Camber Bolts

[I've used the search but still can't find a definite answer to this]
Has anyone used Eibach camber bolts/or still using them, and are they any good/make much difference to the handling/road feel as i've heard mixed reviews? And are they safe/as strong as the standard hub bolts?
Also has anyone got any photos of the camber once they're fitted or even another method with similar amounts of camber, as i'm not sure what 1.75° would look like or even if it's noticeable?
 
Could always slot your strut holes.

I filed about 2mm

I didn't really want to do that after some horror stories i've heard, one of which happened to the March under a previous owner

I had them on my k10..... Pointless they're good for camber correction but not for gaining camber
Yeah i've read they only go to 1.75°, but was unsure how much that would actually be/difference it would make
 
I get 1.5 degrees without camber bolts... tbh you don't notice it and I was told anythibg more than 0.75 degrees for road use just starts eating tyres and doesb't handle THAT much better
 
I get 1.5 degrees without camber bolts... tbh you don't notice it and I was told anythibg more than 0.75 degrees for road use just starts eating tyres and doesb't handle THAT much better

Have you slotted the top strut hole on yours? That's what a few people say but it's actually the amount of toe change that comes with negative camber (unless you have it all re-aligned) that eats through tyres
 
Have you slotted the top strut hole on yours? That's what a few people say but it's actually the amount of toe change that comes with negative camber (unless you have it all re-aligned) that eats through tyres
I had toe and camber laser aligned, and this is from a guy who sets up all sorts of motorsport cars professionaly, from tarmac to gravel. No slotted top strut hole, I'm running polo front shocks though and was just clever about where I redrilled the bottom hole, although I can go from +0.1 to -1.5 degrees. The nissan say there should be between 0-1 degree camber, although thats not necessarily max you can get on stock shocks. What is it you're looking to get from nore camber? Stance or grip?
 
I had toe and camber laser aligned, and this is from a guy who sets up all sorts of motorsport cars professionaly, from tarmac to gravel. No slotted top strut hole, I'm running polo front shocks though and was just clever about where I redrilled the bottom hole, although I can go from +0.1 to -1.5 degrees. The nissan say there should be between 0-1 degree camber, although thats not necessarily max you can get on stock shocks. What is it you're looking to get from nore camber? Stance or grip?

That sounds quite good actually, I suppose a few mm difference in where the strut hole is drilled can make a significant difference to the amount of camber you can get. I'm looking to go more down the stance route of things tbh. My wheels are going to poke out a little and I want to lower it down quite a way, so I was thinking a bit of negative camber would help with turning/stop the tyres rubbing when cornering
 
Coilovers, proper micra ones though, not polo & corsa ones
Then wait and see what range you get on those, you might not even need more than that. Of course, if you have rubbing theres always the option of increasing the et by having backs of alloys machined a few mm, rather than having camber, running silly stretch or hammering panels
 
Then wait and see what range you get on those, you might not even need more than that. Of course, if you have rubbing theres always the option of increasing the et by having backs of alloys machined a few mm, rather than having camber, running silly stretch or hammering panels

They don't have camber adjustable top mounts though, or do you mean, just see how much camber they get naturally after they're fitted etc?
 
I won't really be able to set them to anything, but I suppose the lower you go the more natural camber you get anyway so i'll just have to see how it turns out
Why can't you set them to anything? just loosen bolts then push top of disk and pull bottom then tighten. You should get tracking done after suspension changes anyway, so get them to check camber at the same time :)
 
Why can't you set them to anything? just loosen bolts then push top of disk and pull bottom then tighten. You should get tracking done after suspension changes anyway, so get them to check camber at the same time :)

When you said set them to max I thought you meant adjusting them like adjustable top mounts or something, my mistake. I'll try that idea though, and see how it goes, thanks :)
 
When you said set them to max I thought you meant adjusting them like adjustable top mounts or something, my mistake. I'll try that idea though, and see how it goes, thanks :)
Ahh right, that's how camber is adjusted on stock shocks
 
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