Won’t start

Hi
Hopefully someone can help. Please.
my 2005 micra started the power steering issue of working then not etc.
I tried the remove negative battery terminal for one hour to try re set codes.
now the car won’t start.
the car has the key less system with the knob to turn on ignition etc.
I can turn the knob to the final position before starting and everything works all lights up like a Xmas tree.
Windows work all fine.
but it won’t start
Any help would be appreciated

thanks lee.
 
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Hi
We have owned the car since April of this year.
it’s just the dog of the fleet.
supermarket runs/school etc.
I am based in South Yorkshire
The power steering issue was hit and miss.
but now it was on full stop.
hence why I tried the remove negative battery terminal to try reset it.
The issue now is it won’t start.
I think the immobiliser is on stopping the car starting.
I have tried the leave ignition on for a set time then off etc to no avail.
Any help would be grateful.

thanks. Lee.
 
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Hi
Yes tried both remote fobs with new battery’s.
not sure on the battery as of yesterday the car started spot on.
since unplugging it for 1 hour it’s thrown a wobbler.
 

huttojb

Club Member
EPS System Guru
My thought and logic behind this is someone has changed a component without removing the battery during disconnecting and reconnecting the new (secondhand) component. While this may work as soon as you removed the battery and reconnected it started the NATS process and because the component that was replaced wasn’t properly paired with the car it is now saying you cannot start. The eps is the most and common item change so that’s my thoughts on it and why I asked if it’s been changed.
And just a side note, removing the battery and reconnecting will not bring your eps back if it has a latched fault. The eps is an intelligent system with its own memory so it will know it still has a latch fault and continue to be bad.
the only 5 connectors into the eps is battery positive/negative, ignition and CANbus.
I know people on here have said removing the battery has helped but this maybe just coincidence or just talking crap!
jason.
 
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I have attempted the reprogramming of the remotes.
I get as far as the turn ignition 6 times then turn off with key still in ignition.
the hazards flash twice.
when I then press and hold the unlock button to then press lock 3 times, the hazards flash twice as they do when unlocking car.
Once the step is completed by the 3 lock pushes the car does not flash the hazards again like it advises and when turning to the on position they don’t flash
This is on both keys.
now is this something I am doing wrong.
Thanks lee.
 
I have attempted the reprogramming of the remotes.
I get as far as the turn ignition 6 times then turn off with key still in ignition.
the hazards flash twice.
when I then press and hold the unlock button to then press lock 3 times, the hazards flash twice as they do when unlocking car.
Once the step is completed by the 3 lock pushes the car does not flash the hazards again like it advises and when turning to the on position they don’t flash
This is on both keys.
now is this something I am doing wrong.
Thanks lee.


I believe the process in that link is to programme a remote that was already previously paired to the car the and is retained by the car somehow, that scenario would apply to you in normal circumstances. So what I am thinking now is a fuse has blown, have a look here

That diagram may not be the exact same as your model however it should give you some guidance, the fuses in the attached photo should be of interest the most, also in the link.
 

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I have just had a look at the fuses at the battery and under flap side of steering wheel
I can’t see any blown at all
Starting to piss me off this car.
 
Feeling your frustration, next logical step seems to be a diagnostic check, see if there is a fault code, that is the limit of my very limited knowledge, please let us know when (not if) you eventually get it running
 
Normally your current keys cannot be deleted or de-programmed from the car without that being achieved by doing so with the same software that adds or programmes new keys, they are held in non volatile memory in the ECU or BCM so theoretically even though you disconnected the battery for an amount of time they should still be programmed to the car with emphasis on the word theoretically!!!
 
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The keys lock/ unlock the car
The ignition will turn to the last position before the engine will start
It’s just the immobiliser will not allow it to crank over.
I lost as to what to do.
 
As the keys still perform those functions that fits in with what I said above, and as per my suggestion yesterday you've checked those fuses carefully? Blade fuses can often look OK and unless they are inspected meticulously you cannot rule them out, even try substituting the applicable fuse with a pice of suitable gauge piece of wire or another fuse the same amperage to see of the car starts. If it was me I'd be checking the fuses, wipe them over, if the terminals look discoloured give them a scrape with a file, check it with a fuse in another circuit you know that works even, it's a process of elimination, the fuse is there to protect that circuit so always remember to use the correct amperage fuse after testing. If you've got a voltmeter or 12v electrical circuit tester try testing the fuse with the car battery to see if it's completing a circuit, test the socket in the fuse box, one of the terminals should be live with the ignition on or being cranked and the other terminal should have no voltage (because there is no fuse in there to compete the circuit)
 
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I will give it another go.
no very mechanically minded.
so I checked the fuses in the drivers side flap where the obd port is and the small rectangle one in front of battery.
I noticed in the one in front of the battery it had large fuses what looks like multiple sections in it.
Do they just pull out.
don't want any more issues.
Thanks lee.
 
They do just pull out, remember your car is 15 years old so items such as fuses and relays become brittle over time, they are designed to be replaceable but there’s always a chance something may break even on a brand new car. Refer to the diagram above I sent you a few days ago.
 
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