wont start
- Thread starter retro1969
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porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
Your car is a gsx 1.2 auto right? Turn the ignition on so that the warning lights come on, and shift the gear lever from "N" (nutral) to "R" (reverse), then back to "N". From the drivers' seat you should be able to hear the starter selonoid click as it completes the starting circuit. The same should happen when shifting between "P" (park) and "R".
If the starter selonoid does not click then it may be a simple case of a corroded wire connector on the gearbox (they get covered in road grime/salt and water).
There's always a chance that it's just flooded, if so hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over, once it starts and the engine clears ease the pedal back, keeping it to a fast idle for a min. Should be fine after that.
If the starter selonoid does not click then it may be a simple case of a corroded wire connector on the gearbox (they get covered in road grime/salt and water).
There's always a chance that it's just flooded, if so hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it over, once it starts and the engine clears ease the pedal back, keeping it to a fast idle for a min. Should be fine after that.
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
Does it start yet? :suspect:
Hi guys thanks for your suggestions since i originally posted i got it going charged up the battery over night and it was ok even though it was turning over before i charged it so got it running thanks but today its doing the same thing checked votage on battery it was 12.64 volts so should start with that since ive been tinkering with it its gone down to 12.50 so i will put it on charge again and see if starts tomorrow. Perhaps its the amperage of the battery thats the problem can they develop amperage probs bats? yes its a 1.2 gsx auto k10.
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
It needs to be a 45Amp/hour minium or it won't have enough kick to start to motor. I run a 55Amp/hour with 430amp capacity battery on all my k10's, they work very well.
Hi thanks for reply PP7,
my batterys got written on it EN 380, is that the amperage? and A/hr 45, R/C 70. Is that ok or should I buy a beefier battery?
Also I noticed that my auto choke when i blip the throttle before starting it doesnt close the choke valve, it will close with my finger and theres a gap about 2mm i set the choke onto the 2nd cam whilst cold i read it somewhere on net but looking at the haynes manual it says set it to that setting while hot so i think ive set it back to front if you get my driftfwn I find that haynes manual not to clear, or im just not to clever:laugh: nevermind I will get it sorted EVENTUALLY. Thanks for your input PP7.
my batterys got written on it EN 380, is that the amperage? and A/hr 45, R/C 70. Is that ok or should I buy a beefier battery?
Also I noticed that my auto choke when i blip the throttle before starting it doesnt close the choke valve, it will close with my finger and theres a gap about 2mm i set the choke onto the 2nd cam whilst cold i read it somewhere on net but looking at the haynes manual it says set it to that setting while hot so i think ive set it back to front if you get my driftfwn I find that haynes manual not to clear, or im just not to clever:laugh: nevermind I will get it sorted EVENTUALLY. Thanks for your input PP7.
AAAAHH! Still wont start tried beefier battery new dizzy cap rotor arm plugs leads coil fuel filter air filter. It turns over but doesnt want to fire up theres spark at the plugs? fuel going in choke now works choke plates shuts im really stumped:down: according to my haynes manual at the back its got a diagram of a electronic ignition system with a condenser on it. Do electronic ignitions have condensers? There is a condenser looking thing bolted just underneath the coil is it that? Ive looked on the net for a condenser for a nissan micra gsx 1.2 k10 but it doesnt come up with one please guys any ideas or advice would be really appreciated thanks
andy88
Ex. Club Member
can you hear the starter selonoid like porkpie has said, if you have both spark and fuel then this is the only thing i could see stopping it, is the inhibitor switch
frank
Club Member
the inhibitor just stops the starter eh, you,ve already said its turning over and sparking eh fwn
are the plugs getting wet ? (can you smell fuel on them ?)
and i doubt if the electronic dizzy has a condenser personally (that choke might be for radio anti-static eh)
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
The battery sounds to be the right type, the 380 is the max capacity which is pretty weedy. My alarm along can drain that in a month lol. Why would you set the choke while hot? think about it, the choke only works when the engine is cold. So you would set it on a stone cold engine, then start it up and test it.
The choke needs to be set on the small dot that has been punched into the casting next to the centre alignment mark. If you actually removed the choke to do this then did you remember to hook the end of the coil spring back over the cam lever? When refitting the airbox did you remember to reconnect the little vaccum pipe to the bottom of it?
To cock the choke, the gas pedal has to be pressed all the way to the floor, a blip won't move the cam lever enough to allow the cam to spring back. Were you adjusting the choke because it already had starting problems or was it just taking too long for the revs to settle down?
