What turbos are you running?
- Thread starter Kris C
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The HKS mani has a t2/t25 flange. which are generally the turbos that people use. Im running a t2 which means im restricted to about 130whp, which is about the limit when it comes to the standard engine anyway.
Info is sketchy because there is no 'set way' of doing it. and most people will spend lots of time making custom parts and getting round problems.
best of luck with it mate, its no small job...
Info is sketchy because there is no 'set way' of doing it. and most people will spend lots of time making custom parts and getting round problems.
best of luck with it mate, its no small job...
an 2554R from sr20det (s14 spec) i think that is the best solution...
it starts from low rpm and keeps its pressure the same also at high rpm...it produces about 13lbr of air that meens at a 0.5 or even better at 0.7 will come the engine
with about 180bhp...at 0.5 its about 140-150 bhp...my suggestion is to try to find pistons before doing anything..the oem conrods can handle that kind of pressure but the piston cant...
it starts from low rpm and keeps its pressure the same also at high rpm...it produces about 13lbr of air that meens at a 0.5 or even better at 0.7 will come the engine
with about 180bhp...at 0.5 its about 140-150 bhp...my suggestion is to try to find pistons before doing anything..the oem conrods can handle that kind of pressure but the piston cant...
gt2560r....
hahahahahahaha
ok i understand false
with the 2560 the turbo spools at very high rpm in compare with the 2554...it looses its "user friendly" character and needs better cams and head to operate well..
with a 2554 its gonna have from 3700rpm full boost and the powerband is almost 3000rpm...thats very good cause the car produces power for much longer rpm's...
Antony
Ex. Club Member
i am using a GT25/28R (T25 exhaust and T28 compressor) with forge actuator running at 5 psi.
noddie (ed) is making me a manifold for it (which i am struggling to pay for as hsbc is rubbish) but as soon as i sort that out its all systems go. just need to get the sills replaced!!
noddie (ed) is making me a manifold for it (which i am struggling to pay for as hsbc is rubbish) but as soon as i sort that out its all systems go. just need to get the sills replaced!!
martinb
Ex. Club Member
You lot are mad running t28's that's what my boss has on his 370hp sr20 s13 drift car!
A bigger turbo doesn't generally mean better, it's down to drivability
I have a t2 on mine as I have a small car with small turbo which is matched
I've been in a swift gti with an s15 t28r at 10 psi on stock c/r and it was sh it ! Nothing.... Nothing .... Nothing Then a 5500 bang is comes in and changing at 7000!!
Noddies is instant as is mine, scopez has the ga16 and is running a Saab 9000 t25 and that works perfectly
Remember unless your running an "adapted" engine your limited to small psi as it is
I'm literally at full boost at 2800 3200, works perfectly!
A bigger turbo doesn't generally mean better, it's down to drivability
I have a t2 on mine as I have a small car with small turbo which is matched
I've been in a swift gti with an s15 t28r at 10 psi on stock c/r and it was sh it ! Nothing.... Nothing .... Nothing Then a 5500 bang is comes in and changing at 7000!!
Noddies is instant as is mine, scopez has the ga16 and is running a Saab 9000 t25 and that works perfectly
Remember unless your running an "adapted" engine your limited to small psi as it is
I'm literally at full boost at 2800 3200, works perfectly!
frank
Club Member
they raise the c/r grevs fwn
cga pistons have a big dish (on the rght) but the ringlands are too weak for boostin tho
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Well, simply slapping on a turbo and expecting it to work is about as daft as the bolt-on brigade who expect things to give lots of power on a stock EMS. A lot of people get boost hungry and slap on a bigger turbo when the standard one doesn't do the job. Meanwhile they think very little about the whole package.
The gt2554r turbo for example is very well suited to a good forged setup on a CG13 or CGA3 engine, however this is pretty subjective, as it depends on what response you want, what torque and power you want etc.
Mart, you will find your turbo is very responsive and perfect for your low boost, stock compression ratio setup. Scopez's K11 is a great selection for a stock comp GA16 and is REALLY driveable. Push your turbo harder and you will soon find it is a restriction and is out of it's optimal operational window......not that you will
hehe
martinb
Ex. Club Member
Exactly low rider, bigger turbo is not always better, majority of forced micras have near standard blocks due to the sheer cost of upgrading internals so small turbo and small boost is what's required
I did think long and hard about what I wanted, what was realistic and what I could afford (very little) and researched stupid amounts until i was happy with my decision.
If I was running something like jim grs Micra (I think) then your right a t2 would become a restriction at higher boost I did notice though I could unbolt the t2 from the exhaust housing and mate a t25 if at a later date I could afford a forged setup
I am still toying with the idea of a spare low mileage auto block with a 2mm headgasket and some mods to lower compression as suggested by Frank to Paul smith. This is however only a thought.
I only have clutch,injectors pump and remap left but seriously strapped for any spare cash to buy anything at mo
Cheers
I did think long and hard about what I wanted, what was realistic and what I could afford (very little) and researched stupid amounts until i was happy with my decision.
If I was running something like jim grs Micra (I think) then your right a t2 would become a restriction at higher boost I did notice though I could unbolt the t2 from the exhaust housing and mate a t25 if at a later date I could afford a forged setup
I am still toying with the idea of a spare low mileage auto block with a 2mm headgasket and some mods to lower compression as suggested by Frank to Paul smith. This is however only a thought.
I only have clutch,injectors pump and remap left but seriously strapped for any spare cash to buy anything at mo
Cheers
they raise the c/r grevs fwn
cga pistons have a big dish (on the rght) but the ringlands are too weak for boostin tho
sorry i meant cg13 pistons in a cg10
I want to say one or two things...
