitting in reserve waiting at 12.8 volts.

Our cap lets our poor alternator down as the voltage plummets and when things hit 12.8 volts our battery jumps in and starts to take over. The battery with its enormous storehouse begins to provide vast amounts of current until things lighten up for our poor cap and alternator. Of course we could add another cap to halve our ESR loss to only 2.5 volts but that would still cause the cap terminal voltage to drop to 11.5 volts.

Let’s see how many caps of this spec we would have to add to keep the voltage at 13.5 for even a few milliseconds. We would need a cap bank with a total ESL of about .001 ohm. Gee it looks like it would take over thirty caps paralleled to maintain 13.5 volts at 300 amps for even a brief instant. And let’s hope we don’t need to do this for long, as the total power contained in thirty units is only about what is in a dozen 9v alkaline batteries! (lesson 7)

It should be clear that if the voltage doesn’t drop the caps don’t do anything. The voltage MUST drop for them to start discharging.

Now, is it possible to have a steady 14 V because we added caps? I don’t think so.
 
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