The inhibitor switch prevents the engine from being started when the car is in gear, basically so you don't go shooting off and run an old lady down if you accedently leave it in "D". They rarely break, in fact i have never heard of a case where the selonoid itself has broken. Location; on top of the fuesbox on the right hand side. The fact that the engine turns over means that it's working anyway.
Before doing anything else, cock the choke and prime the carb as normal by pressing the gas pedal down to the floor twice. (if you weren't already doing this every time you started it from cold then that's why it won't start)
Then press and hold the gas pedal all the way down to the floor again, but this time keep it held there, crank the engine over for about 3secs at a time, keeping that pedal held to the floor, and not releasing it until the engine starts and begins to rev up.
If you have a flooding or a choke problem then this should clear out the carb and engine, and get it running.
One last possible cause i can think of is the anti-dieseling valve. It's an electronically operate valve that shuts off the fuel flow to the idle jet system within the carburettor when the ignition is switched off, to prevent "over-run".
It's a known fault that the single wire it has can be broken off by clumbsy hands or by severe corrosion. The only other way it could fail is if the car has been stood for a very long time and not not used/not started, in which case it can seize shut, perminately disabling the engine.
Stand on the drivers side of the car and take a look at the back of the carb, halfway up by a lever you will notice what looks like a bolt with a wire comming out, that is the anti-dieseling valve. Check that it's wire is not damaged, if it isn't then check that the electrical plugs attached to either side of the air box are connected and undamaged.
Oh and by the way ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODELS DO NOT HAVE CONDENSORS, what you are looking at is a suppressor, which is there to prevent "electrical noise" or interfearance from travelling through the lines, causing things like static noise on the radio etc... even k11's have these.
The choke needs to be set on the small dot that has been punched into the casting next to the centre alignment mark. If you actually removed the choke to do this then did you remember to hook the end of the coil spring back over the cam lever? When refitting the airbox did you remember to reconnect the little vaccum pipe to the bottom of it?
To cock the choke, the gas pedal has to be pressed all the way to the floor, a blip won't move the cam lever enough to allow the cam to spring back. Were you adjusting the choke because it already had starting problems or was it just taking too long for the revs to settle down?
The inhibitor switch prevents the engine from being started when the car is in gear, basically so you don't go shooting off and run an old lady down if you accedently leave it in "D". They rarely break, in fact i have never heard of a case where the selonoid itself has broken. Location; on top of the fuesbox on the right hand side. The fact that the engine turns over means that it's working anyway.
Before doing anything else, cock the choke and prime the carb as normal by pressing the gas pedal down to the floor twice. (if you weren't already doing this every time you started it from cold then that's why it won't start)
Then press and hold the gas pedal all the way down to the floor again, but this time keep it held there, crank the engine over for about 3secs at a time, keeping that pedal held to the floor, and not releasing it until the engine starts and begins to rev up.
If you have a flooding or a choke problem then this should clear out the carb and engine, and get it running.
One last possible cause i can think of is the anti-dieseling valve. It's an electronically operate valve that shuts off the fuel flow to the idle jet system within the carburettor when the ignition is switched off, to prevent "over-run".
It's a known fault that the single wire it has can be broken off by clumbsy hands or by severe corrosion. The only other way it could fail is if the car has been stood for a very long time and not not used/not started, in which case it can seize shut, perminately disabling the engine.
Stand on the drivers side of the car and take a look at the back of the carb, halfway up by a lever you will notice what looks like a bolt with a wire comming out, that is the anti-dieseling valve. Check that it's wire is not damaged, if it isn't then check that the electrical plugs attached to either side of the air box are connected and undamaged.
Oh and by the way ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODELS DO NOT HAVE CONDENSORS, what you are looking at is a suppressor, which is there to prevent "electrical noise" or interfearance from travelling through the lines, causing things like static noise on the radio etc... even k11's have these.
Hi pp7 thanks for the info I will look into the that. Ive since discovered that even though ive put a new coil on it its only showing 11.68 volts shouldnt it be 12 volts on start up? i check the feed wire going to the coil and thats showing 11.68 also could it be ignition switch or a short in the feed? Also do you know the setting for the throttle adjusting screw is it like screw all the way in and so many turns out? Thanks again for the info.(Y)
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
You have a crap battery, it should read 13.5v - 14v, anything below 12 is an undervolt, meaning there isn't enough kick to deliver power the every system that needs it.
Check the voltage from the battery termials, if it reads less than 12v then the battery is not holding charge properly and need to be replaced.
The throttle screw meaning the idle screw? It should be turned in just enough for the engine to idle at 850 - 900rpm, if you haven't adjusted this since these starting problems happened then it's unlikely that this is the cause. You can always screw it in a turn or two and then back it off one the engine is running, but you'll have to wait for the engine to warm up fully before you can set the idle just right.
