what did you do to your micra today ?

Today arrived the black airbag for the 2002 1.4Sport+ red leather steering wheel, also in the pic is a 2002 1.4SE+ grey leather steering wheel and a 2000 JDM Bolero leather/solid wood steering whee and a JDM March AK11 cup holderl! B-)View attachment 49215View attachment 49216View attachment 49217
Loving the center cup holder Andy, I recon these are so much better than the dash pod type everybody raves about ( I have a dash pod in my LX, and they are good if you like your Maccas coke as hot as a cuppa tea )
 
Cheers yorkiesteve,

I have checked all from the pedal back to the rear: taillights/indicators work, switch tested for continuity and is working as expected. I put 12V direct from the battery to the feed from the switch and the brakelights do work.

Trying to work out what is happening has got me really baffled. Following the wire from the pedal switch back to the fusebox, it attaches to an empty fuse slot! I'm pretty sure it wasn't there in the beginning, so how an open circuit can power the lights is one for the experts. Even with a fuse in it, they still don't work as there is no voltage on the other side. Following that supply wire I find it goes to the horn connector. Hmmm. I now have half the dash out and still can't understand what's going on. The Haynes manual diagrams seem different to my '97 Vibe.:confused:
I feel your pain mate, electricals arn't my favourite. I have some factory central locking actuators that I would like to retro fit to my Super S but I carnt seem to figure them out and the wiring doesn't match up to the Haynes wiring diagram ( not sure if they are deadlock type either ) I recently fitted a spoiler to my LX that has an integral brake light and in doing so I discovered that the hatch brake light is separate to the left/right light clusters
 
Loving the center cup holder Andy, I recon these are so much better than the dash pod type everybody raves about ( I have a dash pod in my LX, and they are good if you like your Maccas coke as hot as a cuppa tea )
Hi mate I have a 2003 1.4SE+ which has the cupholders in the door cards which is ok but I wanted the central console cup holder. I already have a JDM double cupholder from a earlier March (which I will use on another project) but wanted the more modern March 2000 to 2002 single one which I think suits the 2nd facelift Micra's better! Will post a pic when I fit it! :)
Cheers
Andy
 
Loving the center cup holder Andy, I recon these are so much better than the dash pod type everybody raves about ( I have a dash pod in my LX, and they are good if you like your Maccas coke as hot as a cuppa tea )
Hi mate I have a 2003 1.4SE+ which has the cupholders in the door cards which is ok but I wanted the central console cup holder. I already have a JDM double cupholder from a earlier March (which I will use on another project) but wanted the more modern March 2000 to 2002 single one which I think suits the 2nd facelift Micra's better! Will post a pic when I fit it! :)
Cheers
Andy

Have to agree, I've got both the dash pod and gear stick cup holder, whilst the dash pod is handy for long journeys leave anything in it and it'll boil
 
Oil change today...

Of course I didn't buy an oil filter removal tool so was under the car heaving and some lady decided to almost reverse over my legs (apartment only has on road parking), so when I shrieked I gouged out my forehead on the bottom of the sump. Comedy of errors...

Also why is Halfords so ****ing expensive
 

MaxK11C

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I need some help.
I want to put a 4-2-1 manifold on the March, but the one i've got sits like this.
13310603_968958129915040_8698583732311019960_n.jpg


It goes down, into a straight piece of pipe. The issue is, the mid section i have, is for a stock mani, and won't fit. Can I get a better manifold, that'll bolt up to that mid section? It's aftermarket but I don't know what brand.
13321855_968958176581702_8105244746766065671_n.jpg
 

h701micra

Deactivated Account
I need some help.
I want to put a 4-2-1 manifold on the March, but the one i've got sits like this. View attachment 49255

It goes down, into a straight piece of pipe. The issue is, the mid section i have, is for a stock mani, and won't fit. Can I get a better manifold, that'll bolt up to that mid section? It's aftermarket but I don't know what brand.
View attachment 49256
They usually have a follow on pipe that joins to next available join in the oe exhaust
 

h701micra

Deactivated Account
Sorry, I don't understand. Could you explain that please?
There's generally an extra pipe that comes with a manifold that joins to the original on the next split

For example a K10 exhaust splits cin the middle. So you buy a 421 and it will come with the next section of pipework to join to where it next splits, because you have to remove the now defunct front part.

For you, you'll either need that extra tube, or create your own :)
 

MaxK11C

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There's generally an extra pipe that comes with a manifold that joins to the original on the next split

For example a K10 exhaust splits cin the middle. So you buy a 421 and it will come with the next section of pipework to join to where it next splits, because you have to remove the now defunct front part.

For you, you'll either need that extra tube, or create your own :)
My mid section is one piece, right to the back box.
And that's all I got with that manifold
 
Polished it.
8f8qkai.jpg


Every time I dive down to France (maybe twice every 3 months) my front bumper gets a bit more custom. I ran over a burning tyre (It was either that or a giant skip bin, thanks ****ing protesters) and now it's falling off.

OnklfSA.jpg


Dunno if I fix the clips with this one or if I buy a foglight bar... I mean a foglight bar would be cool, but it's also going to get scratched and bumped to **** like this one...

