CMF_analogman
» CMF Member
Can anyone answer a couple of questions for me? I have a 1.3L automatic P reg. It suffered with missing a beat once or twice every few minutes. This would also happen when standing and idling, the engine would drop momentarily then recover immediately. After changing the plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm a web search indicated the Air Flow meter as prime cause. I replaced this to no avail. Also advised was to check corrosion on injector fuse. After a week of this the engine check light started flashing permanently and the engine starts, runs for exactly 5 seconds and cuts out. Repeatedly the same condition at every start up.
Checking the diagnostic connector mode 2 I get 14 long flashes followed by 1 short, then 14 long, 2 short and the cycle repeats. I finally put an oscilloscope on the injectors and can see the 12V at ignition dropping to zero with nice wide pulses. As the engine cuts (after 5 secs) the pulse width drops to a thin line. So the ECU is setting the injectors to close off fuel.
I have measured the fuel supply pressure at 2.5 bar, it is correct.
My questions are:
1) How does NATS inhibit engine, does it prevent the ECU from even starting the engine in the first place, or does it shut is off after a short time?
2) Does anyone recognise the above conditions and, if so, what was the cause.
3) Pretty much the last thing left is the ECU, but changing it presumably means reprogramming the keys NATS codes into it. Can this be done DIY?
Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Checking the diagnostic connector mode 2 I get 14 long flashes followed by 1 short, then 14 long, 2 short and the cycle repeats. I finally put an oscilloscope on the injectors and can see the 12V at ignition dropping to zero with nice wide pulses. As the engine cuts (after 5 secs) the pulse width drops to a thin line. So the ECU is setting the injectors to close off fuel.
I have measured the fuel supply pressure at 2.5 bar, it is correct.
My questions are:
1) How does NATS inhibit engine, does it prevent the ECU from even starting the engine in the first place, or does it shut is off after a short time?
2) Does anyone recognise the above conditions and, if so, what was the cause.
3) Pretty much the last thing left is the ECU, but changing it presumably means reprogramming the keys NATS codes into it. Can this be done DIY?
Any helpful suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks.