Have you checked to see if you're getting a spark from the plugs? Plug a spare spark plug into one of the spark leads and let it rest on a good earth point, then crank the motor over. Alternatively you can plug a screwdriver into the lead and let it rest close to (but not touching) a good earth point. If you are getting a spark then the problem lies elsewhere, for example did you fit the plug leads into the dissy cap in right places/right order?
Check the voltage from the battery termials, if it reads less than 12v then the battery is not holding charge properly and need to be replaced.
The throttle screw meaning the idle screw? It should be turned in just enough for the engine to idle at 850 - 900rpm, if you haven't adjusted this since these starting problems happened then it's unlikely that this is the cause. You can always screw it in a turn or two and then back it off one the engine is running, but you'll have to wait for the engine to warm up fully before you can set the idle just right.
Have you checked to see if you're getting a spark from the plugs? Plug a spare spark plug into one of the spark leads and let it rest on a good earth point, then crank the motor over. Alternatively you can plug a screwdriver into the lead and let it rest close to (but not touching) a good earth point. If you are getting a spark then the problem lies elsewhere, for example did you fit the plug leads into the dissy cap in right places/right order?
I have a fully charged battery about 13.5 volts i mean the coil is showing 11.68 i thought it was supposed to be 12volt but i dont think.32v would make that much diffrence its not even trying to fire up even though the plugs are sparking and the leads are on the right way round checked with manual. I dont mean the idle screw i mean the throttle adjusting screw thats what the manual says its just to the left of the idle screw and set further back.
I must confess i did mess with it when i couldnt get the car to start thinking it was a choke adjustment screw after reading it on here somewhere, the thing is it doesnt tell you in the manual how to set it any ideas? There is fuel getting to the cylinders as i have the plugs out and turned it over and fuel shot out at force. Maybe thats the problem to much fuel i checked the timing when it was running and it seemed fine so it cant be that although its like the spark and fuel aren't meeting together because theres no life when i turn it over it turns over but no way is she firing up.
What do you reckon if i mark the distrubutor before i advance the timing just to see if that brings any life? But the timimng was fine when it was running:suspect: oh i forgot to mention no4 plug was sooty others were fine maybe the floats are stuck im thinking maybe carb strip im thinking GOD I WISH I WAS A MECHANIC
Hey but we live and learn. thankyou for listening to me rant and thankyou for taking the time to help PP7 I appreciate it When i get it going I'll let you know what it was so it can help some other poor carless ###### get on the road again.....Hey I can feel a Willy Nelson song coming on:laugh:
I must confess i did mess with it when i couldnt get the car to start thinking it was a choke adjustment screw after reading it on here somewhere, the thing is it doesnt tell you in the manual how to set it any ideas? There is fuel getting to the cylinders as i have the plugs out and turned it over and fuel shot out at force. Maybe thats the problem to much fuel i checked the timing when it was running and it seemed fine so it cant be that although its like the spark and fuel aren't meeting together because theres no life when i turn it over it turns over but no way is she firing up.
What do you reckon if i mark the distrubutor before i advance the timing just to see if that brings any life? But the timimng was fine when it was running:suspect: oh i forgot to mention no4 plug was sooty others were fine maybe the floats are stuck im thinking maybe carb strip im thinking GOD I WISH I WAS A MECHANIC
Hey but we live and learn. thankyou for listening to me rant and thankyou for taking the time to help PP7 I appreciate it When i get it going I'll let you know what it was so it can help some other poor carless ###### get on the road again.....Hey I can feel a Willy Nelson song coming on:laugh:
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
That other screw is to adjust the choke cam lever, it should be turned out (unscrewed) untill only a couple of threads are showing, otherwise the choke will be jammed into one position perminantly. No matter how many times you pump that throttle or how high you rev the motor, the choke won't move if that screw is tight. Plus it wears out the cam steps with excessive pressure.
What the screw does; there is a stepped cam inside the choke, when the choke spring warms up it moves back. The choke flap in the carb will not move back with it untill the throttle is pressed.
This is because the throttle is connected by a cam lever to a small rod that catches on each step of the choke cam. When the throttle is depressed, the rod is lifted free of the cam, and the vacuum in the carb sucks the choke flap open untill it meets the heated spring.
This is how the revs are slowly reduced down each step of the cam as the engine warms. If the cam is too tight i.e. the screw is turned in too far, then the little rod will not move free of the cam, thus jamming it in place.
The distributor already should have a line across it to line up with the little arrow point on the housing that it bolts to. That's just a reference line, it does not indicate the "perfect setting" for your car. As long as the dissy is not turned all the way anti-clockwise (retarded) then it should start fine.