I have no idea how to make the pictures work , the work find on the preview bit :\
 
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SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Set-up the new driveshafts with competition spec CV grease, such a difference in grease compared to the normal stuff in the shafts as they came new.
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
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Started replacing all the roll cage fasteners for 12.9 SHC and finally got round to installing the door bars while I was at it.
 

h701micra

Deactivated Account
My mid section is one piece, right to the back box.
And that's all I got with that manifold
Sorry I didn't reply, basically what Alex said
Basically Max, your fooked

You'll need a custom peice of pipe to mate it all together as with most 421 manifolds

Easiest way would be to put the 421 on and mark where the exhaust needs to come to and chop it off. Add 2 flanges. 1 on exhaust. 1 on manifold and bolt together
Unless you can make the taper work
 

MaxK11C

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Sorry I didn't reply, basically what Alex said


Easiest way would be to put the 421 on and mark where the exhaust needs to come to and chop it off. Add 2 flanges. 1 on exhaust. 1 on manifold and bolt together
Unless you can make the taper work
Thanks for the reply. I've got it booked in at my friends shop, he's going to weld me a custom join section! :)
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Fitted and swapped around 8 tyres, and sold another 13. Which gives me just enough room in the tyre shed for all 66 tyres we currently have.
 

wehey

Ex. Club Member
Sounds like an internal problem, probably a spring gone, a few on here have had that. Unlucky mate.

10/10 mate.
Yep the spring housing had cracked and released on me of the springs which jammed behind the pressure plate springs.
You can also see arrowed where the housing is starting to crack on one of the other areas

I'm a bit bummed over this as I went for a LUK clutch kit as I thought they were good quality. As you can see the clutch has hardly any wear and has less than 4K miles on it.

Quick question: If I were to buy just a new clutch plate from a different manufacturers, would I work with my existing pressure plate?
 

h701micra

Deactivated Account
Technical engine question open to all

TORQUE does it matter?

Background info:
According to the Internet (clio owners group) pointing out that peak hp willy waving without mentioning torque made them the usual Facebook racers. The response was that I didn't understand the relationship between HP and Torque.
Apparently torque is irrelevant
I disagreed and again I was told I don't understand

So maybe they know something I don't. I'm skeptical as I believe torque plays a big part in performance

So as above does Torque matter?
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Technical engine question open to all

TORQUE does it matter?

Background info:
According to the Internet (clio owners group) pointing out that peak hp willy waving without mentioning torque made them the usual Facebook racers. The response was that I didn't understand the relationship between HP and Torque.
Apparently torque is irrelevant
I disagreed and again I was told I don't understand

So maybe they know something I don't. I'm skeptical as I believe torque plays a big part in performance

So as above does Torque matter?

In a word yes, does HP matter ? No.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
10/10 mate.
Yep the spring housing had cracked and released on me of the springs which jammed behind the pressure plate springs.
You can also see arrowed where the housing is starting to crack on one of the other areas

I'm a bit bummed over this as I went for a LUK clutch kit as I thought they were good quality. As you can see the clutch has hardly any wear and has less than 4K miles on it.

Quick question: If I were to buy just a new clutch plate from a different manufacturers, would I work with my existing pressure plate?

What power are you running to do that, or has the clutch been abused?
 

wehey

Ex. Club Member
What power are you running to do that, or has the clutch been abused?
It's all stock Matt, except for a Frank Mani.
The clutch has been well cared for. Im a 44 year old git with a lot of mechanical sympathy. I never hammer my cars as I like them to last.
 
It's all stock Matt, except for a Frank Mani.
The clutch has been well cared for. Im a 44 year old git with a lot of mechanical sympathy. I never hammer my cars as I like them to last.

I have an LUK clutch kit in mine, And I don't have the lightest of right foots, I've done about 8K on mine so far and its fine, It could have just been a faulty one, My dad used to be a taxi driver and when he had clutches done he always had LUK clutches
 
It's all stock Matt, except for a Frank Mani.
The clutch has been well cared for. Im a 44 year old git with a lot of mechanical sympathy. I never hammer my cars as I like them to last.

I can't comment on LUK kits because I have never used one, but I hammer my car everywhere (It gets used on the morning commute and lots, and lots of highway onramps), Nissan OEM in mine is the only way to go, 10k miles now, no issues (Not that there should have been)
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Removed more weight with the hole saw (344g) and seam welded up bits of the rear end which were showing signs of movement.... Oh sweated like a pig in the process...
 

Antony

Ex. Club Member
Technical engine question open to all

TORQUE does it matter?

Background info:
According to the Internet (clio owners group) pointing out that peak hp willy waving without mentioning torque made them the usual Facebook racers. The response was that I didn't understand the relationship between HP and Torque.
Apparently torque is irrelevant
I disagreed and again I was told I don't understand

So maybe they know something I don't. I'm skeptical as I believe torque plays a big part in performance

So as above does Torque matter?
Torque is moving force.

Hp is torque over time.

Hp is not a force but a resultant from torque.

Clio knobs know nothing.

High hp bike engines have very little torque. Which is why they are no good to use in heavy cars.

High torque v8s are very good at moving and accelerating heavy vehicles... high hp numbers are simply a by product of a large engine.

Basically.....
Hp = top speed.
Torque = acceleration.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
I agree torque is more important to drivability, the thing that brought it home was when I compared my Sprinter van at 130hp and my mini at approx 90-100hp, yet the Sprinter weighs almost 4 times as much as the mini and can tow a trailer with the mini on it... (ok it's not as fast but...)

The difference is the Sprinter has some really chunky and consistent torque through the rev range.

You'll only feel peak hp once per gear change IF you hold the revs that high (most won't I'd suggest) where a nice flat torque curve will be felt throughout the rev range.
 
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