1st ) In my opinion is the worst mistake to use larger (2mm as someone said) headgasket ...sooner or later the engine is gonna have problem with its timing...you see our engines are with timing chain and not with belt...in that order there is major danger the engine to loose the timing...and then our valves are totaled...
2nd)The N/A compresion i can say that works PERFECT without any problems at all...its only 9:1 cr so i cant see the need to lower the compresion...its allready too low for tadays cars...i used the n/a compresion to my engine i dont have any problems until now...to say so...in future i indeent to raise the compresion ratio from the pistons...
1st ) In my opinion is the worst mistake to use larger (2mm as someone said) headgasket ...sooner or later the engine is gonna have problem with its timing...you see our engines are with timing chain and not with belt...in that order there is major danger the engine to loose the timing...and then our valves are totaled...
2nd)The N/A compresion i can say that works PERFECT without any problems at all...its only 9:1 cr so i cant see the need to lower the compresion...its allready too low for tadays cars...i used the n/a compresion to my engine i dont have any problems until now...to say so...in future i indeent to raise the compresion ratio from the pistons...
I will add a few things. Point 2 is pretty subjective and really needs more explanation to elaborate on what 'works PERFECT without any problems' actually means. Information like this could lead to people blowing engines left right and centre.
A standard engine on standard compression will run to a point, but only to a point! This has been proven more times than I can remember and resulted in a large number of engines being blown up as a result. This is due to 2 main factors 1). Taking engine management out of the prespective for a while, people get boost hungry and simply turn up the boost, this either results in 2 failures. Failure 1 is a blown headgasket and Failure 2 is usually blown rings, as the CG series engine's rings are pretty useless for anything more than about 7psi. This is a well known fact from powerman268 from Japan and he's probably turbocharged more K11's in CG13, GA16, SR20DE(T), SR20VE(T) form than anyone I have seen or heard of, also this again has been done plenty of times in the past. They are also pretty useless in N/A form when you are pushing good rpm on a CG long stroke engine but this is another matter entirely.
It is a common misconception that in order to turbocharge an otherwise designed naturally aspirated engine you must first lower the static compression ratio. While this is an obvious choice and does make things very simple, it is not always the case. I will not go into depth regarding static compression ratio as an individual thing, but I will summarise on a significant key point. What people need to get their head around is 'dynamic compression ratio', this is what makes or breaks an engine. Static or dynamic compression ratio is NOT something which should be considered as a single separable factor when building an engine either. Like camshaft choice, headwork, valve sizing, turbocharger size, dynamic compression ratio is a single ingredient and should be considered as part of the WHOLE engine build. This sounds pretty much like common sense but dynamic compression is something which a lot of people overlook and unless an engine is built as a complete system with everything working on a complimentary basis, it will only dissapoint.
Ergo, in summary, if a 9:1 or more correctly 9.5:1 engine were to be built to 'work PERECTLY without any problems' it would need some careful thought if you want it to last and make decent power, (assuming this is what you were referring to Jim). I say this as I have seen you running more and more and more boost over your build progress on otherwise stock cams.
Stani1029
Club Member
I couldnt really give a #### about reliability a few years ago, aslong as the car shifted i was happy. Now ive said this a good 10-20 times on here. My car could have lasted much longer than its longest working period (about 3 1/2 months) if i didnt take it to its top speed so much and for so long. Now who has had the most reliable turbo micra and i dont mean granny driving i mean giving it some proper #### like i did every single time i drove mines and running 20 times down crail each day every 2 weeks
My friend low rider i wrote that before (many months ago i know...but know saw that i had answers... lol ) in order that we have a well forged engine....
with stock internals i am fully deal with you....there is no chance to hold up that kind of boost the stock internals...you are correct 1000%!!!!
that was my mistake...forgot to wrote that the stock cr is good for FORGED internals and metallic head gasket!!!!
as for the camshafts...i have to say that mine arent stock....but i havent athorised from my engineer to anounce anything more
are hand maded here in greece...nothing else...and was working fine...
with stock internals i am fully deal with you....there is no chance to hold up that kind of boost the stock internals...you are correct 1000%!!!!
that was my mistake...forgot to wrote that the stock cr is good for FORGED internals and metallic head gasket!!!!
as for the camshafts...i have to say that mine arent stock....but i havent athorised from my engineer to anounce anything more
are hand maded here in greece...nothing else...and was working fine...
pollyp
Club Member
i'm running a t2/t25 hybrid at 10psi on a stock 1.3 with a long low sparco IC, gtir maf, 200sx 370cc injectors on custom rail, walbro pump, and nistune board mapped by ed.
boost thresholds at 2800rpm.
been to 4 trackdays with the turbo & this stock engine block now and tis fine, no burning oil/coolant and compressions still an even 12bar. just recently resolved cooling issue by upgrading from the paper thin 16mm k11 manual rad with a thicker 25mm k11 auto rad and she went around oulton park few days ago for many laps with no probs at all now
btw i use it going to work daily, go on my mega holiday trips around the uk and the occasional trackdays
boost thresholds at 2800rpm.
been to 4 trackdays with the turbo & this stock engine block now and tis fine, no burning oil/coolant and compressions still an even 12bar. just recently resolved cooling issue by upgrading from the paper thin 16mm k11 manual rad with a thicker 25mm k11 auto rad and she went around oulton park few days ago for many laps with no probs at all now
btw i use it going to work daily, go on my mega holiday trips around the uk and the occasional trackdays
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