Make sure all the vac lines are connected and not leaking, if you're starting it with the airbox off then make sure you plug the end of the vac line that plugs into it.
Have you removed the anti-tamper cap from the mixture screw and adjusted the mixture at all? If so then you may have turned it in too far and made the mixture way too rich. The mixture is made rich to start with by the choke, so if you enrichen it further then you'll just be flooding the engine. If the cap is still in place and the mixture has not been touched then it's unlikely that this will be the case. Just thought it was worth mentioning because i don't know exactly what you've done with your car, or what you've tinkered with under the bonnet.
What the screw does; there is a stepped cam inside the choke, when the choke spring warms up it moves back. The choke flap in the carb will not move back with it untill the throttle is pressed.
This is because the throttle is connected by a cam lever to a small rod that catches on each step of the choke cam. When the throttle is depressed, the rod is lifted free of the cam, and the vacuum in the carb sucks the choke flap open untill it meets the heated spring.
This is how the revs are slowly reduced down each step of the cam as the engine warms. If the cam is too tight i.e. the screw is turned in too far, then the little rod will not move free of the cam, thus jamming it in place.
The distributor already should have a line across it to line up with the little arrow point on the housing that it bolts to. That's just a reference line, it does not indicate the "perfect setting" for your car. As long as the dissy is not turned all the way anti-clockwise (retarded) then it should start fine.
Make sure all the vac lines are connected and not leaking, if you're starting it with the airbox off then make sure you plug the end of the vac line that plugs into it.
Have you removed the anti-tamper cap from the mixture screw and adjusted the mixture at all? If so then you may have turned it in too far and made the mixture way too rich. The mixture is made rich to start with by the choke, so if you enrichen it further then you'll just be flooding the engine. If the cap is still in place and the mixture has not been touched then it's unlikely that this will be the case. Just thought it was worth mentioning because i don't know exactly what you've done with your car, or what you've tinkered with under the bonnet.
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
If you leave the ignition turned on for long periods with the engine not running then the coil will overheat yes. Because the power feed is not being switched on and off by the reluctor in the dizzy.
The only thing inside the carb that can cause this problem is a blocked jet or stuck float. There is a little window on the front of the carb, check that the fuel level is sitting halfway up that window. No diaphrams inside, only the two bolted on the left hand side, and even if they were faulty they would not prevent the motor from starting.
I wouldn't reccomend removing the carb unless absolutley nessasery, you would have to change the two gaskets underneath it otherwise you have coolant being sucked into the manifold. I absolutley would not advise that you attempt to dismantle the carb, they are total #######s to assemble and every gasket must be changed.
Again the relays wouldn't cause this because you are getting a spark at the plugs. Are you 150% certain that the leads are pluged into the dissy cap the right way (1,3,4,2 starting from bottom right and going anti-clockwise), and that the coil is not wired the wrong way round?
Have you tried to start the engine with the throttle held to the floor?
The only thing inside the carb that can cause this problem is a blocked jet or stuck float. There is a little window on the front of the carb, check that the fuel level is sitting halfway up that window. No diaphrams inside, only the two bolted on the left hand side, and even if they were faulty they would not prevent the motor from starting.
I wouldn't reccomend removing the carb unless absolutley nessasery, you would have to change the two gaskets underneath it otherwise you have coolant being sucked into the manifold. I absolutley would not advise that you attempt to dismantle the carb, they are total #######s to assemble and every gasket must be changed.
Again the relays wouldn't cause this because you are getting a spark at the plugs. Are you 150% certain that the leads are pluged into the dissy cap the right way (1,3,4,2 starting from bottom right and going anti-clockwise), and that the coil is not wired the wrong way round?
Have you tried to start the engine with the throttle held to the floor?
frank
Club Member
it might be a balast resister type coil ? (9v) do the later k10,s have a balast resistor like the "points/contact breaker" earlier ones ?
porkpie700
Buy & Sell Member
NO, NO, And NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! :laugh:
Hi checked carb window and fuel is nearly at the top, way past halfway mark, so took of carb and float height was 7mm and its supposed to be 14 so way of mark adjusted the float to 14 mm just waiting for gaskets no wonder i was only getting about 30 mpg hopefully thats the problem this is my first micra so gradually learning i say GRADUALLY:laugh: Thanks for all the help guys
It was the problem car goes like a bomb........... It blew up:laugh: Just joking car works fine now starts fine should get better mpg now as well. Had a bit of a headache with the base gasket letting in water into the engine but sorted now thanks for your input everyone, especially you PP7 Cheers(Y)
