Auto blocks stronger

[cisco]

Yeah blue monster had the top hollow one. I was thinking about that at 18psi boost with the foot down. But that thing was as tough as nails. haha.

 

[CMF_Yom]

Ok this got me interested.

here are some pictures I took earlier.

Heads: Jap and UK heads seem to be able to be identified (with the micras we got in australia at least) with numbers included in the castings.

Here's a picture of my Jap 1.3L auto head:

 

[CMF_Yom]

Ok so the time and date is all out of whack and pictures dont work. lol

 

[CMF_Yom]

Ok so the time and date is all out of whack and pictures dont work. lol

 

[CMF_Raceworx]

life coach i dont know where you got that the UK engines are closed deck in bettween me and a few freinds we have torn apart 10 maybe more CG engines non have ever been a closed deck. if there were a closed deck CG13 this would mean that it would need a different head a new cooling system basically a whole different engine.. all CG13 have a wet lined affair and the auto blocks though have the extra webbing.

i just posted it as i saw evades head gasget and saw if it had had the extra webbing it could have prevented it somewhat..

 

[CMF_Raceworx]

anyway poeple have been banging on about GC13 auto blocks being stronger than than non auto blocks so having got one of eachf or the enw build i striped them down and have conclusive proof of which is better if any...

manual CG13 :-

and now the auto block :-

as you can see there are aditional suports to the cylinder liner.. i was amazed when i took the gasget off andsaw it as i was goign to have the same thing done anyway but i got it for free lol so there is your proof auto blocks should be stronger than the manuals whilst its not a completly closed deck its better than notihng

 

[CMF_Yom]

Raceworxs, what is stamped on your blocks infront of #2 cylinder?

41B
#?

Also what are the engine numbers of those two blocks you have there Pics of the engine number stampings would be good too.

I'm thinking of compiling a "how to" on identifying the different blocks from the outside and I think the key to this lies within the engine numbers and the number cast into the block.

Might also find a way to distinguish between the UK and Jap made blocks too.

Thanksmate

 

[CMF_Raceworx]

why have all the posts gone mental?? anyway i dont know the numbers of the top of my head the easyest wway to tell is if it comes with an auto flywheel on it

 

[CMF_Yom]

No idea mate. I'd really appreciate if you could get those engine numbers though as people can and do change engines.

The stamped numbers and casting numbers are the only way to know.

 

[CMF_Sean]

Or you could just get a UK spec closed deck...

Jap spec is open deck designed, but it doesn't really matter anyway. Blue monster was and still is running a Jap hollow deck and its still running as far as we know. I would actually be more inclined to go for the hollow deck as I'd be more worried about cooling than cylinder warping (which coincidentally occurs more prevalently under extremely high temperature conditions)

The auto block seems as though its a good compromise of peace of mind and cooling, but I'm not too sure how many galleries there are in the cylinder gussets. If there's only one or two, you may as well use a closed deck then..

Sean

 

[CMF_Yom]

So what are those engines Raceworks? Apart from being a manual and an auto block, are they UK built CG13's or Jap Built CG13's.